A small group of Ginners enjoyed an excellent lunch at the Café du Raisin in Begnins on Wednesday 8 October, preceded by a walk through the charming vineyards surrounding the village. The view of the Vaud countryside and the lake was very good; unfortunately, the Alps were covered.
From left to right in the photo – Robert (O’Riordan), Rudolf (Staehelin accompanied by Daisy in the foreground), Bob Rankin (on his first outing as a new member), Jeff (Crudgington), Mark (Warren) and Gerry (Swart).
Local boy Al (Peters) and Norman (Eatough: he made it all the way from Thoiry) joined the group for lunch.
Into October and still the weather forecast was indicating a sunny day. However, we hadn’t prepared ourselves fully for the chill of the morning which carried on throughout the day. Seven GIN Bikers met at the Everness at 09.30h, some wearing shorts and some having changed to their winter wardrobe ith long leggings. The starting team were:
Mervyn Mark2Ts (back after many absences) PeterD (back after some absences) PeterT (back) e-Paul e-Philip Stephen (Bike Leader)
Paul arrived last having been contemplating the wasted fruit on the ground in the neighbouring orchards…..seemingly good fruit but for some reason left to recycle into the ground. His panier basket seemed fuller than usual.
At this stage in the biking season, muscles should be fully formed and lungs ready for the more strenuous rides. E-bikers circumnavigate this need and can perform at all times but the purists can be caught short if they haven’t been active on a regular basis. The BL had chosen a route to test physical condition… the famous 3 hills circuit of Bonmont, Mourex and Vesancy.
“Cycle gently towards the Bonmont climb. Warm up with the climb up to 727m. Down to Crassier and a coffee. Along the old train track, through Divonne and onto the Mourex hill test. Down and then up to Vesancy. Down to the Accor Parfait for lunch. Home after lunch.” Compromise was made in the shape of a coffee break after the Bonmont hill and serious calorific restocking at lunch.
We set off in the now usual circuitous route towards the first hill, passing a fellow GIN member, Martin Vaughan, walking his dog, Terence. Martin declined the offer of joining the group blaming an ageing bike with a puncture in his shed.
PeterD commented at one stage that the route to the base of the Jura was a little too wayward….but he hadn’t been on the previous outing to make a balanced judgement. The group spread out considerably even in this warm up period and it became obvious who had not been exercising regularly and/or had older equipment. The potential to switch to e-bikes was discussed again but there are some stubborn classical cyclist in the group and they do not want to be seen to crack first. PeterT set off at pace up the Bonmont hill, anxious to dispel the demons of the previous ride. The rest followed with the e-bikers looking decidedly more relaxed and the BL doing somewhat of a corralling role to ensure no-one was left behind. At the 727m junction, the wait for the usual photo seemed prolonged as the backMarker was running on low Wattage. The photo was taken with the potential opportunity to photoshop in any missing member later and then the congregated group departed downhill, eager to get a warming coffee in Crassier.
Time and tide wait for no backmarker
The BL, feeling the responsibility associated with his position, backtracked to ensure that the missing biker was still pedalling uphill…which he was only a couple of hundred metres down the road. The summit attained Mark and Stephen sped down appreciating anew the chill of the day and the impact of wind chill. They arrived at the coffee stop in time to add their order to the open bill, which PeterT kindly settled, adding in some patisserie as well as a bar of house made chocolate.
Happy BL but doubtful GIN Bikers….where are we going next?
At this stage it became apparent that the group was going to fracture. PeterT was called away due an unwell Jill and Kobie, who was in need of his daily part-Everest ascent. Philip had earlier mentioned that he would not be able to complete the circuit as he had to get home for other commitments. Mark part-accompanied Philip on his way before finding an easier route to lunch, avoiding two thirds of the hills on the planned itinerary. The remaining 4 of us manfully adhered to the predetermined route and enjoyed (?) the challenge of the Mourex uphill slog followed by the lesser Vesancy climb. Even e-Paul found that he had to work hard….maybe a case of too many apples in his bag? However, we all made it, age and fitness levels deferring to sheer will-power.
The downhill from Vesancy in the direction of Divonne, via the hamlet of Saint Gix, was a joy apart from that persistent chill factor and we got to the Accord Parfait in good time to have a round of drinks before Mark joined us. Except Mervyn, who decided on the excellent maigret de canard, the rest of us opted for the three course 19 Euro menu, although Paul would have had the copious spare ribs had they not been out of stock. As indicated earlier, the three menu courses were plentiful: pâté en croute with salade, cheeseburger and fries, and an interesting desert of chocolate sauce with mint ice-cream and a thick layer of whipped cream (for those who could manage this). Paul’s often fruitless request for “super croustillant” fries was met on the second attempt as a fresh bowl of indeed crispy chips was supplied without argument by our friendly waiter.
Refreshed, vitalled and warmed we wrapped up again for the quick descent through Divonne and to our respective homes. Such was the eagerness to get to that siesta that the farewell formalities were dispensed with and we peeled off at our individual appropriate points. Overall ca. 50km and 750m ascent with quite large variations depending upon the individual.
I understand that I’ve become a bit of a celebrity amongst the GIN hiking and snowshoeing community and there have been requests to document my life over the past five years or so.
Well, I originally was a receptacle made of plastic containing 50cl of Johnny Walker Black Label 12 years old whisky, but these are distant memories. Since then I’ve had to suffer hot sun, freezing temperatures, wind, rain and snow in the side pocket of my owner’s rucksack with no consideration for my comfort. I’ve been out on many hikes and snowshoe outings and much to my chagrin, my contents have not always been appreciated or needed. Sometimes, the GINtlemen drink lots of wine from my glass cousins, so they’ve had enough alcohol by the time my contents are offered. I’ve been pulled out on the top of mountains, and in woods and refuges, and been drunk from shot cups, fellow plastic glasses, wine glasses and coffee cups. Some of the drinks I’ve contained have been a bit strong and apparently, some have been downright awful. Often noses have been turned up – you know who you are! However, some have gone down very nicely, thank you, and I’ve had some pleasant compliments.
There’s been a wide variety of drinks poured into and out of me and all have been recorded on cheap labels stuck on to my sides. I actually feel overdressed and as there’s hardly any room for more, I’m wondering if I will soon be consigned to those muddy and snowy trails in the sky.
So before that happens, here’s a list of the concoctions I’ve had to suffer over the years, in no particular order:
A hike organiser needs to keep a close eye on weather conditions. So it was with some apprehension when the late summer from the previous week turned into a forecast for early winter with heavy rain and potential for snow for a planned 2 day hike in Barme. So much had been promised by the organiser in terms of stunning scenery only available in fine weather. 12 enthusiastic participants had responded to an early call with happy memories of the Tour of the Muverans and the Tour of the Dents du Midi still in mind. When one potential participant, with a Philippines’ warm weather habit, literally got cold feet, it was an indication that the rest of the group would have to be consulted to check on their resolve. Happily, the first response from a member (one happy to frolic in the snow) set the tone and suggested that this GIN group is more than used to adversity. After this, no-one else dared back out and the organiser had shared the weight of decision-making responsibility.
Backpacks were loaded with wet weather gear and layers of warm clothing (and in some cases copious supplies for canine friends) and then covered with waterproof membranes. The journey from respective homes to the Grand Paradis parking meeting place in the Portes du Soleil at the far end of the valley from Champéry was mostly smooth. The 11 eager participants arrived on time and were soon talking about the sole hiker who had decided that the best waterproofing was bare legs…. well, the Scots do have experience in this domain. The party consisted of Mark2Rs, Mervyn, MikeH + Rocco, MikeM + Nessie, Nathan, PeterS, PeterT + Kobie, Ralph, RichardS, Rob and Stephen (leader). As was commented, mad dogs and Englishmen were certainly present on this occasion as well as a representative sample of other nationalities with similar tendencies.
All present and correct. The team sets off.
The dogs set off excitedly, happy to also be part of this adventure, and the group followed in a more measured manner. There was a request for a coffee stop but unfortunately the one suitable restaurant had decided to take a few days off. So, we started the initial climb, past the closed restaurant and up towards the threatening sky and our luncheon spot. The rain held back and as those aging bodies warmed up there was perhaps a greater understanding of a choice of shorts. We started to find our rhythm with a group of usual front runners and backmarkers and those happy to be in the middle or alternating between positions. Plenty of time had been allotted for this shortish but steep ca. 500m climb to the Refuge de Bonavau at 1552m.
On the way up. No rain and warm….maybe the Scotsman has got it right
Nathan, with his dedicated trek tracker, is a dangerous companion to a hike organiser as he always seems to know in advance the exact location, elevation, steepness of climb/descent, etc. so it’s impossible to suggest any route is less arduous than reality. We arrived in good time at the refuge just as the rain started to fall and we installed ourselves in the dry as the only customers of the day. The refuge has checked the day before that we really would be coming as all their other reservations, including the overnight stays, had cancelled due to the weather forecast.
Good spirits and good beer.
Plenty of banter over lunch and memories of the first day of the Tour des Dents du Midi hike which had passed very close to here (but without lunch….a story often brought up to try, unsuccessfully, to embarrass Mervyn, the organiser of that great outing). The mountain fare was good with mostly a selection of croûtes and omelettes chosen, washed down with sufficient beer but leaving room for the tarte aux myrtilles before coffees. The dogs too had their nutrition, Kobie only being satisfied when the 80CHF bag of mega-chews was eventually opened. Unfortunately, we did have to leave this warm cocoon and venture out into the cold and now increasingly wet world. However, it appeared that all was not well with Rocco and his concerned owner, Mike, who felt that there was canine over-excitement. He took the difficult decision to head back down to Grand Paradis and onto St. Luc, a day earlier than initially planned.
After lunch outlook was not so promising.
By chance, Mike missed the wettest, muddiest, slipperiest, and overall not a very pleasant climb up to the col at 1793m and then sliding downhill to Barme. Normally this is a short and scenic walk but in these conditions, with little visibility and heavy rain, it seemed unusually long….atlhough Rob did claim to like these familiar conditions. However, expectations had been set for the rest of the hike…..Day 2 must be better, mustn’t it?
A pause at the high point before descent into Barme
The Cantine de Barmaz was welcoming, serving us hot drinks on arrival as we shed wet clothing and recovered from the afternoon’s exertions. The owner/waiter didn’t seem over stressed as we were the only customers (although another couple appeared for the evening meal…..from where and to where we do not know).
A warm, dry haven at last.
Out of the rain….time for a warm drink and relaxation
Feeling slightly less damp we moved operations to the bedrooms where the only predetermined arrangements were for the dogs and their owners, one individual room and one agreed double room. The rest of us looked around and hoped that we had chosen room mates with no unpleasant nocturnal habits. From the discussion the following morning it seems that we mostly succeeded. The rooms were compact, especially for PeterT and MikeM who had to share their accommodation with Kobie (no need to mention Nessie as she seemed to slot in unnoticed anywhere). There was a relief that MikeH and Rocco didn’t have to share this room as the owner was adamant that there could only be one room with dogs.
Dog tired …..but where do Peter and Mike sleep?
The bathroom facilities were also interesting with two closed showers , three basins and one open toilet all within a confined area. Happily, we discovered much more private toilets downstairs for the more meaningful visits.
After a change of clothes and a time for general relaxation, we congregated for the apéros before making our meal choices. With a room to ourselves, equipped with a stove, we soon were enjoying the warmth and letting the afternoon conditions recede into the distant memory (some poetic licence here). Were we all game for the game on the menu, especially when we were told by the owner that this was local. Wines were not quite so local but came from Saillon, just a little further down the Valais. Since MikeH had made a generous parting gesture of offering us some drinks, we decided to opt for one of the better bottles on the list to toast our friendship at his expense. It was very drinkable and, unfortunately, set the standard for the other bottles consumed, much to the concern of the leader/accountant. In fact, we didn’t hold back in this convivial atmosphere and enjoyed not only ample good wine but also copious helpings of cerf and/or sanglier in rack, medaillon or entrecote form with all the trimmings, without forgetting starters and desserts. Such were the helpings that Kobie benefitted from a large meal of left-overs the following morning….a veritable doggie bag. By the time we were at the coffee stage several were mellow enough to be persuaded to have a glass of the homemade pine liqueur. Sadly, the accountant was also mellow enough to allow this. Added to crème brulée in small quantities this liqueur was truly excellent but in pure form it transformed to a green sludge with a very unpleasant aftertaste, rivalling the worst of Richard’s flask offerings. Amazingly, Mervyn and PeterT seemed immune to these flavours (aftermath of COVID?) and were happy to help out those with more sensitive palates. Even they could not finish all 7 glasses.
A great choice of chasse and wine. No prices on the latter…..
Game for this plate of food.
Happiness is a warm room, warm food and warm company
To rival any of Richard’s
Replete and tired from the day’s efforts, people started drifting off to bed at an unusually early hour, leaving a hard core to have a final rinsing beer and to listen to the calls of amorous wild animals across the valley, mingled with the bells from more domesticated animals. The night passed without major incident, no loud snores or rampant dogs, just the frequent creak of old doors as aging men needed to make use of the open plan bathroom. The dog room had the worst of this as the only place for Kobie was in front of the door, causing a large obstacle for exit. Ironically, on an informal count the following morning, the human content of this room claimed the maximum number of nocturnal reliefs.
Is that sunshine behind us?
A new day dawned……and it was still raining. However, there seemed to be better visibility at times. MeteoSuisse promised a drier day from 09.30h until 16h, almost perfect for the planned walk. So we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and repacked our backpacks ready for the rain to stop….which it did but visibility was still poor. Backpacks were left at the Cantine as we would be passing by again on our final way down and could pick them up them. The walk up from the Cantine to the end of the Barme valley can be spectacular under good conditions. We had tantalising glimpses between rising and falling cloud and started to gain an appreciation of our location. New snow on the peaks added an additional quality to those ethereal glimpses. We even managed to see some chamois high up on the hill, which Kobie felt obliged to get closer to. By the time we reached the end of the valley, we had a fairly good view of the impressive Dents Blanches and, looking back, the Dents de Midi were also making a partial appearance.
Majestic Dents du Midi
We met your cousins last night….
Richard, Mark and MikeM decided against a longer uphill loop to see the bird station at the Col de Bretolet. This added an extra 3-4 kms to the circuit. Instead, they took the ridge walk back towards the lunchtime Cantine des Dents Blanches at a leisurely pace (allowing time to find a wayward Nessie on a couple of occasions) and secured our table in the near empty restaurant. The rest of us made the detour. This involved a steep up and as we climbed the visibility reduced. At the top, on the ridge, we had zero view to our left and to our right and it started to snow. Not ideal conditions for seeing birds.
Up into the cloud and the bird ringing station
As we began the tranverse across to the bird ringing station, there was a hint of movement in the cloud cover. As we arrived, there was a biblical moment as the clouds parted and showed the Dents Blanches appeared in all their glory. Magnificent.
Rock and awe
The Lead Ringer, one of the two paid employees at this Swiss Ornithological Institute station along with several volunteers, gave us a fascinating description of their work and trends in migration. Over 10000 birds are ringed annually between April and October, at least half of them being chaffinches (what is a chaffinch in French?). Migration trends clearly indicate errors in President Trump’s theories on (or lack of) climate change. As we were listening we had a fly past of a bearded vulture and a griffin vulture. PeterS was able to make an internation connection with ornithological activities in South Africa. Interestingly, the work of this ringing station is not advertised strongly in Switzerland since there is a body of people who are not in favour of the stress to the birds despite the information and understanding this generates.
After three isolated months here he’ll even talk to the GIN Group
We retraced our steps enjoying the view and the autumnal colours of the azaleas and myrtille plants on the hillside. Amazingly, there were plentiful berries still on the plants….if only we had picked up that myrtille comb from the Cantine. Back on the ridge, the clouds were clearing from the Portes du Soleil side and we had a good view of the new border house at the Col de Cou. Due to the time, we headed straight down and along the ridge that the alternative party had walked earlier. The views on both sides were great, enhanced in some ways by the still swirling cloud and the uncertainty of how long we would have them. The snow had stopped and it was not as muddy underfoot as the day before. We made good time despite a seemingly endless zig-zag descent through the woods along the chemin “Nature”.
We arrived at the restaurant only about 15 minutes after the reservation and reunited with the rest of the group. There was another opportunity to sample local game but for some reason we all thought that would be an over-kill. Instead, the more modest ordered salade de chevre chaud and the more gourmand went for the croute and risotto options. Some people still had room for dessert and a chance to sample another tarte aux myrtilles. The food was excellent and we marvelled how two restaurants in a small hamlet could have such good kitchens. The famous flask at last made an appearance and several sampled it’s syrupy delights. If only we had known the night before…..
Appetit refreshed. Ready for more game?
A healthy salad is a sensible choice
After lunch we recovered our backpacks and headed the direct route home. A descent of ca. 500m over 3-4km, i.e .very steep in parts. However, this was a good quality gravel track and the rain was not due until 16h. At the bottom, we passed again the closed restaurant. Although part of the initial plan to stop here, this closure was a blessing as the budget had already been blown from the excesses of the night before and the rain was starting, very much on cue. We were keen to get back to the cars. Discrete top up contributions were made to the grateful accountant, so that the books balanced.
Farewells were exchanged and we all returned back to our homes with warm memories of another memorable GIN hike. GIN really is a great organisation….friendship, exercise, tolerance and a lot of fun, despite frequent discussion over aches and pains.
Bloggers note: Many thanks for all your photographic contributions. It was not possible to use them all! I’ve chosen a representative sample without reference to who took the photo
The biking gods offered us an autumnal day with blue skies, perfect temperature and clear views. What more could be done to entice out any reticent bikers? In the event 7 of us signed up for the ride with Mike H happy to join for the lunch, if not repeat his one and only earlier group participation some years ago.
Stephen (BL) PeterT e-Paul e-Thatcher “first outing” Pete (great to have a new member!) Mervyn e-Philip
Once again the e-bikers are making inroads in the group. Pete look resplendent in his aged but appropriate cycling gear and, as we found out during the day, he is not a novice for those inclines. The performance statistics of the group has gone up by a few points. Mervyn had just returned from some days in Provence trying out e-bikes with his alternative biking group. Peter, waiting for either Mervyn or Mark2Ws to crack in terms of a switch to electric power, felt some optimism that this event is getting closer. Mervyn explained the problems of power anxiety and the weight of an e-bike without electric motor assistance. Peter’s wait continues.
The leader had promised: “The usual mixture of up, down and refreshment points. Lunch at the Auberge Communale de Gilly, which has been advertising a menu AVS for 25 CHF for 3 courses and a glass of wine….sounds too good to be true! So the plan is to meet at 09.30 at the Everness Hotel and drift down by a circuitous route to the lake road by the tennis club, a little flat cycling before starting the climb through Prangins, Trelex up to Givrins for our usual coffee spot. From there we rely upon the caffeine to get us up past the Clinic in Genolier to Le Muids, on to Bassins and Le Vaud before descending to Gilly for lunch. After lunch a slightly longer ride than customary, but mostly flat, return to our respective homes.”
The fresh and eager starting group
We met on time at the Everness. Philip had to start earlier than anticipated due to a faulty fixture to carry his bike on the car and so he cycled the 19km to the start point. However, he already felt that the full circuit would be too much for him (power or condition anxiety?). Stephen started off the “circuitous” route to the lake road by heading in the opposite direction to the intuitive one. Peter keenly took on the theme and led us a much more devious route than originally planned but with the advantage that we could all view his house in the distance. Stephen redirected the group onto the lake road.
It’s been a while since the group tackled the path up from the lake road through Prangins, Changins, up to Trelex and then the last hard push to the path joining Gingins to Givrins (and coffee). It is quite a demand for an AVS lunch group and it took it’s toll. Along the way, even e-biker Paul was seen doing arm exercises in transit as his grip on the handlebars had obviously caused muscle fatigue. Peter said that he would stop at Givrins, saying he was done for and blaming a hard uphill walk the previous day with Kobie (isn’t that usual?). Co-incidentally, Peter’s wife passed in the car with Kobie on route for a tamer walk. Philip confirmed that he too would head home after coffee, his residual power rating lower than other e-bikers. The rest of us looked shaken but not broken although apprehensive of the hard part of the ride after coffee.
Happiness is a coffee stop….
The Givrins coffee shop always does us well and we enjoyed the refreshments and rest in the sunshine. Philip studied the map for the way home whilst Peter seemed to be wavering, although the final decision to go on or not would have to wait until Genolier. We said farewell to Philip and the remaining 6 of us cycled on to Genolier. 5 of us arrived there and waited for the unusual back marker, Peter. Bets were made and we felt sure that he would take the downhill route. However, manly resolved overcame the easier option and, without missing a rotation of the pedals, he cycled past us and up the hill towards the clinic. Actually, that unstoppable determination continued all the way until we eventually caught up with him again in Le Vaud at the highest point of the day. The rest of us took frequent rests to allow recovery at various points on this long uphill slog. By another co-incidence, Stephen’s wife passed us in the car just before the clinic. Now one wife is a low probability but two?….where was our resident mathematician when we needed the odds to be calculated?
Le Vaud, 815m elevation. Uphill over, time to recharge the batteries.
The reward awaited. Not only the economical AVS lunch in Gilly but the long downhill sweep to get there. This was glorious with spectacular views of Lac Leman and the Alps as we (mostly) free-wheeled the long descent to lunch.
On the way down…..lunch bells ringing!
The ache of the climb was forgotten and we settled to the first beer of the day at our table on the terrace. Mike’s arrival was not up to Swiss timeliness but we respectfully waited until we were all present before ordering the food. Unfortunately, the consequence (in reality due to fact that we had booked at 13h and not 12h) was that the meat option on the menu had already been depleted. However, the alternatives of salmon or pasta, following either soup or salad was more that acceptable. Our “free” glass of chasselas was poured and more beers ordered as required and the table revived with lively conversation. This was meaty discussion ….maybe spurred on by the lack of physical meat or maybe due the presence of a non-biker who has spent too long with just a dog for company. We covered topics including the referendum on rental values of property and whether we should take a personal of “for the benefit of the greater good” positions. Somehow the later was contorted to fall in line with the former. Inheritance tax in the UK came under scrutiny as well as tax generation in a broader sense for desperate governments. We also had a lightning update on Thatcher’s explosive home electronics. Desserts and coffee were ordered and despite the attraction of a longer stay, we realised that there was a way to go home and siestas cannot wait until dinner time.
No meat but the beer option is still available….
Although the ride from Gilly is flat or on average slightly downhill it always feels a long way, which is true. The lack of blood circulation to the legs after lunch hampers easy progress. Thatcher and Paul left us just outside DuillIer to make their own way back. The remaining 4 of us cycled the paths through Asse, Signy and Borex until Arnex was in sight. Offers of a refreshment stop in Arnex were declined and the remaining 3 headed as directly as they could to their home armchairs.
Electronic measurements differed slightly but, taking the higher values, we covered 66kms and ca. 800m ascent. A great day’s outing in ideal conditions.
We were a football team – 11 people – setting off this morning at the “Ecuries du Bois Clos” in Grilly in the “Pays de Gex”. It was a glorious, sunny day – with clear skies illuminating the lush green fields and horses grazing peacefully between the Jura and the Alps.
Our journey first led us to the Bridge of Grilly (see photo) – on the border between France and Switzerland. Just over the border we observed the early stages of the land fill operation. This project has attracted significant criticism, and, as of our visit, the final decision regarding its future had not yet been reached.
We continued along our route to the Mill of Grilly (see photo), a charming spot situated beside the Divonne/Versoix river. The walk was both refreshing and scenic, allowing us to take in the natural beauty of the area.
Our excursion concluded at the “Taverne des Ecuries”, where we sat outside under the high roof, shielded from the sun (see photo), and enjoyed a delicious meal. For many of us, the highlight was finishing with a classic Tarte Tatin.
We walked almost 6km – with an estimated 40m height difference.
Our participants were: Brian Allardyce, John Broadbridge, John Burly, Philip Jenkins, Mike Miller, Robert O’Riordan, Thatcher Shellaby, Paul Sochaczewski, Rudolph Staehelin, and Mark Warren.
Rob’s kingdom lies North of the Col de Marchairuz, while MikeH claims the South. Rob’s note went out :-
“For the upcoming hike I propose that we hike from Col Du Marchairuz to the Alpage Du Mont Tendre. The plan is we start at the Col at 9:30 am and take an alternative route up to the Alpage, with a return by the usual route.
The Col to Alpage route is 10.4 km, 465m denivelation and takes approx. 3hrs
Return to Col is 8.3km, with 300m denivelation and will take approx. 2hrs 30min mostly downhill.
I will arrange a booking at the Buvette for lunch.
The proposed mapped routes are attached.”
Outward RouteReturn Route
There were quite a number of apologies, some of which were apparently accepted. In the end seven and a dog arrived at the Col du Marchairuz at 9.30am on a cool and breezy morning. I entered the restaurant with Kobie who grew immediately very excited at seeing Rob, RichardS, Ralph, Rudi, Nathan and David, quietly enjoying a coffee. So excited that I had to take him out straight away without even checking to see if a new parrot had been installed.
Luckily I had an iced coffee in my car, so we were all soon caffeined-up and ready to go for this mammoth outing.
Rob last led this hike on 25 May 2023 when the following attended : – Peter D, Mervyn P, Andrew N, David C, Mike M, Mark Warren, Richard S, Richard W, Ralph and Robert P.
Lunch 25 May 2023
Re-reading Rob’s blog of that outing it seemed that he found it a bit difficult to keep the team together. There was to be no such replay today, well almost.
As can be seen from the first map above, the outrun involved one of Rob’s long shortcuts. Sadly loggers were in place so we had to slighly shorten the shortcut, but only by a bit.
The team, kitted out for the cool breeze. See below for an explanation of Rob’s thermal gear.
Happily the wind was behind us and we sailed along in intermittent sunshine.
Spring (well almost) in the air and in our steps
It was not long before we attracted some doggerel companions.
Kobie found 3 chums; it took some effort to discourage them from joining us
Just before Cunay, Nathan decided on a shorter shortcut and we found ourselves on very steep ground attempting to reach the main ridge.
Steeply up to regain the trail
By this time it was becoming clear that we were entering the cloud base, with some moisture and a chilling breeze.
At least the wind was in our sailsRob leads on, happy to be on the right track againLooking back as we approached Mt TendreLooking back into the wind from Mt Tendre summit. See below for how this view changed
We finally knocked the 1679m b—–rd off so it was time for some summit apèro – Chilean Cabernet Blend, el Parron, with some healthy nibbles.
Summit pre-loadingTime for lunch – off down to the Alpage
We were soon ensconced inside the Alpage at a reserved table, with room for Kobie by the door, beers were ordered and very welcome Old Boxer arrived.
King Rob holds courtAwaiting BoxerWhich soon arrived – and it was good
The croute was of the best
A very enjoyable lunch with much banter. Some politics, not much about Scotland. We solved a few of the world’s problems though. And Kobie at least had behaved acceptably well (I believe).
On exiting we found that the weather had changed – for the better
Time to face the wind, but happily the sun had come out and the wind seemed less cold.
Summit on the return. Kobie seeks and gets attention from admirersA much improved prospect from the summit
The way back is “mostly downhill” according to Rob (see above). It does not always feel that way, still another 300m up to go. But we were well fortified and somehow I had avoided the Saynor potion bottle. And the sun was nice.
Full team on summit
For those of you who have done this it is indeed a long way back and we strode on with fortitude.
Very pleasant strolling home. Its a long way though.Therapy dog given therapy at a rest stopMe and imLooking back down an up bit – but only 20m
The trail goes on and on, but after 8.3km we finally made it.
Finally at the cars
I think we were too tired for final refreshments at Marchairuz, so we simply said our farewells and left.
Before finishing I promised an insight into Rob’s thermal protection, allowing him comfortably to wear shorts in cold and windy weather.
Natural Scottish protection for Kilt wearers
A super day out 18.5km and 750m. A fine lunch and great company. One of our longer and more challenging outings. Well done to those who made it. Sorry for those who were not able to come.
Thanks Rob for leading us again through your kingdom.
The forecast of bad weather for our normal hiking day of Thursday necessitated a change to the plan, so Wednesday 27 August was proposed instead. The venue selected was the magnificent Cirque du Fer à Cheval at the end of the Vallée du Giffre beyond Sixt. This drew eight enthusiastic participants and an equal number of notices of absence.
Five of us, Bill, David, Mark 2ts, Mervyn and Pete, duly assembled at the Divonne Lake parking for an 8:30 getaway to rendezvous with Mike M, Peter T, Kobie and Ross at the parking lot at the Cirque. This was achieved by 10am with Mike and his trusty co-driver Nessie arriving in a sleek dark blue Alpina somewhat later.
The team starts to gather
Unfortunately the organiser had failed to inform the two dog owners that new regulations were in place which prohibited dogs from venturing into the Reserve Naturelle itself. This meant that the planned hike beyond the area of the valley floor up to the Bout du Monde and perhaps beyond was somewhat compromised.
In the event we all set off up the Giffre valley via Giffrenant as far as the Buvette du Prazon.
Crossing the GiffreSpectacular views upwardsIn the forest just before the rain cameMuller Style looking into the End of the WorldMuller on the trail with mistsIt started to rain
En route the threatened afternoon rains began far ahead of schedule (no thanks to MeteoFrance!) requiring the donning of multi-coloured rain gear, frequent pauses under trees for shelter and a welcome coffee stop at the buvette.
Mike and PeterS at the coffee stopBill, David and Ross Ross, Mark and MervynParting of the ways as the Lost Team heads upwards
Thank you Mike for treating us. The patronne informed us of more rain to come and that the path higher up was exposed and the rock underfoot very slippery and dangerous.
This became the parting of the ways for the dog-owning duo and the rest of us – who were intent on venturing up into the Reserve Naturelle.
See Below : Peter’s dog blog.
Back to the exploits of the main group: By now we were entering the area of spectacular waterfalls descending vertically hundreds of metres on both sides of this glaciated valley.
Waterfall appreciation team -it’s behind you !
Not as dramatic as during the spring melt but impressive nonetheless. Under continuing rain we climbed higher on a path, in parts liberally strewn with sheep shit, until reaching a large dryish cave in the cliff face under a waterfall where we took shelter and enjoyed our picnic lunch. Peter had generously offloaded pretzels and a bottle of Côtes du Rhône, which was consumed appreciatively. A surprising number of hikers/walkers including kids had made it this far on a wet Wednesday, some shod in distinctly sub-optimal footwear.
Dry redFrom whence we came
A little further on from our cave refuge we reached the Bout du Monde 1222m itself with a gate and signpost indicating destinations further and higher: Refuge de la Vogealle 1902m and thence to the Lac de la Vogealle and the Swiss border. We had neither the time nor the enthusiasm to “cross to the other side”.
Close to the EndThe rain had stopped
The afternoon was dry and even partly sunny and the path back down to our starting point, which was over a shaky 30m passerelle and on along the other side of the river, took us two hours. So we were a little behind our estimated meeting time with the doggers. However we couldn’t resist a celebratory beer at the cafe just above the parking area.
Horseshoe Celebrations
Mike had already departed but Peter waited to take Ross back since Mark’s car, capacious as it is, could only seat five. The journey home was swift until we encountered the early evening traffic on the airport to Coppet section of the autoroute. Our thanks to Mark for once again bearing the driving burden.
Technical details: Distance 14.5 Km, denivelation 550m, humidity high (from external rain and internal perspiration)
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Peter’s Dog Blog
Mike Muller and Nessie with me and Kobie had to turn around at Prazon after the coffee stop. Dogs cannot enter the Reserve Naturelle which starts 2.5km up the main valley (and encompassed the area on the outside of the valley bottom from Sixt). I had checked out the trails on Outdoor Active, which had not identified the Reserve, but I had an inkling that this was the case. Mervyn’s “dogs allowed” was not going to work. No worries, as we had had a good start to the coffee stop in the woods to Prazon and by which time water was falling from the sky.
Dog wallowing – clear river that turned grey after the rain
Nothing for it but to circle back down a different, but what seemed like the main tourist trail to the Plan Des Lacs Centre with its nice restaurant Chalet du Fer-à-Cheval. There were plenty of folk about, many with no rain gear.
We entered the Chalet with Kobie barking in excitement, and thus we were offered a suitable table outside, happily under large chalet eaves and which suited us perfectly. A fine glass of IPA for me, an iced tea for Mike and a superb lunch of burger, chips and local sausage ensued, with desert of chocolate mousse and cheesecake. And good and friendly service.
A really nice lunch
Mike and I had a good chat in the spectacular setting as we watched the rain falling and we felt a bit sorry for our colleagues (Lost) up at the “end of the world” and out in the heavy rain. Kobie and Nessie were well fed with chews and burger bits, indeed Kobie swallowed my chicken wrap (lunch) from the Volg in two goes – without choking.
Mike decided to head back home so Kobie and I headed up to Prazon again in the rain (and this time I put Kobie in his new yellow (Temu) raincoat which I had earlier left in the car) but the downpour eased by the time we got there.
Back up the trailThe new raincoat worked but was put on too late
No sign of the Lost so we headed back down the main trail to the car.
Blue sky coming so I took off his coat. Stunning cliffs hereabouts.
It was not long before the Lost became found and Ross and I wended our way back via Tanninges this time, only hitting the slightly heavy traffic before Coppet. A fine walk for us, and I was only marginally miffed that we missed the main hike, but the lunch and shorter hike was great compensation – and our views were stunning too -and K and I were indeed a bit tired from a 900m hike the day before. I think Mike and Nessie were happy too.
To my knowledge, this is the first time a GIN walk has involved a boat trip which requires the added challenge of not missing the boat!
Bravo to all participants – John Broadbridge, Tim Goodyear, Philip Jenkins, Robert O’Riordan, Richard Saynor, Nicolas Ulmer, Ralph Wares and Mark Warren – for being at the Nyon jetty in time for the departure of the MB Valais at 10h55.
It was a lovely day and the lake was calm, so we arrived in good form at Yvoire. Our walk was slightly extended following a request to visit the centre of Yvoire with its crowds and commercial activities, including many restaurants, before returning to the Porte de Nernier for a group photograph.
The walk itself of some 2 kilometres each way is straightforward with minimal height difference and welcome shade. Nernier is smaller and much less commercial than Yvoire; even so it has several restaurants, one of which, the Restaurant du Lac, gives onto the port. There have been mixed reports about this restaurant but its location is ideal and for us at any rate the food and service were excellent; we all chose the filet des perches (from Ireland) and many the café gourmand for dessert.
With our clear view of the jetty, we noted that with the boats stopping at Nernier, including the PS Montreux, there was no real need to walk back to Yvoire. But walking is what we did, visiting Nernier again by boat on our return to Nyon.
An enjoyable and convivial trip.
Total distance with diversions about 5kms with a height difference of 20 metres.
To ride or not to ride, that was the question…..Meteo Suisse forecast was not looking hopeful for Thursday. After an exchange of emails with the GIN Biker community, some of who were half in, some half out, some taking the mean position and some the median, and some definitely excusing themselves, the Bleader said that a definitive decision would be made at 08.30h on the morning of the outing.
The evening before everything looked pretty gloomy with an over 50% chance of rain but by the following morning PeterT felt compelled to wake up the Bleader at 07.20h with the news that there was a window of possibility. A couple of strong coffees later and after studying in detail the latest reports, Stephen agreed that it did indeed seem as if we had a rain free morning with a storm predicted over lunch and then a chance to get home in the dry. The message went out to the eagerly awaiting Bikers that it was indeed a cycling day. Silence from the ether in way of reply apart from e-Paul who had sensibly (in view of earlier weather reports) organised alternative activities for the day.
So a slighty greater than averagely keen threesome made an appearance at the Everness Hotel at 09.30h: PeterT, Stephen and rather unexpectedly Mark2Ts, who, although he had opted for the mean position on decision whether to cycle or not, had not responded to direct contact attempts an hour earlier. A suggestion to make it a short sharp ride with the famous 3 hill circuit was unceremoniously quashed and replaced with one hill, the Genolier climb, with the motivation of lunch at the auberge in Coinsins.
The Bleader led the poorly populated peloton on a zig-zag course through Celigny, Crans, Eysins, Signy and Grens towards the foot of the Bonmont climb. Excitement and habit got the better of him at this stage and he suggested slipping in an additional hill to the previously agreed plan. Mark2Ts was definitely reassessing his position to participate to the lower quartile whilst Peter compensated by moving to the upper quartile….the mean stayed constant. (What about the median? In fact, what is the median in this context?). A compromise was found where Stephen and Peter completed a short Bonmont (up to the first junction before heading downhill and not completing the full 727m elevation) whilst Mark rode on the relative flat to the boulangerie at Givrins, where we would meet for coffee.
Over the coffee and croissants, kindly supplied by a relaxed looking Mark, an updated weather review took place. The animated forecast showed a 50 minute window to complete the Genolier climb and get to the restaurant before the heavens would open with an almighty storm. Even buoyed by caffeine this seemed too much for Mark, whose resolve to continue slipped to the zero percentile. He left on the quick route home.
A relaxed moment before difficult decision making
Peter and Stephen conquered the Genolier summit and managed to get to Coinsins before the threatened downpour. Two beers, two steak and frites and two coffees later we were still waiting for the storm. A difficult decision was made to make homeward dash for it as the alternative was more beer (and dessert?).
Weathering out the impending storm
We needn’t have worried, we managed the full itinerary via Duillier, Asse, Petit Eysins and the Landi car park crossing, Eysins and back to Arnex in the dry. Peter also made the additional 7kms back home without needing raingear….although he subsequently reported he did need magnesium salts for severe cramp.
The slings and arrows of outrageous fortune were kind to us. Those with less than mean/median weather optimism missed a good ride in the dry of just under 14kms with an elevation difference of either 600m or 1065m depending whose electronic device to believe.
