Author: Peter Taylor

This week saw a heat wave that really started to sap energies so it was not surprising, also given the number of members travelling in far off places, that only three and a dog turned out for this hike. Here is the flyer :-

“It will be hot this Thursday, so I am planning high and shaded, and beer at the Barillette. Maybe 400m – 500m up and not arduous except for the heat. The walk will be Taylored to the attendees. 
And we shall have a picnic after the beer, a little higher up.
 Meet at 9.30 at Divonne or at 10 am at St Cergue parking lot (W3W ///outer.dupe visits) at 10 am. (Note – this is 50m down the second road on the left entering and just before the roundabout in St Cergue, after ascending the hill from the Nyon exit. It is NOT Tancouez.)
Bring a picnic and water and sun gear.”

Attending : Nathan, Chris, Kobie and me.

Apologies : Mervyn (sipping Liffy water), Richard, David, Markrrs and Philip (keeping powder and foreheads dry), PeterSt (in the big hills), Marktts (in west Wales), Rudolf (sidetracked by the Walking Group scheduling), Rudi (golf), Thatcher (sailing the Cyclades), Ross (repatriation admin), etc etc.

The road up to (but not down from) St Cergue was closed and we had to deviate up through Arzier but we arrived shortly after 10am with heat beginning to build. The higher 1040m start point reduced the heat level a bit, and the final denivellation a lot.

Perhaps because of this heat we had to halt after only one minute because Chris’s left hiking boot came apart when the heel-sole came unstuck. He went back for his trainers. Nathan recommended the boot repair shop in La Combe and I can endorse this.

We set off again up the Beatrix trail turning right to ascend beneath the ruins of the Vieux Château and up past Guinfard, through the Bois de Guinfard. Nathan was keen to keep right but we kept left to the ridge and actually later descended down Nathan’s path.

Although the sun was high, there was a nice cooling breeze from the north, not quite a Bise but almost and the temperature was very pleasant all day.

The sun blazed down on us as we headed up the final stony slope towards the Barillette restaurant, which was open and not crowded on the terrace, and we were appointed a semi-shaded table for a most welcome beer – thanks Nathan for the beer!

With Kobie chomping on a meaty chew, splendid cold beer and good company, fabulous views across to the Alps, the question could have been asked, is this as good as it gets?

A decision was made to eat our picnics at the outside table at the Chalet des Apprentis, and we charted a course on the main trail avoiding the steep drop to the Bent Tree. Sadly however the outside table must have been inside, so we ate our lunch on a bench in the porch with superb views across the cliff face of La Dôle.

Fortified by a small tot of Lord Richmond whisky, (lord knows where that is from (and we missed Richard’s Bottle)), we took the courageous decision not to summit La Dôle, nor track up to the Col de Porte but instead wind our way back down the 5 Jura Crest Trail.

It was not long before we found ourselves down at the Bent Tree where it was comforting to see that it is still partly alive.

Kobie spent most of his time lurking in the shade of the mountain trees that we passed but it was not long before he found his true heaven.

The trail back down (slightly up in one place) was pleasant and enjoyable in the cooling breeze and it was not too long before we found ourselves heading down the slope into St Cergue.

This was a fine medium-grade hike made more enjoyable by the company and the good (not too hot) weather. Kobie enjoyed it too.

Back down in Divonne it was 6C warmer (30C) and dusty like Texas.

12.65km and 623 m denivellation (but Nathan had recorded 510m up and 570m down (!), Chris had 580m up – so I’ll go with mine).

As MikeH started his travels for the summer the day after this hike, I am blogging for him. Thanks Mike for taking this on before your long summer peregrination and wedding fest.

Mike wrote

Demonstrating the lack of imagination that comes naturally to a former financial regulator/banker, I would like to propose my usual circular walk south west from the Col du Marchairuz. We last did this on May 8th last year. The walk is about 11km and the deniv about 350m.
I would suggest we have 2 rdvs, one at 9.15 in Divonne car park and one at the Col du Marchairuz at 10.00. I will book lunch for 13.30.
I will meet at the Col and this will be my last GIN walk until July/August. 2 daughters, 2 weddings soaks up the time this summer!
Let me know by next Wednesday at the latest,
Mike

and later

So we have a provisional 10 for tomorrow with Peter Strebel, Nathan F and David C opting for Divonne, Andrew N , Rudolf Pluss, Peter T and myself for the Col. As yet , Stephen Long, Mark Watts and Michael Mathews are undeclared.

The forecast is good for tomorrow, sunny and 15 degrees so sun hats, sunglasses and perhaps a fleece are indicated.

The table is booked for 13.30

Mike

Indeed Stephen, Mark and Michael all duly turned out and we were indeed 10 at the start (and finish). Stephen and Mark sported shorts, but for me it was still a bit iffy for bare legs. No dogs this time which was a welcome relief for Mike and me, and come to think about it everyone else too.

The weather was superb, a nice breeze but not strong, a good sun and the prospect of a nice hike. We set off from the Col (1447m) at 10.20 and headed down NW along the main trail that turns SE running parallel to the crest of the Jura. It’s Nepali flat to the Chalet at La Neuve, at 1446 m. The flowers were magnificent, mainly crocuses, but some others that Philip, had he been there, could have educated us about. There was much chatting, with much to chat about.

Reaching La Neuve chalet it was time for apèros and coffee (only Mark’s black as Mervyn did not attend), and some pleasant Italian (I think) red appeared. Richard’s bottle was missed, but not sorely.

Avoiding the short 50m climb to the Crêt de la Neuve (which has great views) we headed across the crest and down to the Petit Préde Rolle where we turned NW for the 5km troll back through forest then field then forest to the Col de Marchairuz and our lunch appointment which we just about made at 13.30.

By the time we reached the cars and the restaurant we each had a good thirst going and an appetite to match, and the dish of the day – beef stroganoff with rice – was chosen by all non vegetarians.

I asked about the parrot that used to live in a cage in one corner of the bar and was told that is no longer there, but still alive (at 80 years of age (!)) in an old parrots home and had not yet gone to meet its maker. There was much discussion which included the King’s successful US visit, parrots, growing up in Africa, malaria, weddings, boats, electric bikes, GPS technicalities, general relativity, dogs, summer plans, etc etc.

We raised a toast to Larry – and hoped that he is well wherever he now is over the pond in Canada, we think. It was here that we first met him, and I recall he did turn up for a lunch – was it last year ? at the Col.

The dining room is surrounded by ticking antique clocks, all showing a different time, and chiming on the hour of their own special space-times.

By the time we had finished (near 3.30pm) all the other diners had long gone.

Another great hike into the southerly Hempstead kingdom. Thanks again Mike.

Here is the Flyer I sent :-

Mark2ts usually leads this botanical adventure but he is still in Blighty, and will be so then, so I will lead. 

Let’s hope the daffs are still there. We’ve missed them before….

The map below shows the route over La Dôle, 14km and 690m so quite a tough one for us. Say grade 5. 

Picnic needed.

Last year the team of 10 was as follows :-

Each Five of us: David C, Mervyn, Nathan and 2 Marks met at the parking in Divonne and drove up together to meet Peter, Steven, Ross, 2 Mikes: Hempstead and Mathews, and 2 dogs: Kobie and Rocco, at La Givrine.

This year a novel approach was taken. I had advertised this as a hard hike (Grade 5 needs calibrating) in order to ensure that folk were well informed before accepting a harder outing than they wanted. After a kernel of tough-nut hikers seemed to be forming, Mark2rs suggested that an alternative easier approach might attract daffodil delinquents who might not appreciate mixing harder ardour with beautiful botany.

We had 8 hikers start at La Givrine for the traditional Dôle troll, and 5 botannical boffins who would come in from La Vattay and meet us in the fields of gold. Mark2rs’s Botannical Blog is given below (thanks Mark).

Meeting up on time at La Givrine (1205m) were Stephen (bravely sporting shorts), Ross, PeterSt, Mervyn, Chris, Nicolas and Onyx, and me and Kobie. Accountants and nitpicking quiz experts among you may have counted that there are only 7 Gintlemen in that list, along with 2 dogs.

We duly set off in bright weather with a light breeze. After a few hundred metres my accountant brain (such as is left of it) kicked in as I counted only 7 of us when we should have been 8. We had forgotten Michael Mathews who had planned to arrive by train but because of railworks came up on the bus, which had been delayed (as always he says). We duly turned round and on reaching a knoll we saw Michael speeding across the grass towards us. We were now all together.

The next challenge was going to be evident fairly quickly. How much snow would there be? None of us had grippers, snow shoes or ice axes and we were going to attacking the north face of La Dôle (1677m).

It was not long before we began to transit rather large snow patches.

A further slight problem arose in that Onyx seemed set on humping Kobie at every opportunity, albeit unsuccessfully each time. Nicolas was sadly having to keep Onyx on a leash in accordance too with Swiss legal requirements.. It may be that Onyx may have to be attended to in the tackle department if such behaviour is to be cured.

After 2 km of pleasant going in a SW direction we headed up past the closed Couvaloup de Crans Restaurant towards La Dôle in a general SE direction.

At this point Stephen strode ahead and took a more southerly route up the mountain.

It was clear (to me anyway) that our ascent would be aided by staying off the slushy snow and keeping to the grassy slopes to the left, meeting the ridge and then strolling up the grass on the ridge to the summit; and so it transpired, albeit Stephen preferred the snowy more direct route. We arrived at the top at noon.

There was no time for coffee or apèro, as we had a rendezvous arrival time of 1 pm and there were a few km of descent to come. We passed by some chamois which our hounds kindly gave up chasing pretty quickly and then struggled down the rubbly and rocky ridge towards the border where we hope to meet the Vattay venturers.

It was at this point that we began to spot daffodils, in small clumps.

We struggled up the hill on time at 1pm to meet our French chums (we were now in France) and a hearting greeting ensued, dogs joined in too.

A lunch spot a little off the top of the hill in the lee of the wind and next to a small triangle of daffodils served as an ideal lunch spot, facing the intermittent sun.

Bottles were opened and our picnic commenced. Red wines, Gigondas and others helped to avoid any choking incidents (as I had bought some wraps).

It was time (2.25pm) for us to part and say our goodbyes to the French Frolickers, and we eight hikers and 2 dogs set off down towards the expected golden fields.

Finally though, on the steeper sunny slopes to our left the daffodils were there laid out in all their glory.

There followed quite a tough after-lunch section up 150m or so through the forest, therefore on quite deep snow into which our boots were sinking. Stephen laid much of the trail, in whose boot-marks we struggled to follow.

Eventually we topped out on the ski run which we followed back to Couvaloup, and which I found much easier descending than on the usual grass. Was it the wine or the ibuprofen?

We had seen at least one skier (with his dog) on the day. Indeed there was quite a covering for those who fancy ski touring. This hike had been tougher than any previous hike led by Mark2ts, on account of the snow cover.

It was left to descend easily the road and then the soft grassy mounds to La Givrine.

I made it 16km and 740m, slightly above Mark2ts earlier assessment. Our gadgets all seem to differ.

A very pleasant hike, good chats, great to see the Botanists in France too. Sorry we missed some regulars including our daffodil guru Mark2ts. The ladies (IWCN) intend to visit the fields towards the end of April. I believe that they too will see daffs, but in the fields that were yet to sprout because of late snows. We were lucky too. May we continue to be so.

Botanical Adventure Thursday 16 April 2026 (Mark2rs)

The announcement by the hiking supremo that the route over the Dôle for this traditional botanical adventure of 14km and 690m was quite a tough one for us stimulated some stalwarts but spread alarm to others. However, instead of throwing their knapsacks down and declining outright, they proposed a less challenging route starting from la Vattay. This was reminiscent of an earlier hike when the border was closed towards the end of the Covid lockdown.

Consequently, five Gintlemen, Richard Saynor, Philip Jenkins, Rob Pashley, Nathan Finkelstein and Mark Warren, set off from la Vattay for a hike of about 5.5 km each way with a height gain of 300m on a straight forward trail. 

On discovering that the organiser was a reluctant leader, Richard led us up the direct trail, which though never difficult was covered in compacted snow remaining from the skiing season. In fact, one or two skiers were seen in the course of the day. Botanist Philip informed us of the names of several flowers, including the spring squill, but one, which we baptised the triffid, eluded him. Diligent that he is, he later informed us that the real name of the plant, ignominiously called a triffid, that we saw on the way from La Vattay yesterday, is Butterbur. The unusual flowers are only seen in early Spring. The rest of the year you only see heart-shaped leaves, which get bigger and bigger as the year proceeds and eventually are enormous (rhubarb-sized).

As expected, we arrived at our meeting place 30 minutes before the other group, which gave time to relax and watch approaching hikers for the other party who arrived on time at 1pm. Carpets of crocuses were everywhere as well as several of the promised daffodils, with many more to come. 

A leisurely and most enjoyable lunch was had by all. 

All too soon it was time to separate and return our respective ways. Philip to the lead this time, taking us perfectly through the cross-country skiing domaine to our cars. 

A most enjoyable outing. Thanks Peter and everyone.

10 kilometres and 300m height difference.

Sitting here on a very warm Easter Monday it is hard to think back to the cold winds and deep snow that we encountered and endured only last Thursday up in the Jura.

This was to be a last visit and fondu of the winter season to say farewell to Maria and her fellow crew at the Buvette de La Genolière before they close for the summer season when the place becomes a cow byre. Initially ten signed up, but we had one cancellation and one addition – that of Robert O’Riordan who was to join us for the lunch only.

So – nine of us with two dogs Kobie and Plato, met up at Tancouez (1057m) at W3W///udder.able.tilts – which as Rudolf Staehelin found is a location in Canada as well as near St Cergue. Happily he arrived safely at the parking with Joe Kutzin who accompanied his dog Plato (aged 12). I cannot recall Joe out on hikes before, albeit he is a ski regular and has attended the main club lunches – welcome Joe. Also attending the regular crew – RichardSay, Philip, Stephen, DavidC, Nathan, PeterSt and me PeterT.

The day was bright and clear but with a cold bise wind still somewhat evident. My plan was to track past Les Mouilles through the wood to fields then W and NW then SW to the Fruitières de Nyon Chalet, thence up to Cabane Rochefort 1388m for apèros. After that we would travel WSW through the wonderful “secret” forest before a drop down into Grande Combe then steeply up to La Genloière itself at 1348m.

We were all dressed well for the cold but sunny conditions, even Stephen could not be tempted to air his shorts. The initial part of the hike was on dry ground – there had been some doubt as to whether or not we should have packed snow shoes, but as this was the first hike of the hiking season, and as I had managed the same hike without such kit only 11 days earlier, I determined that we should just about be able to manage without. In the event this was just about the case.

We formed a sensible line with Stephen me and Kobie at the front, generally Joe and Plato to the rear. The two dogs seemed the get on tolerably well, but mostly happily ignored each other.

(I looked up the sayings of Plato. The one I liked was – “Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something”)

Very soon we were up in the sun at the Fruitières de Nyon, Chalet Devant.

There was no long stop planned here as we needed to bash on up the Cabane Rochefort for apèro refreshment, and where some Luins was joined by brandy from the famous bottle.

Calling ahead to warn Maria that we would be likely arriving closer to 1 pm than 12.30pm, I hoped that Robert would be OK on his walk up from La Givrine. Philip decided not to branch out on his own, but stayed with us, as the snow was becoming deeper with not a lot of sign of activity on the trail ahead.

Broaching the top at 1400m we turned slightly left to follow the path down along the ridge to the gap in the wall to the secret forest. Only here the snow depth completely covered the wall.

We found that the lack of snow shoes was just about justifiable.

Suddenly we arrived and entered the Buvette, meeting Robert who had safely made it too. There was a nice log fire to keep us all toasty.

Two teams tackled the fondu offering, and it seemed that the cheese was performing well. My croute was exceptional too.

We had some very pleasant Chasselas to help it all go down. Tarts were enjoyed for dessert, then coffees.

The was much to discuss and debate about the problems of the world, many stemming from Trump and the Iran war, fuel crisis looming, the Ukraine war ongoing, climate change tipping points etc. Scottish independence gained little traction. Outside Kobie played occasionally with Moos and Zwichon giving me some rest while eating.

PeterSt had to be home by 4pm so he and Robert, Richard and Philip all left with 35 minutes to spare to meet the 14.57 train at La Givrine. The remainding 6 of us chose my plan to track directly back down into the Grande Combe again, then back up and over steeply down into Combe Grasse to pick up the mountain road that leads ESE down to Tancouez.

At one point we wondered where Joe had got too. It seems that Plato was loth to leave the Buvette, he has a herding instinct and wanted to herd all the folk still there to join us. We finally spotted them coming down and across to rejoin the party.

I knew that the path into Combe Grasse was steep, and being covered in snow made it not much easier, but we all made it safely down onto the mountain road, still also with snow.

From there it was a pleasant stroll back down in the warming sun. I made it 12 km and 546m (but my I-watch seems inaccurate and Nathan’s 490m seems more true).

Our drive back (Stephen, Kobie and me) was only slightly marred by getting stuck in yet another jam on the autoroute. We listened to some good Coldplay Everyday Life to help us through.

Thanks for the company everyone. The hiking season 2026 has started. Maybe less snow next time.

POSTSCRIPT

Sunday 12 April 26

Maria had indicated that the Buvette closes on 13 April 2026 for the season. As I felt that I had left 10 days ago without saying a proper goodbye, I decided to re-hike the last route to La Genolière and give them a bottle of bubbly. It was a wet Sunday and Kobie and I waited until midday when the worst of the rain had past and it was merely moist. From Tancouez to the Buvette we encountered only one other party, the hills were damp and quiet. There was still plenty of snow in the forest and on shaded slopes – it’s going to take weeks for that to melt.

We knocked and entered at 1.40 pm with Moos and Zwikon there but no guests at all and signs that the team were packing up. There was some tart evident and Maria came down hearing Kobie’s bark. I gave her the bottle and was provided with a coffee and tart on the house. Then Maria fetched from a shelf a pair of gloves – my nice pair with wrist loops that I had left there 10 days ago and had still not noticed that they were missing! We thanked each other. Maria said that she and her team (family or friends?) move to a Mt Tendre chalet for the summer to look after the cows up there, sadly there is no buvette at that chalet. The Genolière Buvette will reopen on 6 Novembre. Put that in your agendas:

Kobie and I left and returned to Tancouez the same way as on the Gin hike. The steep snowy slope which caused consternation before, was devoid of snow and was slippy in the rain. Kobie found an impressive leg bone with a furry “tail” which he proudly carried for 45 minutes all the way to the car. As it was wet, there were many worms out on the tarmac and tracks, looking for their fortunes.