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For the sixth time in the modern (GIN) era, the classic hike on the shores of the Lac de Joux was planned for Thursday, 9th October.  It was billed as a relatively easy outing which might have attracted a larger response from the hiking community, but in the end just eleven of us embarked on the trip as several “would-have’s” were otherwise occupied, along with some regulars who were either incapacitated or off on their travels.  Seven of us (Mark 2rrs, Mark 2tts, Nathan, Stephen, David, Rob O’Riordan and myself) met at the Divonne parking.  Rob had just descended from St Cergue by public transport only to be returned by private mode. Our delight in seeing that there were none of the usual queues up to the autoroute was quickly dampened by the slow-moving, sometimes stationary, traffic on the said road.  Messages were exchanged advising of  possible late arrivals at the L’Orient parking place, where we met up with the four (and a half) remaining members (RichardW, Andrew, Thatcher, MikeH and Rocco).  Rocco ran around greeting everyone, but was obviously confused that his mates Kobie and Nessie weren’t present.

The weather had been sunny on the plain but as we had reached the summit of the Col du Marchairuz, we encountered the cloudy conditions which unfortunately persisted for the rest of the day.  The leader communicated the bad news that the little red and white train for the return trip was out of service, but the good news that there was a conveniently-situated bus stop which would enable us to be ferried back to the cars.  It was also noted at this point that there were three virGIN members who hadn’t participated in earlier hikes in the area.

So we set off, somewhat delayed, which may have precipitated the cracking pace set by the first two in the group.  However, everyone managed to keep up with the young bucks at the front and there were occasional stops to admire the views across the lake and take in the bird life and Autumnal colours which had been promised.  One common topic of conversation which seemed to prevail were the latest exploits of the Orange man and whether his efforts to bring peace would prevail, and if he would be subsequently rewarded by the Peace Prize.  Nobody fancied a swim except the brave Rocco who didn’t stay in for long!

The trail, which varies between grass, road, wooden boardwalk, pavement, soft woodland soil and rocky paths, follows the edge of the lake until there is a steep uphill section rising about 80 metres in a series of switchbacks to a welcoming seat which served a very useful purpose. 

Upwards and onwards

Tucking in

A bottle of excellent red from Puglia was produced (many thanks, Stephen) as well as a variety of snacks, which were gratefully consumed.  Sitting forlornly on the bench was the GIN bottle who would remain untouched until much later in the day

Conscious of our tardy start, we continued into the woodland section hoping to see large herds of chamois, but were somewhat perturbed to see several groups of fellow hikers in both directions which may have scared off the wild animals.  However, the leading members of our group, including an excited Rocco, did soon espy a small group of chamois disappearing off to the right.  Although we didn’t encounter the 70-odd herd that we saw last year, we did eventually come across a gathering of 10 individuals who seemed quite happy to munch away even though we got quite close.

The path down to the lake level is quite steep with rocks and roots, which is slippery even in dry conditions, so the team became a bit strung out with the leaders obviously thirsty and hungry, probably in that order, marching off along the Le Pont promenade towards the Brasserie des Combières, our lunch spot. 

Beers brewed less than half a kilometre away were quickly ordered and sampled and we were pleased to see that a selection of “chasse” was on the blackboard. 

About half our number opted for one or other of the game options and a couple of bottles of red were consumed, although we agreed that the quality was not up to Stephen’s earlier offering.  Our twelfth honorary member, the GIN bottle, was passed around and several partook of it’s contents of Stolnaya vodka.

The buses back to the cars run hourly and with the 14.30 departure not being an option, 10 of us bought tickets online or from the driver at inexplicably different prices for the 12 minute trip leaving at 15.30.  Rob took his chances that trains would at least be running northwards to Lausanne so headed off to the station.

Our total hike was 12.5 kms, somewhat less than last year, but hopefully just as enjoyable.  Total ascent was 180 metres.

September 24-25th, 2025

A hike organiser needs to keep a close eye on weather conditions. So it was with some apprehension when the late summer from the previous week turned into a forecast for early winter with heavy rain and potential for snow for a planned 2 day hike in Barme. So much had been promised by the organiser in terms of stunning scenery only available in fine weather. 12 enthusiastic participants had responded to an early call with happy memories of the Tour of the Muverans and the Tour of the Dents du Midi still in mind. When one potential participant, with a Philippines’ warm weather habit, literally got cold feet, it was an indication that the rest of the group would have to be consulted to check on their resolve. Happily, the first response from a member (one happy to frolic in the snow) set the tone and suggested that this GIN group is more than used to adversity. After this, no-one else dared back out and the organiser had shared the weight of decision-making responsibility.

Backpacks were loaded with wet weather gear and layers of warm clothing (and in some cases copious supplies for canine friends) and then covered with waterproof membranes. The journey from respective homes to the Grand Paradis parking meeting place in the Portes du Soleil at the far end of the valley from Champéry was mostly smooth. The 11 eager participants arrived on time and were soon talking about the sole hiker who had decided that the best waterproofing was bare legs…. well, the Scots do have experience in this domain. The party consisted of Mark2Rs, Mervyn, MikeH + Rocco, MikeM + Nessie, Nathan, PeterS, PeterT + Kobie, Ralph, RichardS, Rob and Stephen (leader). As was commented, mad dogs and Englishmen were certainly present on this occasion as well as a representative sample of other nationalities with similar tendencies.

All present and correct. The team sets off.

The dogs set off excitedly, happy to also be part of this adventure, and the group followed in a more measured manner. There was a request for a coffee stop but unfortunately the one suitable restaurant had decided to take a few days off. So, we started the initial climb, past the closed restaurant and up towards the threatening sky and our luncheon spot. The rain held back and as those aging bodies warmed up there was perhaps a greater understanding of a choice of shorts. We started to find our rhythm with a group of usual front runners and backmarkers and those happy to be in the middle or alternating between positions. Plenty of time had been allotted for this shortish but steep ca. 500m climb to the Refuge de Bonavau at 1552m.

On the way up. No rain and warm….maybe the Scotsman has got it right

Nathan, with his dedicated trek tracker, is a dangerous companion to a hike organiser as he always seems to know in advance the exact location, elevation, steepness of climb/descent, etc. so it’s impossible to suggest any route is less arduous than reality. We arrived in good time at the refuge just as the rain started to fall and we installed ourselves in the dry as the only customers of the day. The refuge has checked the day before that we really would be coming as all their other reservations, including the overnight stays, had cancelled due to the weather forecast.

Good spirits and good beer.

Plenty of banter over lunch and memories of the first day of the Tour des Dents du Midi hike which had passed very close to here (but without lunch….a story often brought up to try, unsuccessfully, to embarrass Mervyn, the organiser of that great outing). The mountain fare was good with mostly a selection of croûtes and omelettes chosen, washed down with sufficient beer but leaving room for the tarte aux myrtilles before coffees. The dogs too had their nutrition, Kobie only being satisfied when the 80CHF bag of mega-chews was eventually opened. Unfortunately, we did have to leave this warm cocoon and venture out into the cold and now increasingly wet world. However, it appeared that all was not well with Rocco and his concerned owner, Mike, who felt that there was canine over-excitement. He took the difficult decision to head back down to Grand Paradis and onto St. Luc, a day earlier than initially planned.

After lunch outlook was not so promising.

By chance, Mike missed the wettest, muddiest, slipperiest, and overall not a very pleasant climb up to the col at 1793m and then sliding downhill to Barme. Normally this is a short and scenic walk but in these conditions, with little visibility and heavy rain, it seemed unusually long….atlhough Rob did claim to like these familiar conditions. However, expectations had been set for the rest of the hike…..Day 2 must be better, mustn’t it?

A pause at the high point before descent into Barme

The Cantine de Barmaz was welcoming, serving us hot drinks on arrival as we shed wet clothing and recovered from the afternoon’s exertions. The owner/waiter didn’t seem over stressed as we were the only customers (although another couple appeared for the evening meal…..from where and to where we do not know).

A warm, dry haven at last.

Out of the rain….time for a warm drink and relaxation

Feeling slightly less damp we moved operations to the bedrooms where the only predetermined arrangements were for the dogs and their owners, one individual room and one agreed double room. The rest of us looked around and hoped that we had chosen room mates with no unpleasant nocturnal habits. From the discussion the following morning it seems that we mostly succeeded. The rooms were compact, especially for PeterT and MikeM who had to share their accommodation with Kobie (no need to mention Nessie as she seemed to slot in unnoticed anywhere). There was a relief that MikeH and Rocco didn’t have to share this room as the owner was adamant that there could only be one room with dogs.

Dog tired …..but where do Peter and Mike sleep?

The bathroom facilities were also interesting with two closed showers , three basins and one open toilet all within a confined area. Happily, we discovered much more private toilets downstairs for the more meaningful visits.

After a change of clothes and a time for general relaxation, we congregated for the apéros before making our meal choices. With a room to ourselves, equipped with a stove, we soon were enjoying the warmth and letting the afternoon conditions recede into the distant memory (some poetic licence here). Were we all game for the game on the menu, especially when we were told by the owner that this was local. Wines were not quite so local but came from Saillon, just a little further down the Valais. Since MikeH had made a generous parting gesture of offering us some drinks, we decided to opt for one of the better bottles on the list to toast our friendship at his expense. It was very drinkable and, unfortunately, set the standard for the other bottles consumed, much to the concern of the leader/accountant. In fact, we didn’t hold back in this convivial atmosphere and enjoyed not only ample good wine but also copious helpings of cerf and/or sanglier in rack, medaillon or entrecote form with all the trimmings, without forgetting starters and desserts. Such were the helpings that Kobie benefitted from a large meal of left-overs the following morning….a veritable doggie bag. By the time we were at the coffee stage several were mellow enough to be persuaded to have a glass of the homemade pine liqueur. Sadly, the accountant was also mellow enough to allow this. Added to crème brulée in small quantities this liqueur was truly excellent but in pure form it transformed to a green sludge with a very unpleasant aftertaste, rivalling the worst of Richard’s flask offerings. Amazingly, Mervyn and PeterT seemed immune to these flavours (aftermath of COVID?) and were happy to help out those with more sensitive palates. Even they could not finish all 7 glasses.

A great choice of chasse and wine. No prices on the latter…..

Game for this plate of food.

Happiness is a warm room, warm food and warm company

To rival any of Richard’s

Replete and tired from the day’s efforts, people started drifting off to bed at an unusually early hour, leaving a hard core to have a final rinsing beer and to listen to the calls of amorous wild animals across the valley, mingled with the bells from more domesticated animals. The night passed without major incident, no loud snores or rampant dogs, just the frequent creak of old doors as aging men needed to make use of the open plan bathroom. The dog room had the worst of this as the only place for Kobie was in front of the door, causing a large obstacle for exit. Ironically, on an informal count the following morning, the human content of this room claimed the maximum number of nocturnal reliefs.

Is that sunshine behind us?

A new day dawned……and it was still raining. However, there seemed to be better visibility at times. MeteoSuisse promised a drier day from 09.30h until 16h, almost perfect for the planned walk. So we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and repacked our backpacks ready for the rain to stop….which it did but visibility was still poor. Backpacks were left at the Cantine as we would be passing by again on our final way down and could pick them up them. The walk up from the Cantine to the end of the Barme valley can be spectacular under good conditions. We had tantalising glimpses between rising and falling cloud and started to gain an appreciation of our location. New snow on the peaks added an additional quality to those ethereal glimpses. We even managed to see some chamois high up on the hill, which Kobie felt obliged to get closer to. By the time we reached the end of the valley, we had a fairly good view of the impressive Dents Blanches and, looking back, the Dents de Midi were also making a partial appearance.

Majestic Dents du Midi

We met your cousins last night….

Richard, Mark and MikeM decided against a longer uphill loop to see the bird station at the Col de Bretolet. This added an extra 3-4 kms to the circuit. Instead, they took the ridge walk back towards the lunchtime Cantine des Dents Blanches at a leisurely pace (allowing time to find a wayward Nessie on a couple of occasions) and secured our table in the near empty restaurant. The rest of us made the detour. This involved a steep up and as we climbed the visibility reduced. At the top, on the ridge, we had zero view to our left and to our right and it started to snow. Not ideal conditions for seeing birds.

Up into the cloud and the bird ringing station

As we began the tranverse across to the bird ringing station, there was a hint of movement in the cloud cover. As we arrived, there was a biblical moment as the clouds parted and showed the Dents Blanches appeared in all their glory. Magnificent.

Rock and awe

The Lead Ringer, one of the two paid employees at this Swiss Ornithological Institute station along with several volunteers, gave us a fascinating description of their work and trends in migration. Over 10000 birds are ringed annually between April and October, at least half of them being chaffinches (what is a chaffinch in French?). Migration trends clearly indicate errors in President Trump’s theories on (or lack of) climate change. As we were listening we had a fly past of a bearded vulture and a griffin vulture. PeterS was able to make an internation connection with ornithological activities in South Africa. Interestingly, the work of this ringing station is not advertised strongly in Switzerland since there is a body of people who are not in favour of the stress to the birds despite the information and understanding this generates.

After three isolated months here he’ll even talk to the GIN Group

We retraced our steps enjoying the view and the autumnal colours of the azaleas and myrtille plants on the hillside. Amazingly, there were plentiful berries still on the plants….if only we had picked up that myrtille comb from the Cantine. Back on the ridge, the clouds were clearing from the Portes du Soleil side and we had a good view of the new border house at the Col de Cou. Due to the time, we headed straight down and along the ridge that the alternative party had walked earlier. The views on both sides were great, enhanced in some ways by the still swirling cloud and the uncertainty of how long we would have them. The snow had stopped and it was not as muddy underfoot as the day before. We made good time despite a seemingly endless zig-zag descent through the woods along the chemin “Nature”.

We arrived at the restaurant only about 15 minutes after the reservation and reunited with the rest of the group. There was another opportunity to sample local game but for some reason we all thought that would be an over-kill. Instead, the more modest ordered salade de chevre chaud and the more gourmand went for the croute and risotto options. Some people still had room for dessert and a chance to sample another tarte aux myrtilles. The food was excellent and we marvelled how two restaurants in a small hamlet could have such good kitchens. The famous flask at last made an appearance and several sampled it’s syrupy delights. If only we had known the night before…..

Appetit refreshed. Ready for more game?

A healthy salad is a sensible choice

After lunch we recovered our backpacks and headed the direct route home. A descent of ca. 500m over 3-4km, i.e .very steep in parts. However, this was a good quality gravel track and the rain was not due until 16h. At the bottom, we passed again the closed restaurant. Although part of the initial plan to stop here, this closure was a blessing as the budget had already been blown from the excesses of the night before and the rain was starting, very much on cue. We were keen to get back to the cars. Discrete top up contributions were made to the grateful accountant, so that the books balanced.

Farewells were exchanged and we all returned back to our homes with warm memories of another memorable GIN hike. GIN really is a great organisation….friendship, exercise, tolerance and a lot of fun, despite frequent discussion over aches and pains.

Bloggers note: Many thanks for all your photographic contributions. It was not possible to use them all! I’ve chosen a representative sample without reference to who took the photo

Rob’s kingdom lies North of the Col de Marchairuz, while MikeH claims the South. Rob’s note went out :-

“For the upcoming hike I propose that we hike from Col Du Marchairuz to the Alpage Du Mont Tendre. The plan is we start at the Col at 9:30 am and take an alternative route up to the Alpage, with a return by the usual route. 

• The Col to Alpage route is 10.4 km, 465m denivelation and takes approx. 3hrs
• Return to Col is 8.3km, with 300m denivelation and will take approx. 2hrs 30min mostly downhill.
• I will arrange a booking at the Buvette for lunch.

The proposed mapped routes are attached.”

There were quite a number of apologies, some of which were apparently accepted. In the end seven and a dog arrived at the Col du Marchairuz at 9.30am on a cool and breezy morning. I entered the restaurant with Kobie who grew immediately very excited at seeing Rob, RichardS, Ralph, Rudi, Nathan and David, quietly enjoying a coffee. So excited that I had to take him out straight away without even checking to see if a new parrot had been installed.

Luckily I had an iced coffee in my car, so we were all soon caffeined-up and ready to go for this mammoth outing.

Rob last led this hike on 25 May 2023 when the following attended : – Peter D, Mervyn P, Andrew N, David C, Mike M, Mark Warren, Richard S, Richard W, Ralph and Robert P.  

Re-reading Rob’s blog of that outing it seemed that he found it a bit difficult to keep the team together. There was to be no such replay today, well almost.

As can be seen from the first map above, the outrun involved one of Rob’s long shortcuts. Sadly loggers were in place so we had to slighly shorten the shortcut, but only by a bit.

Happily the wind was behind us and we sailed along in intermittent sunshine.

It was not long before we attracted some doggerel companions.

Just before Cunay, Nathan decided on a shorter shortcut and we found ourselves on very steep ground attempting to reach the main ridge.

By this time it was becoming clear that we were entering the cloud base, with some moisture and a chilling breeze.

We finally knocked the 1679m b—–rd off so it was time for some summit apèro – Chilean Cabernet Blend, el Parron, with some healthy nibbles.

We were soon ensconced inside the Alpage at a reserved table, with room for Kobie by the door, beers were ordered and very welcome Old Boxer arrived.

A very enjoyable lunch with much banter. Some politics, not much about Scotland. We solved a few of the world’s problems though. And Kobie at least had behaved acceptably well (I believe).

Time to face the wind, but happily the sun had come out and the wind seemed less cold.

The way back is “mostly downhill” according to Rob (see above). It does not always feel that way, still another 300m up to go. But we were well fortified and somehow I had avoided the Saynor potion bottle. And the sun was nice.

For those of you who have done this it is indeed a long way back and we strode on with fortitude.

The trail goes on and on, but after 8.3km we finally made it.

I think we were too tired for final refreshments at Marchairuz, so we simply said our farewells and left.

Before finishing I promised an insight into Rob’s thermal protection, allowing him comfortably to wear shorts in cold and windy weather.

A super day out 18.5km and 750m. A fine lunch and great company. One of our longer and more challenging outings. Well done to those who made it. Sorry for those who were not able to come.

Thanks Rob for leading us again through your kingdom.

The forecast of bad weather for our normal hiking day of Thursday necessitated a change to the plan, so Wednesday 27 August was proposed instead. The venue selected was the magnificent Cirque du Fer à Cheval at the end of the Vallée du Giffre beyond Sixt.  This drew eight enthusiastic participants and an equal number of notices of absence.

Five of us, Bill, David, Mark 2ts, Mervyn and Pete, duly assembled at the Divonne Lake parking for an 8:30 getaway to rendezvous with Mike M, Peter T, Kobie and Ross at the parking lot at the Cirque. This was achieved by 10am with Mike and his trusty co-driver Nessie arriving in a sleek dark blue Alpina somewhat later.

Unfortunately the organiser had failed to inform the two dog owners that new regulations were in place which prohibited dogs from venturing into the Reserve Naturelle itself.  This meant that the planned hike beyond the area of the valley floor up to the Bout du Monde and perhaps beyond was somewhat compromised.

In the event we all set off up the Giffre valley via Giffrenant as far as the Buvette du Prazon.

En route the threatened afternoon rains began far ahead of schedule (no thanks to MeteoFrance!) requiring the donning of multi-coloured rain gear, frequent pauses under trees for shelter and a welcome coffee stop at the buvette.

Thank you Mike for treating us. The patronne informed us of more rain to come and that the path higher up was exposed and the rock underfoot very slippery and dangerous.

This became the parting of the ways for the dog-owning duo and the rest of us – who were intent on venturing up into the Reserve Naturelle. 

See Below :  Peter’s dog blog.

Back to the exploits of the main group:  By now we were entering the area of spectacular waterfalls descending vertically hundreds of metres on both sides of this glaciated valley.

Not as dramatic as during the spring melt but impressive nonetheless.  Under continuing rain we climbed higher on a path, in parts liberally strewn with sheep shit, until reaching a large dryish cave in the cliff face under a waterfall where we took shelter and enjoyed our picnic lunch. Peter had generously offloaded pretzels and a bottle of Côtes du Rhône, which was consumed appreciatively. A surprising number of hikers/walkers including kids had made it this far on a wet Wednesday, some shod in distinctly sub-optimal footwear.

A little further on from our cave refuge we reached the Bout du Monde 1222m itself with a gate and signpost indicating destinations further and higher: Refuge de la Vogealle 1902m and thence to the Lac de la Vogealle and the Swiss border. We had neither the time nor the enthusiasm to “cross to the other side”.

The afternoon was dry and even partly sunny and the path back down to our starting point, which was over a shaky 30m passerelle and on along the other side of the river, took us two hours. So we were  a little behind our estimated meeting time with the doggers. However we couldn’t resist a celebratory beer at the cafe just above the parking area. 

Mike had already departed but Peter waited to take Ross back since Mark’s car, capacious as it is, could only seat five.  The journey home was swift until we encountered the early evening traffic on the airport to Coppet section of the autoroute.  Our thanks to Mark for once again bearing the driving burden.

Technical details:  Distance 14.5 Km, denivelation 550m,  humidity high (from external rain and internal perspiration)

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Peter’s Dog Blog

Mike Muller and Nessie with me and Kobie had to turn around at Prazon after the coffee stop. Dogs cannot enter the Reserve Naturelle which starts 2.5km up the main valley (and encompassed the area on the outside of the valley bottom from Sixt). I had checked out the trails on Outdoor Active, which had not identified the Reserve, but I had an inkling that this was the case. Mervyn’s “dogs allowed” was not going to work. No worries, as we had had a good start to the coffee stop in the woods to Prazon and by which time water was falling from the sky.

Nothing for it but to circle back down a different, but what seemed like the main tourist trail to the Plan Des Lacs Centre with its nice restaurant Chalet du Fer-à-Cheval. There were plenty of folk about, many with no rain gear.

We entered the Chalet with Kobie barking in excitement, and thus we were offered a suitable table outside, happily under large chalet eaves and which suited us perfectly. A fine glass of IPA for me, an iced tea for Mike and a superb lunch of burger, chips and local sausage ensued, with desert of chocolate mousse and cheesecake. And good and friendly service.

Mike and I had a good chat in the spectacular setting as we watched the rain falling and we felt a bit sorry for our colleagues (Lost) up at the “end of the world” and out in the heavy rain. Kobie and Nessie were well fed with chews and burger bits, indeed Kobie swallowed my chicken wrap (lunch) from the Volg in two goes – without choking.

Mike decided to head back home so Kobie and I headed up to Prazon again in the rain (and this time I put Kobie in his new yellow (Temu) raincoat which I had earlier left in the car) but the downpour eased by the time we got there.

No sign of the Lost so we headed back down the main trail to the car.

It was not long before the Lost became found and Ross and I wended our way back via Tanninges this time, only hitting the slightly heavy traffic before Coppet. A fine walk for us, and I was only marginally miffed that we missed the main hike, but the lunch and shorter hike was great compensation – and our views were stunning too -and K and I were indeed a bit tired from a 900m hike the day before. I think Mike and Nessie were happy too.

I made it 10km and 210m for us.