Sitting here on a very warm Easter Monday it is hard to think back to the cold winds and deep snow that we encountered and endured only last Thursday up in the Jura.
This was to be a last visit and fondu of the winter season to say farewell to Maria and her fellow crew at the Buvette de La Genolière before they close for the summer season when the place becomes a cow byre. Initially ten signed up, but we had one cancellation and one addition – that of Robert O’Riordan who was to join us for the lunch only.
So – nine of us with two dogs Kobie and Plato, met up at Tancouez (1057m) at W3W///udder.able.tilts – which as Rudolf Staehelin found is a location in Canada as well as near St Cergue. Happily he arrived safely at the parking with Joe Kutzin who accompanied his dog Plato (aged 12). I cannot recall Joe out on hikes before, albeit he is a ski regular and has attended the main club lunches – welcome Joe. Also attending the regular crew – RichardSay, Philip, Stephen, DavidC, Nathan, PeterSt and me PeterT.
The day was bright and clear but with a cold bise wind still somewhat evident. My plan was to track past Les Mouilles through the wood to fields then W and NW then SW to the Fruitières de Nyon Chalet, thence up to Cabane Rochefort 1388m for apèros. After that we would travel WSW through the wonderful “secret” forest before a drop down into Grande Combe then steeply up to La Genloière itself at 1348m.
We were all dressed well for the cold but sunny conditions, even Stephen could not be tempted to air his shorts. The initial part of the hike was on dry ground – there had been some doubt as to whether or not we should have packed snow shoes, but as this was the first hike of the hiking season, and as I had managed the same hike without such kit only 11 days earlier, I determined that we should just about be able to manage without. In the event this was just about the case.
We formed a sensible line with Stephen me and Kobie at the front, generally Joe and Plato to the rear. The two dogs seemed the get on tolerably well, but mostly happily ignored each other.
(I looked up the sayings of Plato. The one I liked was – “Wise men talk because they have something to say; fools, because they have to say something”)
Very soon we were up in the sun at the Fruitières de Nyon, Chalet Devant.
There was no long stop planned here as we needed to bash on up the Cabane Rochefort for apèro refreshment, and where some Luins was joined by brandy from the famous bottle.
Calling ahead to warn Maria that we would be likely arriving closer to 1 pm than 12.30pm, I hoped that Robert would be OK on his walk up from La Givrine. Philip decided not to branch out on his own, but stayed with us, as the snow was becoming deeper with not a lot of sign of activity on the trail ahead.
Broaching the top at 1400m we turned slightly left to follow the path down along the ridge to the gap in the wall to the secret forest. Only here the snow depth completely covered the wall.
We found that the lack of snow shoes was just about justifiable.
Suddenly we arrived and entered the Buvette, meeting Robert who had safely made it too. There was a nice log fire to keep us all toasty.
Two teams tackled the fondu offering, and it seemed that the cheese was performing well. My croute was exceptional too.
We had some very pleasant Chasselas to help it all go down. Tarts were enjoyed for dessert, then coffees.
The was much to discuss and debate about the problems of the world, many stemming from Trump and the Iran war, fuel crisis looming, the Ukraine war ongoing, climate change tipping points etc. Scottish independence gained little traction. Outside Kobie played occasionally with Moos and Zwichon giving me some rest while eating.
PeterSt had to be home by 4pm so he and Robert, Richard and Philip all left with 35 minutes to spare to meet the 14.57 train at La Givrine. The remainding 6 of us chose my plan to track directly back down into the Grande Combe again, then back up and over steeply down into Combe Grasse to pick up the mountain road that leads ESE down to Tancouez.
At one point we wondered where Joe had got too. It seems that Plato was loth to leave the Buvette, he has a herding instinct and wanted to herd all the folk still there to join us. We finally spotted them coming down and across to rejoin the party.
I knew that the path into Combe Grasse was steep, and being covered in snow made it not much easier, but we all made it safely down onto the mountain road, still also with snow.
From there it was a pleasant stroll back down in the warming sun. I made it 12 km and 546m (but my I-watch seems inaccurate and Nathan’s 490m seems more true).
Our drive back (Stephen, Kobie and me) was only slightly marred by getting stuck in yet another jam on the autoroute. We listened to some good Coldplay Everyday Life to help us through.
Thanks for the company everyone. The hiking season 2026 has started. Maybe less snow next time.
POSTSCRIPT
Sunday 12 April 26
Maria had indicated that the Buvette closes on 13 April 2026 for the season. As I felt that I had left 10 days ago without saying a proper goodbye, I decided to re-hike the last route to La Genolière and give them a bottle of bubbly. It was a wet Sunday and Kobie and I waited until midday when the worst of the rain had past and it was merely moist. From Tancouez to the Buvette we encountered only one other party, the hills were damp and quiet. There was still plenty of snow in the forest and on shaded slopes – it’s going to take weeks for that to melt.
We knocked and entered at 1.40 pm with Moos and Zwikon there but no guests at all and signs that the team were packing up. There was some tart evident and Maria came down hearing Kobie’s bark. I gave her the bottle and was provided with a coffee and tart on the house. Then Maria fetched from a shelf a pair of gloves – my nice pair with wrist loops that I had left there 10 days ago and had still not noticed that they were missing! We thanked each other. Maria said that she and her team (family or friends?) move to a Mt Tendre chalet for the summer to look after the cows up there, sadly there is no buvette at that chalet. The Genolière Buvette will reopen on 6 Novembre. Put that in your agendas:
Kobie and I left and returned to Tancouez the same way as on the Gin hike. The steep snowy slope which caused consternation before, was devoid of snow and was slippy in the rain. Kobie found an impressive leg bone with a furry “tail” which he proudly carried for 45 minutes all the way to the car. As it was wet, there were many worms out on the tarmac and tracks, looking for their fortunes.
