Early indications from Meteo Suisse that the weather would be variable had not changed on the morning of the ride. The rain was due to set in at some time after 13h. So we had the opportunity of a morning ride, early lunch and then home. Seven Bikers initially signed up for the outing but this was reduced to 5 after some concerns about the forecast and/or concerns about current fitness levels.
Stephen PeterSo e-PeterSt newly-e-Mervyn e-Richard
We gathered outside the Everness Hotel at the earlier time of 9h, to allow for maximum exercise before lunch. Mervyn and PeterSo had arrived back in Switzerland the night before, by chance both on the same late arrival from Denmark and both keen to take up the challenge that the leader had indicated previously:
“Route will essentially take the cycle track 1/46 from Tannay along until Vinzel/Bursins where we’ll cross the motorway to cycle route 488. Potential for a coffee. At Coinsins we’ll change to our well-cycled route 50 from Genolier to Gingins and an opportunity for a Bonmont climb before descending to Crassier for an Italian lunch (La Semplicita). After lunch fast home!”
Happy and dry….for the moment
We set off at speed, which the e-bikers soon realised was to ensure that on the flat they were disadvantaged by their 25km/h limit. The leader also took the precaution of not advising in detail the route so that they would have to stay behind, following. Which the pack did closely…..Mervyn especially seeming to enjoying the now effortless cycling. Some of the routes were new to the leader but, thanks to the Swiss efficiency, these cycle tracks are well signposted with signs at any junction where a choice has to be made. The 1/46 route, picked up at Tannay, winds its way through Founex, Céligny, Crans, Nyon, Prangins to Gland and beyond. This proved to be a pleasure, passing through the villages and countryside avoiding most of the main roads, with the added bonus of seeing two light aircraft take off as we skirted the Gland aerodrome. By the time we reached Gland, there were hints that a coffee stop might be appropriate and we stopped at a suitable café by the side of the road. Coffee and tea were kindly sponsored by Richard. A quick weather check confirmed that the rain was still due at ca. 13.30h, so no need to change plans but we did need to press on to reach the safety of the restaurant.
We followed the route out of Gland with one indecisive moment as the route sign had been displaced on the ground whilst extensive piping work disrupted the track. We soon picked up the correct way and followed parallel to the motorway from Gland up to Gilly, where we diverged from the 1/46 and crossed over to join the 488. This took us on a devious path above the route du vin, in and out of vineyards and through hamlets, descending to the main road for a short period before climbing up to Begnins and then descending to Vich and onto Coinsins, past the auberge. Grey clouds were gathering and there was a change in the wind, indicating the coming storm. Legs for the non-e-bikers were getting weary and the e-bikers for once were ahead. We climbed up the gentle but long slope to Genolier. No time for resting, we pedalled on up the last short hill to Givrins, past our favourite coffee stop, and onto the well-known path to Gingins. A Bonmont hill was not an option with the storm clock ticking, so we took the lower road through the Bonmont golf course to La Rippe and from there the enjoyable downhill ride to our restaurant in Crassier. We arrived soon after 12h, dry and ready for sustenance.
We had not booked a table as we thought that the weather might encourage us to press on home. As it was, we all decided to stop for lunch but the inside tables were all occupied. There was space outside so we installed ourselves! Waitress service seemed somewhat slow, so Richard crossed the road to the Boeuf Rouge and discovered there were inside spaces and an enthusiastic proprietor there. However, during his absence, the waitress did appear, so we ordered five beers and 5 plats du jour: mushroom stuffed ravioli with cream sauce and a salad to start. As we finished the salad, the rain started and steadily increased in intensity. Happily, there was a overhead blind which extended to cover most of the table, with only PeterSt still receiving a slight dampening. Mervyn updated us on his “stan” travels which were obviously quite an adventure and these are interesting countries to visit before they are fully on the tourist list. The plat du jour was supplemented with a dessert and coffee….nothing to lose now as we all knew the ride back would be very wet!
We reluctantly climbed back on the wet saddles and prepared ourselves for the thorough soaking which even the waterproofs couldn’t prevent. We separated rapidly, not lingering over farewells, as we made as quick a progress as possible to our respective homes. Warm baths and showers were taken once we got back.
All agreed that the pre-lunch route was a pleasant change from our usual well-beaten tracks with excellent cycling conditions. The short afternoon ride was atrocious! In the end, ca. 60km, 635m climb and an average speed of ca. 21km/h was recorded….a good day’s exercise.
Much discussion over the last year had been devoted to who of the non e-bikers would crack first. This impasse was broken by an unmissable e-bike offer at Jumbo when all three likely converters bought at the same time. So PeterT, Mark2Ts and Mervyn are all now proud easy riders.
Six GIN Bikers rallied to the fortnightly call to take to their saddles and pedal the local hills. The outing challenge presented to test our new e-bikers was sensibly considered too much of an early season challenge for one of the initial participants without any e-assistance. So, in the event the party was made up of:
Stephen PeterS e-PeterT e-Mark2Ts e-Thatcher (who also had a new e-bike….but not his first)
Unified team tops but non-unified machines
At this point I should apologise to PeterS for suggesting in earlier emails that at his young age (10 years below the outing’s collective average) he would consider an e-bike, let alone actually own one. To prove the point he cycled to and from the usual Everness Hotel starting point from his home in Genthod, adding considerable distance for his well-tuned muscular legs.
The outline plan was: “We’ll head towards Arnex on an indirect route before tackling a half-Bonmont warm up climb on the way towards Genolier. Somewhere along this first part we’ll stop for an invigorating coffee. Then on up the Genolier hill (which was notably boycotted on a previous outing), Le Muids and Le Vaud before the welcome descent to Gilly and an AVS lunch menu there.
After lunch the way is mostly flat, if a little further than on some other rides, with a siesta reward at the home destinations.“
Good to his word, the Bleader led the group initially in the opposite direction to the lunch point at Gilly but soon started heading in a more direct line towards Arnex, through Signy, Grens and up to Gingins. Uncertainly of route was the only way to keep the e-bikes behind and prevent them exercising their full turbo potential. However, in achieving this aim the Bleader bypassed his intended route to the half Bonmont climb….a blessing that paid dividends later on the final uphill stage to Le Vaud. Our back Marker, now termed e-sweeper, was also timing his move as he learnt the characteristics of his bike only picked up the night before and being ridden for the first time.
Coffee was taken at our Givrins favourite boulangerie, with thanks to PeterT. Unfortunately, they wouldn’t accept in payment any of the 20000 Co-op points he had collected from purchase of his new bike.
All relaxed and non fatigued….at this point
The route to lunch was now significantly uphill and the e-bikers revelled in their freedom to run through the different levels of assistance and enjoy the thrill of smooth and effortless overtaking of anyone without similar aid. PeterS and Stephen manfully did their best to slipstream behind the others and pretend that they were enjoying the additional health benefits of the greater effort expended. PeterT in particular was riding a new high of the joys of sweat-free hill climbing with time to appreciate anew the surrounding views and not focus on the tarmac immediately ahead.
We regrouped at Le Vaud, which has a disappointing elevation of about 800m for the effort expended to get there. However, from here it is a great downhill (mostly) sweep through Burtigny to Gilly with fantastic views over the lake. Thoughts that non e-bikes would now come into their own were dispelled as the 25kph limit for e-bikes doesn’t apply downhill and we all proceeded at speed together directly to the Auberge Communale at Gilly.
All downhill from here
The restaurant has an excellent AVS menu: 3 courses for 25 SFr including a glass of wine. Between us we sampled the entire choice of salad or soup; fish, meat or vegetarian; rhubarb tart or profiteroles ; sandwiched between a beer and coffee.
Rhubarb tart was good but the profiteroles were the winners.
The route back from Gilly is flat if a little long after a full lunch. PeterT and Thatcher broke off at Gland to head down to the lake road, due to MéteoSuisse warnings of rain, whilst the rest of us stayed high and ran the gauntlet. In the event, the upper group was spared any rain but did find a particularly muddy section of unfinished track by the new buildings adjacent to the Signy Shopping Centre. Mark’s bike was duly christened. This group separated at Arnex, after meeting Ralph entertaining his 3 grandchildren in the communal playground…..it looked as if he might have preferred to have been out biking with us.
59km round trip from the Everness and 720m climb was recorded.
St. George’s day and two true Englishmen and one Welshman stepped up to the challenge of the Swiss and French roads and tracks. Admittedly, Mark2Ts only applied the afternoon before, concerned that excessive celebration of a certain notable birthday might put him at a disadvantage….especially since an e-bike had not been amongst his presents. However, with already 8 apologies, the leader was all too happy to boost the participation by 50% and craft a ride without excessive of climbing.
The outline of the ride had been shared: “I have devised a gentle ride with stops as needed. The general direction is from the Everness to Grilly, along the train track to Gex, onto Échenevex and down to Versonnex for lunch at Sur l’Ardoise. After a leisurely meal we can head back via Collex and the Versoix woods.”
It was a rare occasion that the party consisted solely of conventional bikes without an e-bike in sight. However, there are definitely moves amongst Mark and Mervyn to progress to battery-aided cycling. It is testament to their tenacity that they don’t want to concede before a certain PeterT, who in turn holds similar sentiment. It was suggested that a negotiation position for 3 e-bikes could resolve this stand off. Anyway, I digress.
Pedalling their craft on St George’s Day
Stephen, Mervyn and Mark set off at a leisurely pace from the Everness Hotel to the track the other side of the closed road between the Chavannes Shopping Centre and Chavannes des Bois, running alongside the French border. Those with thin tyres soon discovered that the track itself could benefit from some repair and had an early vibro-massage. Once onto the railway track at Grilly, the cycling was smoother and we could really enjoy being out in the nature. Although a little fresh at first the increasing blood circulation (and over layers) kept us warm. We allowed sufficient space between us to each feel at one with the surroundings but with stops as necessary to permit regrouping. By the time we reached Gex, there was a mood to stop for the mid-morning drink. However, despite at least 5 restaurants or bistros in or near the main square not one was open at 10.30h for the needs of passing cyclists or, indeed, for locals. We were pointed to a boulangerie a little outside the town, happily in the direction we wanted to head. This served our needs well.
Fortified , we tackled the first and only real hill climb of the day. This took us onto the upper road to Echenevex and past the Auberge des Chasseurs (which under new management is getting very good reviews). Although still early for lunch, we agreed to stop at the Maison Blanche Golf Club to enjoy the view from their terrace, but the leader chose the incorrect route which took us downhill and away from this destination into undiscovered territory. Deciding not to retrace the uphill ride, we continued to the original luncheon destination in Versonnex. As the route had not been researched, the line was far from direct but, helped by Mark’s handlebar mounted phone, we pioneered rustic French towns, beautiful wooded tracks as well as some rather more stony paths. We arrived at the reasonable hour of 12.30h for lunch and a table was found for us on the terrace of the Sur l’Ardoise.
Previously undiscovered leafy and sunlit glades were the reward for the pioneers
For 26 Euros a person we enjoyed a three course meal with beverages and coffees rounding up to a reasonable 40 Euros a head (tip included). As always with this restaurant the choice, quality and service was good. Stephen did comment on the “minceur” quantity of his main course but by the time the dessert had been consumed he felt more than adequately fed without being over full for the return journey. Conversation was up to usual GIN standards with a variety of subjects from wine costs, repainting costs, pigeon proofing solar panels, benefits of emeritus professorships, neighbourly re-grassing techniques and even touching upon topical middle east events.
After lunch it was a short ride back into Switzerland and then a delightful pedal through the Versoix Woods to the Chavannes Shopping Centre, where we split up to head back on the most direct paths to our individual homes.
In all, a round distance from the Everness of about 35kms and 450m climb was measured with small additions for individual routes to and from there.
The first outing of 2026, after an early Easter, took place in glorious sunshine and a springtime warmth. There was still snow on the Jura as the snow shoeing group had discovered, without their snow shoes, the week before. Four GIN members responded to the invitation to test out their legs and/or batteries in this early season: PeterT, Philip, Paul and Stephen. We had an identical number of e-bikes and pure muscle power. The apologies came from a wide global distribution covering the USA, South Africa, UK, Mallorca and due to competing activities for those more local.
We met at our usual starting point of the Everness Hotel in Chavannes at 10h. Both Paul and Philip had already covered some distance having utilised their e-bikes to cycle from their respective homes. Philip was helped in his final direction finding with Peter picking him up whilst he was heading in the opposite direction to the hotel. As promised by the leader, we set off at a leisurely pace in the direction of Geneva, backtracking the way Paul had just ridden, along the cycle route 50. This took us to the Versoix woods where we headed for France via Sauverny, stopping at an intriguing brocante where drinks were only served from 15h.
Old Masters hopeful of finding an Old Master
Sauverny centre allowed Paul to add to his reading as he took advantage of the book loan cabinet at the village fountain.
Reading matter loaded and ready again for the trail.
From Sauverny, we took the back route to Grilly and then onto the old railway track to Divonne and beyond. There had been a plan to stop for coffee at our favourite boulangerie in Givrins but as Crassier loomed into sight it seemed appropriate to stop here and not wait a further 30 minutes and the first uphill slopes. Peter was starting to suffer from sore wrists (as well as unused cycling legs) and sought help at the Crassier cycle shop. Alas, they did not have the handlebar extenders he was looking for but they did have very top of the range e-bikes for those technically minded and with a large bank balance. He resisted a potential trial ride, still hopeful that he would not be the first of a new wave of e-bikers in the group. Philip kindly picked up the tab for the coffees….certainly a lot less financially damaging than a new bike from the adjacent shop.
Invigorated with the caffeine, the leader set off at a slightly increased pace up towards Gingins, mostly avoiding being caught by the chasing peleton although, occasionally, e-Paul demonstrated his power reserve. By the time we reached Genolier, the leader was pumped and ready to tackle the highlight of the ride: the Genolier hill past the clinic. The rest of the group did not share his enthusiasm and opted instead for the descent to Coinsins and our booked lunch table. Undaunted, Stephen persevered on his upward planned route and managed to join the others, seated at the table, just as their drinks arrived.
The Auberge de la Réunion has a simple, plentiful and economic set menu and consequently is well frequented. The terrace on the warm afternoon was full but service was efficient and friendly. Unfortunately, our waitress was a little too hasty in trying to deliver the food and Peter’s steak and frites did an unexpected pirouette from her hand onto the paving, shattering the plate and liberally distributing its contents. Peter’s longer wait a little longer for his meal was rewarded with an unexpected steak supper for Kobie. Two steaks, one jarret de porc and one veal kidney meal ( and maybe a beer or two) fuelled a lively discussion around the table. This meandered from the collection and disposal of caterpillar larvae, to the communication methods of caterpillars, to the love life of Wallace (guess who knew about this?), to the use of AI for story telling and even some topical comments about recent activities of a certain US President.
Replete and thinking about the shortest way home.
Lunch over, we climbed back onto our bikes and sought the direct routes to our respective homes. This resulted in Paul leaving us in Duillier to head for Nyon station, Peter and Stephen in Borex going in separate directions and Philip was last seen heading for Crassier hoping to find his way to the old train track and eventually home.
A thoroughly enjoyable first outing of the season although feedback from the other non e-biker suggests that more training might be necessary to prevent post ride aches and pains. In total the Genolier hill climber counted 50k and 500m climb with an average speed of 20kph. The others would have done less climb and the majority more distance.
The forecast showed no precipitation in sight just a little low cloud to mask the sun. Excellent cycling weather….. especially if we could get above the cloud! Seven GIN Bikers signed up for the outing which promised the usual “at least one hill” as well a hearty lunch and the usual comradery.
Mark2Ts Mervyn e-Paul PeterD PeterT e-Thatcher Stephen
Six of the group arrived at the Everness Hotel at the planned 10h, only Mark seemed to be absent. Perhaps the change of timing from the usual 09.30h had thrown him or perhaps a little longer mental preparation was necessary. Phone calls failed to contact him. In the event, it seems that he took a novel route which was longer than expected. However, when he did arrive, he arrived in style: he was the only one of the group to be wearing shorts on this fresh autumnal day.
All present and almost correct
We headed towards the Versoix woods, passing a new barrier designed to stop any motorists who thought this path would be an acceptable bye pass of the lengthy road closure on the usual route to Chavanne de Bois. The ride through the woods was delightful: dry, flat and with beautiful autumn colours. We stopped for coffee at the Vielle Batie Golf Club where we received a warm welcome and warm coffee/tea. There were a few golfers trying their hand on the driving range and the 9 hole pitch and putt course. One of Thatcher’s neighbours appeared with grandchildren. Junior clubs sized, they went off to start a potential career in golf (the children that is…..too late for the grandparents!). Paul kindly volunteered the coffee as a recognition that this outing had enabled him to reach 10,000km on his bike this year. Bravo!
The gentle climb up towards Cessy and Gex on paper seems just that but after a relaxing rest it somehow seems more demanding. The peloton spread out with the e-bikers at the front, accompanied by PeterT, who seemed to have a point to prove. The BLeader did his best to keep the group together and encourage the less speedy. By the time we arrived at Gex, the major part of the climb was still ahead of us. We reassembled adjacent to an e-bike hire hub which generated the usual conversation about whom of the non e-bikers would succumb to electronic aid first. There is still a lot of pride attached to pure muscle power riding. Mark thought that the time is approaching but was not prepared to act on the spur of the moment and rent one of the bikes from the stand. So, with the tough hill ahead and Wattage low, he decided to head back home for a comfortable ride and early siesta.
The rest of us gritted our teeth and headed through Gex and up on the road to the Col de la Faucille. The road itself zigs and zags it’s way up the hill and past our lunchtime destination, the restaurant Le Florimont. This has two disadvantages: firstly it is a lot longer and secondly there is a lot of traffic to contend with compared to the back route. Unfortunately, the back route being shorter for the same amount of elevation gain is consequently much steeper. Memories from earlier tackling of this direct ascent some years previously had faded (indeed, the Bikers had cycled to a GIN lunch here) and the level of effort required forgotten, replaced by the warm satisfaction of the well-oiled lunch. The climb rivals any of the other usual GIN Bikers challenges. The group strung out. PeterT determined not to be at the back forged ahead. The e-bikers, Paul and Thatcher, unworried about charge anxiety as they had plenty to spare, could enjoy the colourful seasonal display on the Jura. The rest of us had heads down, concentrating on the tarmac and sweating profusely as each pedal turn challenged the ageing leg muscles and lung capacity.
One by one the restaurant destination was reached. When 5/6ths of us were there the beers were ordered. When the sixth member had not appeared 30 minutes after the first, some concern was expressed. However, we had no doubts that PeterD would appear for beer. Some minutes later, the BLeader thought that a more positive effort should be made and managed to make phone contact and received a reassurance that our party would soon be complete. Definitions of “soon” can differ but eventually the BLeader started walking down the road in search of the lost rider. A further call and an acknowledgement that all was not well and maybe there would be a spare beer at the lunch table. Not a happy outcome and the incidence of a lost GIN biker would not make for a relaxed lunch. Stephen returned to the restaurant to impart this sorry story only to find both Peters sitting at the end of the table and the spare beer being consumed. In his keenness, PeterD had cycled right past Le Florimont and further on up the track before realising that he had expended more energy than necessary.
Pierre perdu tucks in
The other Pierre does the same
The last time Thatcher had been in this restaurant was 35 years previously. Apparently, little has changed….certainly the place mats were dog-earred. Lunch was excellent and plentiful. The menu du jour was salad, pierrade with chicken and then a café gourmand, all for a modest 25 Euro. Stephen offered drinks in recognition of the last formal ride of the season, Mervyn offered top up drinks including large digestifs (of a much more satisfactory quality than some other recent ones in Barme on the 2 day walk) in celebration of a recent birthday and Thatcher offered lunch as a thank you to the GIN organisers. What comradery!
Replete, relaxed and still a large digestif to round off the meal
Fully relaxed and with that warm glow from good food and drink, we wrapped ourselves up for the chill factor of the descent. It was an enjoyable downhill all the way, retracing our path until the old railway track in Gex, where Paul separated to head directly for home. The rest of us sped along the gravel track towards Divonne with the knowledge that we were not far from a comfortable chair and rest. Unfortunately, the progress was impeded by construction works just before Grilly and we had to descend a steep bank to the alternative road. The first there gingerly slid down the slope whilst Thatcher did an impressive forward roll, happily with only minor damage to his bike and no apparent personal injury.
At Grilly the group divided further with only a couple benefiting from the short new extension to the railway track, which avoids the earlier detour through the town. By the time Divonne was reached everyone was on their individual way home.
This was another exceptional day’s ride and a fitting one to end the formal season. The discussion on e-bikes continues but there is more weight towards the benefits after an ascent of this nature. The capability to go further to new cycling areas also is in favour of e-bikes. PeterT, for one, categorically stated that he would not attempt this route again without electronic assistance but he still is reluctant to set the trend. We’ll see what challenges the Bleader sets next season and what machines are being ridden.
Statistics for the day: +/-42km and ca. 650m ascent
Into October and still the weather forecast was indicating a sunny day. However, we hadn’t prepared ourselves fully for the chill of the morning which carried on throughout the day. Seven GIN Bikers met at the Everness at 09.30h, some wearing shorts and some having changed to their winter wardrobe ith long leggings. The starting team were:
Mervyn Mark2Ts (back after many absences) PeterD (back after some absences) PeterT (back) e-Paul e-Philip Stephen (Bike Leader)
Paul arrived last having been contemplating the wasted fruit on the ground in the neighbouring orchards…..seemingly good fruit but for some reason left to recycle into the ground. His panier basket seemed fuller than usual.
At this stage in the biking season, muscles should be fully formed and lungs ready for the more strenuous rides. E-bikers circumnavigate this need and can perform at all times but the purists can be caught short if they haven’t been active on a regular basis. The BL had chosen a route to test physical condition… the famous 3 hills circuit of Bonmont, Mourex and Vesancy.
“Cycle gently towards the Bonmont climb. Warm up with the climb up to 727m. Down to Crassier and a coffee. Along the old train track, through Divonne and onto the Mourex hill test. Down and then up to Vesancy. Down to the Accor Parfait for lunch. Home after lunch.” Compromise was made in the shape of a coffee break after the Bonmont hill and serious calorific restocking at lunch.
We set off in the now usual circuitous route towards the first hill, passing a fellow GIN member, Martin Vaughan, walking his dog, Terence. Martin declined the offer of joining the group blaming an ageing bike with a puncture in his shed.
PeterD commented at one stage that the route to the base of the Jura was a little too wayward….but he hadn’t been on the previous outing to make a balanced judgement. The group spread out considerably even in this warm up period and it became obvious who had not been exercising regularly and/or had older equipment. The potential to switch to e-bikes was discussed again but there are some stubborn classical cyclist in the group and they do not want to be seen to crack first. PeterT set off at pace up the Bonmont hill, anxious to dispel the demons of the previous ride. The rest followed with the e-bikers looking decidedly more relaxed and the BL doing somewhat of a corralling role to ensure no-one was left behind. At the 727m junction, the wait for the usual photo seemed prolonged as the backMarker was running on low Wattage. The photo was taken with the potential opportunity to photoshop in any missing member later and then the congregated group departed downhill, eager to get a warming coffee in Crassier.
Time and tide wait for no backmarker
The BL, feeling the responsibility associated with his position, backtracked to ensure that the missing biker was still pedalling uphill…which he was only a couple of hundred metres down the road. The summit attained Mark and Stephen sped down appreciating anew the chill of the day and the impact of wind chill. They arrived at the coffee stop in time to add their order to the open bill, which PeterT kindly settled, adding in some patisserie as well as a bar of house made chocolate.
Happy BL but doubtful GIN Bikers….where are we going next?
At this stage it became apparent that the group was going to fracture. PeterT was called away due an unwell Jill and Kobie, who was in need of his daily part-Everest ascent. Philip had earlier mentioned that he would not be able to complete the circuit as he had to get home for other commitments. Mark part-accompanied Philip on his way before finding an easier route to lunch, avoiding two thirds of the hills on the planned itinerary. The remaining 4 of us manfully adhered to the predetermined route and enjoyed (?) the challenge of the Mourex uphill slog followed by the lesser Vesancy climb. Even e-Paul found that he had to work hard….maybe a case of too many apples in his bag? However, we all made it, age and fitness levels deferring to sheer will-power.
The downhill from Vesancy in the direction of Divonne, via the hamlet of Saint Gix, was a joy apart from that persistent chill factor and we got to the Accord Parfait in good time to have a round of drinks before Mark joined us. Except Mervyn, who decided on the excellent maigret de canard, the rest of us opted for the three course 19 Euro menu, although Paul would have had the copious spare ribs had they not been out of stock. As indicated earlier, the three menu courses were plentiful: pâté en croute with salade, cheeseburger and fries, and an interesting desert of chocolate sauce with mint ice-cream and a thick layer of whipped cream (for those who could manage this). Paul’s often fruitless request for “super croustillant” fries was met on the second attempt as a fresh bowl of indeed crispy chips was supplied without argument by our friendly waiter.
Refreshed, vitalled and warmed we wrapped up again for the quick descent through Divonne and to our respective homes. Such was the eagerness to get to that siesta that the farewell formalities were dispensed with and we peeled off at our individual appropriate points. Overall ca. 50km and 750m ascent with quite large variations depending upon the individual.
A hike organiser needs to keep a close eye on weather conditions. So it was with some apprehension when the late summer from the previous week turned into a forecast for early winter with heavy rain and potential for snow for a planned 2 day hike in Barme. So much had been promised by the organiser in terms of stunning scenery only available in fine weather. 12 enthusiastic participants had responded to an early call with happy memories of the Tour of the Muverans and the Tour of the Dents du Midi still in mind. When one potential participant, with a Philippines’ warm weather habit, literally got cold feet, it was an indication that the rest of the group would have to be consulted to check on their resolve. Happily, the first response from a member (one happy to frolic in the snow) set the tone and suggested that this GIN group is more than used to adversity. After this, no-one else dared back out and the organiser had shared the weight of decision-making responsibility.
Backpacks were loaded with wet weather gear and layers of warm clothing (and in some cases copious supplies for canine friends) and then covered with waterproof membranes. The journey from respective homes to the Grand Paradis parking meeting place in the Portes du Soleil at the far end of the valley from Champéry was mostly smooth. The 11 eager participants arrived on time and were soon talking about the sole hiker who had decided that the best waterproofing was bare legs…. well, the Scots do have experience in this domain. The party consisted of Mark2Rs, Mervyn, MikeH + Rocco, MikeM + Nessie, Nathan, PeterS, PeterT + Kobie, Ralph, RichardS, Rob and Stephen (leader). As was commented, mad dogs and Englishmen were certainly present on this occasion as well as a representative sample of other nationalities with similar tendencies.
All present and correct. The team sets off.
The dogs set off excitedly, happy to also be part of this adventure, and the group followed in a more measured manner. There was a request for a coffee stop but unfortunately the one suitable restaurant had decided to take a few days off. So, we started the initial climb, past the closed restaurant and up towards the threatening sky and our luncheon spot. The rain held back and as those aging bodies warmed up there was perhaps a greater understanding of a choice of shorts. We started to find our rhythm with a group of usual front runners and backmarkers and those happy to be in the middle or alternating between positions. Plenty of time had been allotted for this shortish but steep ca. 500m climb to the Refuge de Bonavau at 1552m.
On the way up. No rain and warm….maybe the Scotsman has got it right
Nathan, with his dedicated trek tracker, is a dangerous companion to a hike organiser as he always seems to know in advance the exact location, elevation, steepness of climb/descent, etc. so it’s impossible to suggest any route is less arduous than reality. We arrived in good time at the refuge just as the rain started to fall and we installed ourselves in the dry as the only customers of the day. The refuge has checked the day before that we really would be coming as all their other reservations, including the overnight stays, had cancelled due to the weather forecast.
Good spirits and good beer.
Plenty of banter over lunch and memories of the first day of the Tour des Dents du Midi hike which had passed very close to here (but without lunch….a story often brought up to try, unsuccessfully, to embarrass Mervyn, the organiser of that great outing). The mountain fare was good with mostly a selection of croûtes and omelettes chosen, washed down with sufficient beer but leaving room for the tarte aux myrtilles before coffees. The dogs too had their nutrition, Kobie only being satisfied when the 80CHF bag of mega-chews was eventually opened. Unfortunately, we did have to leave this warm cocoon and venture out into the cold and now increasingly wet world. However, it appeared that all was not well with Rocco and his concerned owner, Mike, who felt that there was canine over-excitement. He took the difficult decision to head back down to Grand Paradis and onto St. Luc, a day earlier than initially planned.
After lunch outlook was not so promising.
By chance, Mike missed the wettest, muddiest, slipperiest, and overall not a very pleasant climb up to the col at 1793m and then sliding downhill to Barme. Normally this is a short and scenic walk but in these conditions, with little visibility and heavy rain, it seemed unusually long….atlhough Rob did claim to like these familiar conditions. However, expectations had been set for the rest of the hike…..Day 2 must be better, mustn’t it?
A pause at the high point before descent into Barme
The Cantine de Barmaz was welcoming, serving us hot drinks on arrival as we shed wet clothing and recovered from the afternoon’s exertions. The owner/waiter didn’t seem over stressed as we were the only customers (although another couple appeared for the evening meal…..from where and to where we do not know).
A warm, dry haven at last.
Out of the rain….time for a warm drink and relaxation
Feeling slightly less damp we moved operations to the bedrooms where the only predetermined arrangements were for the dogs and their owners, one individual room and one agreed double room. The rest of us looked around and hoped that we had chosen room mates with no unpleasant nocturnal habits. From the discussion the following morning it seems that we mostly succeeded. The rooms were compact, especially for PeterT and MikeM who had to share their accommodation with Kobie (no need to mention Nessie as she seemed to slot in unnoticed anywhere). There was a relief that MikeH and Rocco didn’t have to share this room as the owner was adamant that there could only be one room with dogs.
Dog tired …..but where do Peter and Mike sleep?
The bathroom facilities were also interesting with two closed showers , three basins and one open toilet all within a confined area. Happily, we discovered much more private toilets downstairs for the more meaningful visits.
After a change of clothes and a time for general relaxation, we congregated for the apéros before making our meal choices. With a room to ourselves, equipped with a stove, we soon were enjoying the warmth and letting the afternoon conditions recede into the distant memory (some poetic licence here). Were we all game for the game on the menu, especially when we were told by the owner that this was local. Wines were not quite so local but came from Saillon, just a little further down the Valais. Since MikeH had made a generous parting gesture of offering us some drinks, we decided to opt for one of the better bottles on the list to toast our friendship at his expense. It was very drinkable and, unfortunately, set the standard for the other bottles consumed, much to the concern of the leader/accountant. In fact, we didn’t hold back in this convivial atmosphere and enjoyed not only ample good wine but also copious helpings of cerf and/or sanglier in rack, medaillon or entrecote form with all the trimmings, without forgetting starters and desserts. Such were the helpings that Kobie benefitted from a large meal of left-overs the following morning….a veritable doggie bag. By the time we were at the coffee stage several were mellow enough to be persuaded to have a glass of the homemade pine liqueur. Sadly, the accountant was also mellow enough to allow this. Added to crème brulée in small quantities this liqueur was truly excellent but in pure form it transformed to a green sludge with a very unpleasant aftertaste, rivalling the worst of Richard’s flask offerings. Amazingly, Mervyn and PeterT seemed immune to these flavours (aftermath of COVID?) and were happy to help out those with more sensitive palates. Even they could not finish all 7 glasses.
A great choice of chasse and wine. No prices on the latter…..
Game for this plate of food.
Happiness is a warm room, warm food and warm company
To rival any of Richard’s
Replete and tired from the day’s efforts, people started drifting off to bed at an unusually early hour, leaving a hard core to have a final rinsing beer and to listen to the calls of amorous wild animals across the valley, mingled with the bells from more domesticated animals. The night passed without major incident, no loud snores or rampant dogs, just the frequent creak of old doors as aging men needed to make use of the open plan bathroom. The dog room had the worst of this as the only place for Kobie was in front of the door, causing a large obstacle for exit. Ironically, on an informal count the following morning, the human content of this room claimed the maximum number of nocturnal reliefs.
Is that sunshine behind us?
A new day dawned……and it was still raining. However, there seemed to be better visibility at times. MeteoSuisse promised a drier day from 09.30h until 16h, almost perfect for the planned walk. So we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and repacked our backpacks ready for the rain to stop….which it did but visibility was still poor. Backpacks were left at the Cantine as we would be passing by again on our final way down and could pick them up them. The walk up from the Cantine to the end of the Barme valley can be spectacular under good conditions. We had tantalising glimpses between rising and falling cloud and started to gain an appreciation of our location. New snow on the peaks added an additional quality to those ethereal glimpses. We even managed to see some chamois high up on the hill, which Kobie felt obliged to get closer to. By the time we reached the end of the valley, we had a fairly good view of the impressive Dents Blanches and, looking back, the Dents de Midi were also making a partial appearance.
Majestic Dents du Midi
We met your cousins last night….
Richard, Mark and MikeM decided against a longer uphill loop to see the bird station at the Col de Bretolet. This added an extra 3-4 kms to the circuit. Instead, they took the ridge walk back towards the lunchtime Cantine des Dents Blanches at a leisurely pace (allowing time to find a wayward Nessie on a couple of occasions) and secured our table in the near empty restaurant. The rest of us made the detour. This involved a steep up and as we climbed the visibility reduced. At the top, on the ridge, we had zero view to our left and to our right and it started to snow. Not ideal conditions for seeing birds.
Up into the cloud and the bird ringing station
As we began the tranverse across to the bird ringing station, there was a hint of movement in the cloud cover. As we arrived, there was a biblical moment as the clouds parted and showed the Dents Blanches appeared in all their glory. Magnificent.
Rock and awe
The Lead Ringer, one of the two paid employees at this Swiss Ornithological Institute station along with several volunteers, gave us a fascinating description of their work and trends in migration. Over 10000 birds are ringed annually between April and October, at least half of them being chaffinches (what is a chaffinch in French?). Migration trends clearly indicate errors in President Trump’s theories on (or lack of) climate change. As we were listening we had a fly past of a bearded vulture and a griffin vulture. PeterS was able to make an internation connection with ornithological activities in South Africa. Interestingly, the work of this ringing station is not advertised strongly in Switzerland since there is a body of people who are not in favour of the stress to the birds despite the information and understanding this generates.
After three isolated months here he’ll even talk to the GIN Group
We retraced our steps enjoying the view and the autumnal colours of the azaleas and myrtille plants on the hillside. Amazingly, there were plentiful berries still on the plants….if only we had picked up that myrtille comb from the Cantine. Back on the ridge, the clouds were clearing from the Portes du Soleil side and we had a good view of the new border house at the Col de Cou. Due to the time, we headed straight down and along the ridge that the alternative party had walked earlier. The views on both sides were great, enhanced in some ways by the still swirling cloud and the uncertainty of how long we would have them. The snow had stopped and it was not as muddy underfoot as the day before. We made good time despite a seemingly endless zig-zag descent through the woods along the chemin “Nature”.
We arrived at the restaurant only about 15 minutes after the reservation and reunited with the rest of the group. There was another opportunity to sample local game but for some reason we all thought that would be an over-kill. Instead, the more modest ordered salade de chevre chaud and the more gourmand went for the croute and risotto options. Some people still had room for dessert and a chance to sample another tarte aux myrtilles. The food was excellent and we marvelled how two restaurants in a small hamlet could have such good kitchens. The famous flask at last made an appearance and several sampled it’s syrupy delights. If only we had known the night before…..
Appetit refreshed. Ready for more game?
A healthy salad is a sensible choice
After lunch we recovered our backpacks and headed the direct route home. A descent of ca. 500m over 3-4km, i.e .very steep in parts. However, this was a good quality gravel track and the rain was not due until 16h. At the bottom, we passed again the closed restaurant. Although part of the initial plan to stop here, this closure was a blessing as the budget had already been blown from the excesses of the night before and the rain was starting, very much on cue. We were keen to get back to the cars. Discrete top up contributions were made to the grateful accountant, so that the books balanced.
Farewells were exchanged and we all returned back to our homes with warm memories of another memorable GIN hike. GIN really is a great organisation….friendship, exercise, tolerance and a lot of fun, despite frequent discussion over aches and pains.
Bloggers note: Many thanks for all your photographic contributions. It was not possible to use them all! I’ve chosen a representative sample without reference to who took the photo
The biking gods offered us an autumnal day with blue skies, perfect temperature and clear views. What more could be done to entice out any reticent bikers? In the event 7 of us signed up for the ride with Mike H happy to join for the lunch, if not repeat his one and only earlier group participation some years ago.
Stephen (BL) PeterT e-Paul e-Thatcher “first outing” Pete (great to have a new member!) Mervyn e-Philip
Once again the e-bikers are making inroads in the group. Pete look resplendent in his aged but appropriate cycling gear and, as we found out during the day, he is not a novice for those inclines. The performance statistics of the group has gone up by a few points. Mervyn had just returned from some days in Provence trying out e-bikes with his alternative biking group. Peter, waiting for either Mervyn or Mark2Ws to crack in terms of a switch to electric power, felt some optimism that this event is getting closer. Mervyn explained the problems of power anxiety and the weight of an e-bike without electric motor assistance. Peter’s wait continues.
The leader had promised: “The usual mixture of up, down and refreshment points. Lunch at the Auberge Communale de Gilly, which has been advertising a menu AVS for 25 CHF for 3 courses and a glass of wine….sounds too good to be true! So the plan is to meet at 09.30 at the Everness Hotel and drift down by a circuitous route to the lake road by the tennis club, a little flat cycling before starting the climb through Prangins, Trelex up to Givrins for our usual coffee spot. From there we rely upon the caffeine to get us up past the Clinic in Genolier to Le Muids, on to Bassins and Le Vaud before descending to Gilly for lunch. After lunch a slightly longer ride than customary, but mostly flat, return to our respective homes.”
The fresh and eager starting group
We met on time at the Everness. Philip had to start earlier than anticipated due to a faulty fixture to carry his bike on the car and so he cycled the 19km to the start point. However, he already felt that the full circuit would be too much for him (power or condition anxiety?). Stephen started off the “circuitous” route to the lake road by heading in the opposite direction to the intuitive one. Peter keenly took on the theme and led us a much more devious route than originally planned but with the advantage that we could all view his house in the distance. Stephen redirected the group onto the lake road.
It’s been a while since the group tackled the path up from the lake road through Prangins, Changins, up to Trelex and then the last hard push to the path joining Gingins to Givrins (and coffee). It is quite a demand for an AVS lunch group and it took it’s toll. Along the way, even e-biker Paul was seen doing arm exercises in transit as his grip on the handlebars had obviously caused muscle fatigue. Peter said that he would stop at Givrins, saying he was done for and blaming a hard uphill walk the previous day with Kobie (isn’t that usual?). Co-incidentally, Peter’s wife passed in the car with Kobie on route for a tamer walk. Philip confirmed that he too would head home after coffee, his residual power rating lower than other e-bikers. The rest of us looked shaken but not broken although apprehensive of the hard part of the ride after coffee.
Happiness is a coffee stop….
The Givrins coffee shop always does us well and we enjoyed the refreshments and rest in the sunshine. Philip studied the map for the way home whilst Peter seemed to be wavering, although the final decision to go on or not would have to wait until Genolier. We said farewell to Philip and the remaining 6 of us cycled on to Genolier. 5 of us arrived there and waited for the unusual back marker, Peter. Bets were made and we felt sure that he would take the downhill route. However, manly resolved overcame the easier option and, without missing a rotation of the pedals, he cycled past us and up the hill towards the clinic. Actually, that unstoppable determination continued all the way until we eventually caught up with him again in Le Vaud at the highest point of the day. The rest of us took frequent rests to allow recovery at various points on this long uphill slog. By another co-incidence, Stephen’s wife passed us in the car just before the clinic. Now one wife is a low probability but two?….where was our resident mathematician when we needed the odds to be calculated?
Le Vaud, 815m elevation. Uphill over, time to recharge the batteries.
The reward awaited. Not only the economical AVS lunch in Gilly but the long downhill sweep to get there. This was glorious with spectacular views of Lac Leman and the Alps as we (mostly) free-wheeled the long descent to lunch.
On the way down…..lunch bells ringing!
The ache of the climb was forgotten and we settled to the first beer of the day at our table on the terrace. Mike’s arrival was not up to Swiss timeliness but we respectfully waited until we were all present before ordering the food. Unfortunately, the consequence (in reality due to fact that we had booked at 13h and not 12h) was that the meat option on the menu had already been depleted. However, the alternatives of salmon or pasta, following either soup or salad was more that acceptable. Our “free” glass of chasselas was poured and more beers ordered as required and the table revived with lively conversation. This was meaty discussion ….maybe spurred on by the lack of physical meat or maybe due the presence of a non-biker who has spent too long with just a dog for company. We covered topics including the referendum on rental values of property and whether we should take a personal of “for the benefit of the greater good” positions. Somehow the later was contorted to fall in line with the former. Inheritance tax in the UK came under scrutiny as well as tax generation in a broader sense for desperate governments. We also had a lightning update on Thatcher’s explosive home electronics. Desserts and coffee were ordered and despite the attraction of a longer stay, we realised that there was a way to go home and siestas cannot wait until dinner time.
No meat but the beer option is still available….
Although the ride from Gilly is flat or on average slightly downhill it always feels a long way, which is true. The lack of blood circulation to the legs after lunch hampers easy progress. Thatcher and Paul left us just outside DuillIer to make their own way back. The remaining 4 of us cycled the paths through Asse, Signy and Borex until Arnex was in sight. Offers of a refreshment stop in Arnex were declined and the remaining 3 headed as directly as they could to their home armchairs.
Electronic measurements differed slightly but, taking the higher values, we covered 66kms and ca. 800m ascent. A great day’s outing in ideal conditions.
To ride or not to ride, that was the question…..Meteo Suisse forecast was not looking hopeful for Thursday. After an exchange of emails with the GIN Biker community, some of who were half in, some half out, some taking the mean position and some the median, and some definitely excusing themselves, the Bleader said that a definitive decision would be made at 08.30h on the morning of the outing.
The evening before everything looked pretty gloomy with an over 50% chance of rain but by the following morning PeterT felt compelled to wake up the Bleader at 07.20h with the news that there was a window of possibility. A couple of strong coffees later and after studying in detail the latest reports, Stephen agreed that it did indeed seem as if we had a rain free morning with a storm predicted over lunch and then a chance to get home in the dry. The message went out to the eagerly awaiting Bikers that it was indeed a cycling day. Silence from the ether in way of reply apart from e-Paul who had sensibly (in view of earlier weather reports) organised alternative activities for the day.
So a slighty greater than averagely keen threesome made an appearance at the Everness Hotel at 09.30h: PeterT, Stephen and rather unexpectedly Mark2Ts, who, although he had opted for the mean position on decision whether to cycle or not, had not responded to direct contact attempts an hour earlier. A suggestion to make it a short sharp ride with the famous 3 hill circuit was unceremoniously quashed and replaced with one hill, the Genolier climb, with the motivation of lunch at the auberge in Coinsins.
The Bleader led the poorly populated peloton on a zig-zag course through Celigny, Crans, Eysins, Signy and Grens towards the foot of the Bonmont climb. Excitement and habit got the better of him at this stage and he suggested slipping in an additional hill to the previously agreed plan. Mark2Ts was definitely reassessing his position to participate to the lower quartile whilst Peter compensated by moving to the upper quartile….the mean stayed constant. (What about the median? In fact, what is the median in this context?). A compromise was found where Stephen and Peter completed a short Bonmont (up to the first junction before heading downhill and not completing the full 727m elevation) whilst Mark rode on the relative flat to the boulangerie at Givrins, where we would meet for coffee.
Over the coffee and croissants, kindly supplied by a relaxed looking Mark, an updated weather review took place. The animated forecast showed a 50 minute window to complete the Genolier climb and get to the restaurant before the heavens would open with an almighty storm. Even buoyed by caffeine this seemed too much for Mark, whose resolve to continue slipped to the zero percentile. He left on the quick route home.
A relaxed moment before difficult decision making
Peter and Stephen conquered the Genolier summit and managed to get to Coinsins before the threatened downpour. Two beers, two steak and frites and two coffees later we were still waiting for the storm. A difficult decision was made to make homeward dash for it as the alternative was more beer (and dessert?).
Weathering out the impending storm
We needn’t have worried, we managed the full itinerary via Duillier, Asse, Petit Eysins and the Landi car park crossing, Eysins and back to Arnex in the dry. Peter also made the additional 7kms back home without needing raingear….although he subsequently reported he did need magnesium salts for severe cramp.
The slings and arrows of outrageous fortune were kind to us. Those with less than mean/median weather optimism missed a good ride in the dry of just under 14kms with an elevation difference of either 600m or 1065m depending whose electronic device to believe.
The last GIN ascent of the Bellevue in Morgins was in September 2021. Memories from that occasion has meant that a repeat has been discussed many times since. Stephen was in Morgins for August 1st celebrations and so this seemed like a good occasion to ask the weather gods to be kind to facilitate the taxing straight up/straight down hike with the reward of a 360 degree panorama at the summit.
Despite heavy rain a few days earlier and cold and misty weather leading up to the planned date, July 31st started sunny with blue skies and little cloud as PeterT (+ Kobie), Mervyn, Mark2Ts, Ralph and Nathan set off from the Divonne car park. There were apologies from David and Thatcher who preferred to stay across the valley in Villars, several people claiming to be out of the country, one declination on grounds of excessive inclination and unfortunate withdrawals from RichardS and Rob on medical grounds.
Stephen could enjoy a leisurely morning and saundered down to the arranged meeting place for the 09.30h arrival. The core crew arrived ahead of schedule but the planned parking spot had been cordoned off due to Morgins’ preparation for the Fête Nationale, so some rapid arm waving was needed to redirect the cars to a suitable alternative. The group now gathered made a beeline for the local boulangerie for a coffee/tea to give time to mentally and physically prepare for the impending climb.
For those who had already been on this walk before it didn’t take long for the relentless uphill climb memories to come flooding back as we set off up the road. There was a fair amount of car traffic: a reminder that we hadn’t chosen the easiest means of ascent. However, we reached the Col de Culet base camp in good time with our backmarker taking his role seriously.
A break in the clouds with emerging Mark
Base Camp – Portes de Culet 1787m
The weather seemed to be taking a turn for the worse and even though there was no rain, the clouds were moving in and visibility was decreasing. By the time we reached the top after ca. 720m climb, admirably in under 2 hours, the panoramic tableau served only as a useful table for the refreshments and snack that people had brought.
Final push to the top and a false promise of blue skies.
Point de Bellevue (2042m) not living up to its name….. but a useful table
Cava and a Chilean Viognier served as useful lubricant to an assortment of sandwiches, crisps, nuts and some unusual dried chili mango. A toast was raised to our absent friends. A red wine was also available but was left untouched (are we becoming more sensible in our increasingly mature years?) and had to be transferred to a different rucksack, to someone with stronger knees, for the descent. Actually, knees and other bodily ailments were, as usual, a dominant subject of conversation during the day. Top athletes have been known to medicate for increased performance and this group was no exception….PeterT doing it overtly.
3 bad and 5 good kneesheading down
On the way down going up.….
The clouds were starting to separate and we caught glimpses of the Dents du Midi with fresh snow on their peaks from recent days as well as the surrounding mountains. Stephen’s promise of “stunning views” was partly fulfilled. The decent down to lunch was steady and less severe than some of the climb and we arrived at the Ferrage alpage almost exactly at the booked time of 13.30h. The multitude of other clients were well into their meals and the car park indicated that most had missed out on the physical exercise pre-cursor. Beers were ordered and consumed and we relaxed in the knowledge that the hard part was over and that it was “mostly downhill” from now on. The Ferrage is not known for light meals and whereas some opted for the substantial fondue and röstis, even the light salad that Mark thought he’d ordered turned out to be sufficient for at least two. Natham probably was wisest in his choice of omelette.
Replenishing the calories
Small omelette, lots of chips.
Happy with his fondue
Yes, the Dents du Midi are over there
Desserts looked meaningful but with the prospect of tarte and biscuits at Chalet “Les Longs” we opted just for coffees before departing.
The descent in Morgins from the Ferrage always surprises tired legs and full stomachs with an uphill section and with a steep road section down to the valley before a final climb up again to “Les Longs”. These ensure that the total climb for the tour passes the 800m. Kate was waiting for us with tea, coffee and promised edibles soon prepared whilst Stephen found some of his homemade beer for those brave enough to try and not driving.
A final stroll back to the village centre to find the cars and complete the circuit. Electronic devices agreed that the total ascent was 814m, exactly the same as 4 years ago and just over 14km. Unlike Mont Blanc, the height of the Bellevue has not changed…..to be reconfirmed in 4 years’ time?
