Hike from Col Du Marchairuz to Mont Tendre and Buvette De Mont Tendre and back. May 25th 2023.

Written by Rob Pashley

The plan was to start walking at 10am from the Col, and ten adventure-minded members turned up on time for a quick coffee at the restaurant before moving off. Our favourite parrot was unfortunately missed as it was having a rest at the home of one of the restaurant servers.

Peter D, Mervyn P, Andrew N, David C, Mike M, Mark Warren, Richard S, Richard W and Robert P.  Richard W, Ralph W and myself set off on the dot in true Swiss style. As is usually the case with hikes or indeed snow-shoe outings led by our Scottish leader, as soon as we started the clouds disappeared and the sun shone for the rest of the day. It wasn’t long before most were disrobing to cope better with the rising temperature. 


We managed to stay together for about a third of the way to the Buvette two of the group decided to take the official route at the Cabane du Cunay while the rest of us tried a much longer shortcut.  

Consequently, those who knew better had to climb over a numbers of walls and cover some rough terrain and we ended up with three separate groups, with the leader leading diligently from the rear. It was a bit of a climb reaching the top of Mont Tendre at 1679 m and the three groups came together again for fabulous views into forested France and the Alps. Two of the team were sent on to the Buvette so ensure a suitable table was found and the beers were already in the fridge waiting while the rest of us admired some high-tech Swiss German mountain bikes resting at the summit.

The Buvette was very welcoming  and all heartily tucked in to mainly Rosti based meal with added cheese extra eggs and sausage, however the waitress was having quite a difficult time keeping up with the beer order. But we all managed.

After some traditional toasting with some Scottish liquid and some Danish stuff (that some suggested had some strange sexual connotations) and dire coffee, we paid the young lady of the Buvette and started off on the 8k or so hike back to the cars. The temperature had risen and it turned out to be a slightly more difficult and longer return route, although we all kept to the official paths. The quality of the chat, though, diminished as tiredness fell upon us, or maybe it was just the beer as the few that weren’t drinking beer seemed to talk more sense.

A couple of the team held us back at the re-visit to the summit of Mont Tendre having some polite conversation with two young ladies. They eventually caught up with the rest of us. 

One of the advantages of starting a hike at Marchairuz is that you can relax at the restaurant at the end of a hard day’s hike. We took some well-earned refreshment there while congratulating ourselves on our hiking prowess, amongst other things. After all, it was a 16.8 km, 734 m déniv hike.

Daffs or not at Sonnailley, hiking May 12, 2023

When all at once I saw a crowd
A host of golden dandelions and buttercups

William 2Ws ish

Last year we hiked via La Dôle to Sonnailley to find the daffodils mostly spent. This year we were one day earlier and they were worse (spenter?). However our leader, me, had already lowered expectations and told the participants they would need to bring their imagination so all was not lost.

Seven of us plus a furry hound gathered at 10:00 at the parking at la Givrine on what promised to be a cold and wet day and Météo Suisse did not disappoint: we had some rain, sleet, hail and mist over the course of the hike. Fortunately not too much of any of these and it was even dry at our lunch stop. There may have been a little sunshine but not enough to be noticeable.

We arrived in 3 cars and spent the first couple of hours trying to master the intricacies of the newly installed parking meters.

All but one of us, photographer at othe end of the lead

That accomplished we set off up to the Couvaloup de Crans and onward to La Dôle going through a field of daffodils on the way up. At least the leader had the sense to avoid saying that an even better display awaited them at Sonnailley.

Once at the Dôle we had done most of the climbing and it was clearly time for an aperitif. So we stood in the lee of one of the buildings with a bottle of white and a variety of nibbles, finally washed down with a glass of Welsh whisk(e?)y. We raised a toast to absent friends, especially Stephen.

We met a Scottish beggar at the top, we had no cash so we gave him a bit of food

Then it was time to start the descent, along the ridge to the South West and down what is marked as a footpath but in reality is an invitation to fall and crack your head on the rocky path. Fortunately we all got down intact and to the road which leads past the Grand Sonnailley to our designated picnic spot. This road passes within about 10 metres of the French border and there was much discussion of (illegal) entente cordiale meetings there during the pandemic.

The picnic spot was a slight rise, mostly out of the wind, and with no rain. Unfortunately there were no daffodils either, but plenty of buttercups. Fortunately we have photographs from 2 weeks earlier when they were at their best.

Lunch was washed down with an excellent red, some Scotch, more Welsh and coffee. Then we we returned via the Sonnailley au Prince hut to the Couvaloup and thereafter down the road to la Trélasse (both closed so no opportunity for a beer) and back to our cars.

Present Peter T, Mervyn, Nathan, Rob, Richard W, 2 Marks, Kobie. 14 km, 690m denivelation.

Excuses ranged from ‘only got one working leg’ to ‘going to concerts in Prague’ to ‘wife reset my priorities’.

GIN hikers – Balcon de Salève – 27th April 2023

Despite a gloomy weather forecast, 17 hardy hikers signed up for a double hike around the top of the Salève.  In the event, Drew had an unavoidable commitment at the last moment, so 16 of us made our way somewhat erratically to the rendezvous point by the Observatoire restaurant.  I failed miserably to communicate to the Divonne team that Drew would not be there, so precious time was lost in their departure.  Anyway, they set off in an assortment of vehicles trying to avoid the autoroute which was apparently blocked.  One of the said vehicles, or rather its driver, got somewhat confused by the ever-changing 5 year-old roadworks by the Ferney tunnel and had a pleasant magical, mystery tour of Grand Saconnex before proceeding to Bardonnex.  

The weather forecasters had, luckily, misread their instruments and we set off half an hour late in warm sunshine and blue skies with scattered clouds.  Two of us were so encouraged that we opted to bare our lower limbs for the first time in 6 months, leading certain comments about the whiteness of our skin!

The views of the Jura, Lac Léman and the Alps were clear and quite spectacular leading to much snapping of cameras (and smartphones).

View of Geneva
Taking in the sights

We followed an anti-clockwise route around the famous Genevois landmark and soon made a short detour to a viewpoint above the Grande Gorge to marvel at how much concrete there was in the Pays de Gex and Southern Geneva.  The beauty of our beloved Jura mountains with a few vestiges of snow on the peaks compensated somewhat for the destruction of the countryside below, though.  

Happy guys
Our path took us through pleasant woodland until we reached the open alpages where numerous skylarks were singing.

Heading to the highest point

  Heading towards La Croisette, we reached a stony outcrop which was the highest point of our hike.  In true GIN fashion, bottles were produced whilst we recovered from our exertions and even champagne glasses to celebrate Mark 2tts’ birthday from two weeks ago.  “Happy birthday” was duly sung and a crowd-funding campaign was suggested to enable a parapente ride for him, but he graciously declined!

Temperance?

Glasses clinked and stowed away, we continued on our route and we were now having great views of Mont Blanc and the rest of the Alps.  Old stamping grounds were identified and plans discussed for future sorties in that direction.  We reached the restaurant at the Observatoire right on time for our updated reservation and found an excellent long table for all 16 of us ready and waiting.  

Why are we waiting!

Excellent local beers were consumed by most of us, whilst at the Northern end of the table, some red wine was espied.  The menu choices of burgers, roast lamb and diots were reviewed and subsequently consumed, followed by coffees.  

Cheers!
Burgers, etc. have arrrived


She says she’s more interested with what’s on the plate

As the circular trail we had taken before lunch was only about 6 kms, 12 of us set off this time in a clockwise direction on the same route, whilst 4 of our number decided to return home for various reasons.  The weather was still warm and Mark 2tts and I felt somewhat vindicated by our earlier decisions whilst others stripped off to single-layer tops.  Reaching the site of our earlier refreshment stop, we marvelled at the number of parapenters enjoying themselves nearby.  17 were counted in the air at one time, miraculously avoiding each other, but Mark was still not accepting our generous offer!

Someone’s having a nap in the background

Peter was suggesting taking a precipitous path lower down on the way back, but as we had spent a considerable time in the restaurant, we decided to forego this pleasure until another occasion as time was moving on.

It wasn’t the toughest hike for the group, at about 12 kms and less than 300 metres dénivellation, but the company was, as usual, great and the views were superlative.  And by the way, we had two Marks, two Mikes, two Steves and two Richards – must be a record!

Present:  David C, Larry F, Marks 2rrs, Mark 2tts, Mervyn P, Mike H, Mike M, Peter T, Rob P, Ralph W, Richard S, Richard W, Rudi P, Stephen L, Stephen W (Ralph’s brother) and Thatcher S.

GIN Hikers – Jura Winter Storm -A walk on the wild side – Col de Porte and Couvaloup. 13 April 23.

Nathan writes :-

The itinerary I suggested for this outing began at the Archette car park, up to the Col de Porte and then down to the Couvaloup-de-Crans restaurant for lunch. The return leg was around the mountain rather than climbing back up and over it. There was an optional quick climb to the Dôle after “encouraging” liquid refreshments at the CAS Hut.

Nathan’s Hike – Clockwise from top right – Lunch top left

The outing was tarnished by the fact that our restaurant decided to close for 10 days. Unfortunately I was not able to persuade them to exceptionally open just on Thursday for our illustrious group. We each had to carry our lunch up in our back-pack, at least most of us did.

MétéoSuisse led us to believe that there would only be very light snow and only in the morning with very little wind.

Seven of us met at the Divonne car park for our contribution to the saving the earth effort by travelling in only 3 vehicles. Two more met us directly at the Archette. The nine of us (eleven if Kobie and Nessie are included) set off a bit after 10:00 under a cloudy sky, with almost no snow either on the ground or falling through the air.

Kobie snow rolling just after the start
Merriment at the conditions
Getting more serious
Dog legging the cattle grid

Soon after though, the ground was covered with a white layer and indeed a light snow began falling. As we progressed toward our objective, gaining altitude, the white layer got deeper and the snow began falling more intensely. Snow-shoes were not required but some of the steeper places were somewhat uncomfortable.

One of the steeper places – more serious still
Bending to the storm
Richard in his element

When we arrived at the CAS Hut there was considerable snow falling. With the low cloud cover we were not motivated, even after appropriate refreshments, to climb to admire the non-view from the Dôle.

Not the Dôle top – but it’s over there. Several chamois in this photo..
What we might have seen..
Looking back down the track leading to the Col de Porte
Looking up – Rob leads Richard to the CAS Hut at the Col de Porte
Taking Benedictine and chips at the CAS Hut
Looking back up to the Col de Porte

The wind was no longer a gentle breeze when we crossed over the pass on to the western downward slope. The gusts were over 50km/h! Fortunately they subsided as we descended. 

And then the sun came out – if briefly

We all made it to the restaurant with no casualty. As expected, it was closed but they did leave the tables and benches on the terrace for us.  Some of our more dedicated members cleared off the snow so that lunch would be comfortable albeit cold except for the few moments when the sun took pity on us with a bit of warmth.

Sleet in my red wine !
Log pile economy class
Weak sun then more sleet

After a lovely lunch, in spite of some complaints about the slow/snow service, we began our return through the forest. Being at a lower altitude the walk was more relaxed with neither wind nor significant snow falling.

The way home
Way home 2

It was occasionally a little slippery where the snow did not cover the wet leaves but we managed to make it back to the car park safe and sound.


Kudos to the group for their intrepidness to have undertaken the hike and finished it with “nary” a complaint in spite of the poor weather, lack of a restaurant and a couple of treacherous passages.

Participants: Mervyn Powell, Philip Jenkins, Nicolas Ulmer, Peter Taylor, Mike Muller, Mark Warren, Rob Pashley, Richard Saynor, myself, Kobie and Nessie.

Walking distance: 10.5km

Climbing distance: 580m

Nathan Finkelstein

Posted by Peter T

Hiking Le Vuache 30 March 2023

The Vuache is a long lean mountain. Not at all a Fujiyama. Not even a Môle. But I see it every morning from my kitchen balcony. And it tells me what the day’s weather will bring. Geologically it’s part of the Jura range. Good Jurassic limestone, no doubt riddled, like the Salève, with water-filled cavities. And maybe bottomless potholes that nobody has explored. But physically it’s an isolated mountain, cut off eons ago by the melt waters from the immense Rhone Glacier that filled the whole Lemanic basin. And it holds secrets known only to those who explore it in early Springtime.

Eleven of us – the two Marks, Peter, Nathan, Rudi, Richard, Mike M, Ralph, Drew, Mervyn and me, Philip, plus our two canine friends Nessie and Kobie, but minus the otherwise-occupied Stephen, Thatcher and Rob – met at Chaumont, an old twisted village at the southern end of the spine of the Vuache. The promised rain seemed to be all around us but failed to reach the ground.

We found the sign to the Vuache summit tucked away in a small alley behind the church and set off up a steepish rocky gully. Initially the promised Spring flowers were scarce, with only a scattering of the Violets (both blue and white, plus the occasional yellow and white bicolour), blue Spring Squills and Corydalis (both white and red versions) brightening the path.

A Spring Squill

Nessie out in front, while we pause for breath

Nathan, Mike Richard et al trail hauling
Drew and Richard in deep discussion
Looking south again towards the pre-Alps
Mike, with Nessie, just before his hat blew off

However, just past a little gate at around 900 m altitude we suddenly found hundreds of Dog’s Tooth Violets, which are unknown at lower altitudes. As though a notice had told them “yes, you can here”.

Dog’s Tooth Violet

Not long after, we started to see the wild Daffodils for which the Vuache is famous – millions of them forming a yellow carpet up to the cairn marking the summit (1105 m). However we were probably too late to spot the Snowdrop-like Snowflakes that grow near the summit.

A carpet of wild Daffodils

Mike with Kobie trying not to stand on them
Flower power
Reaching the cairn

Team at the Vuache summit cairn (1105 m)

There was no handy auberge nearby, so we ate our picnics (in a particularly windy spot) with extensive views over the Rhone Valley and in the distance the Plateau de Retord.

Lunch view SW down the Rhone Valley

Nessie was as quiet as a mouse, while Kobie was on general food lookout and realised that barking was a good way of attracting attention and the odd titbit.

A pleasant but chilly lunch spot
World leading company

The only points of deep discussion at picnic time seemed to be (though I could have missed a few others) the merits of Richard’s latest potent potion, namely Prime Uve Nere, and those of the new First Minister of Scotland. Unfortunately Rob was not with us to give his expert well-informed opinion of the latter.

On the return, we initially retraced our steps but then deviated down the steep western slope of the Vuache, fortunately relatively dry and unslippery. This took us through the hamlet of Chaumontet and back to the village of Chaumont.

The centre of attraction in the car park turned out to be Mike’s Renault Alpine, the type of sports car that used to do well in the Monte Carlo Rally. It’s sleekness attracted a lot of envy. Less so the luggage compartment under the bonnet, just big enough for half an average suitcase. Undeterred, Mike pointed out a second, but even smaller, luggage space in the “boot”. So where was the engine? Ah, to expose that would require unscrewing the back window. Clearly a car that requires careful attention to engine checks and suitcase size before setting off for Monte Carlo.

Mike’s sleek Renault Alpine half-hidden behind sleek Mervyn (notice dog seat)

Mike’s sports car has a frunk, which impressed us all

Vuach vital statistics: height rise 525 m; distance 7.4 km

A search of the dusty GIN blog archives revealed that the same hike was organised in June 2018 by David Colledge. There were three participants then, an indication of the significant increase over the last 5 years in GIN hiking interest.

Posted by – Philip Jenkins

No snowshoe snow hike from the Givrine to La Cure and back – 16 March 2023

Mark Warren SS Leader writes :

The four members first meeting in Divonne and two plus Kobie going directly arrived at the Givrine parking rendezvous in good time for our scheduled 10am departure only to discover that the new pay parking system was creating more problems than the cost. The metres do not accept debit cards (the card operators charge too much for the liking of the Commune), the Twint QR card had been removed (what vandalism in St Cergue!) and there was little to no wifi connectivity precluding the use of the App “easypark”. (NB in future walk up to the station where 4G is stronger. Ed PT). There was however a traffic warden present to supervise the five or so cars in the carpark (one had a parking ticket) and to witness our plight and to enable Nathan to negotiate free parking. But all this came at a cost since we didn’t leave until 10h20.

Parking meter and rubbish bin

This season has been particularly bad for snow shoeing. We started off with winter wanders before any snow arrived and then only had arguably three “proper” snowshoe outings before we were out hiking again, albeit with some slippages. Although it had snowed Wednesday morning, the restaurant and the webcam indicated that it had all melted so we traipsed off at hiking speed only to discover there was much more snow hiding round the corner, including some still in the trees. Not enough to warrant our absent snowshoes but deep and fresh enough to give that lovely crunchy sound made through walking on fresh snow. Animal tracks were clear (hare and wild boar). 

Kobie leads the way
At least we were walking on the white stuff !
Shady characters

It was lovely in the sunshine and we went to that extra post across a field, reaching the chalet Pré du Four for a pause, taken in the traditional GIN way.

Some white some red – Swiss apèro courtesy of Stephen who had been cleaning out his cellar
As good as it gets
The usual view – always uplifting

A quick phone call to the restaurant to ensure a late arrival wouldn’t create a lunch problem enabled us to enjoy the view of the Mont Blanc range for longer, then off we went on an easy snow covered path to Chez Mamac for our lunch, which we took outside, starting with welcome beers and cheese with cold meats.

Stone tree decorations en route
Firm snow descent towards La Cure
Snow runs out but the smiles remain
At Mamac. Let’s start with beer and cold meats !
Nathan finds a friend
So does Kobie
Fondu !

Chez Mamac is famous for its trifon – a fondue saucepan partitioned into three parts – enabling a choice of three different cheeses. The usual intellectual conversation scarcely covered Scottish independence but included Crédit Suisse and other banking problems, Shackleton and antarctica, and end of the snowshoe season and start of the hiking one. As the baker from St Cergue had delivered insufficient tartlets, we moved directly from main course to coffee.

All 7 of us
Sun shine round table

Despite the temptation to take the train, we unanimously decided to leg it back to Givrine, which was mostly over snow! And so freak blizzards aside, ended the 2022/23 snowshoe season with a snow hike.

The way back
Dog guard

Mark handed the gavel back to Peter for the 2023 summer hiking season. Next hike 30 March 2023 – La Vuache led by Philip.

Participants: PeterT plus Kobie, NathanF, MervynP, RichardS, StephenL and Mark2R

Distance 11km; height difference 320m.

PS – Many thanks to Mark for leading us through this relatively snow-free winter. We had some memorable outings. We look forward to more in 23/24. PT et al.

Snow Shoe Outing 6 Jan 2023

Snow shoe outing Thursday 6 January 2023.

12.5km with 300m height difference

The second snowshoe outing of the season was aptly described as a winter wander with no one even dreaming that there might be snow. Ten of us (Robert Pashley, Richard Saynor, Mervyn Powell, Nicolas Ulmer, Peter Taylor, Mark Watts, Mark Warren, Mike Hempstead, Paul Sochaczewski and Mike Muller) and three dogs (Kobie, Onyx and Nessie) consequently met at the parking in the Place de la Gare, Divonne les Bains from where we set off on foot for the Mont Mussy.

The trail was straight forward and we overtook the jeudistes ladies from CERN at the Grande Source (and it was Grande with all the rain we’ve been having). The Mont Mussy (704m) is well known to most of us and no leading was required. We ascended the path now covered in damp leaves to the Ferme de Mont Mussy, which sadly has been closed as a restaurant for several years, and on through the woods to the summit of Mont Mourex at at 755m. The gods were kind to us as we had a blue sky with some cloud instead of the forecast rain. The views whether Jura or Alps were good but misty. All this augured well for a typical GIN pause with suitable beverages served with thanks to those who brought them. Entertainment was assured with the usual high intellectual conversation and the dogs chasing each other around the monolith.

On Mont Mourex with Nessie and Kobie
And Onyx
And Petros
Some dubiosity of spirit..

With about 45 minutes to go before our restaurant reservation, we took a short cut through some thorny bushes to a main path which confounded some who turned left on it instead of right. Thereafter the group were error free and we walked fast on the well-trodden path to the restaurant, the Accord Parfait. Everyone took the menu du jour and the only complaint was that a better wine should have been chosen.

Rob and Mark
Mike, Mervyn, Nicolas, Mike and Richard
And paul
And Peter and Mark

There were two options for the return to the carpark – five took the direct route via the Grande Source and five the longer route by the golf course. On arrival, the Scottish fluid was produced and enjoyed.

Thanks everyone – a most enjoyable day out. Various options are being considered for the next outing on 19 January depending on…snow.

Mark Warren

GIN Hikers St Cergue-Cabane du Carroz-Jura and La Genolière 8.12.22

The weather dawned sunny and cold, perfect conditions for a last of 2022 season hike from La Givrine clockwise to Cabane du Carroz, and La Genolière. I had undertaken this hike the Friday before, in cold and freezing frost conditions. More snow had fallen since and the freezing frost had gone, but it was to be below zero out of the sun all day.

In the event 7 other brave Gintlemen signed up and turned out on time at La Givrine’s large newly surfaced parking area at 1207m. Attending were Stephen, Rob, Nathan, Andrew, Mark2ts, Philip, Mervyn and me, with Kobie as token protection from wolves (…).

The Route (roughly) was 9.7 km and 370m denivellation

Spirits were high. It was good to have Rob back with us again after a hiatus, but we missed other stalwarts who had various levels of excuses. Kobie was barking with excitement to start and off we went under the rail tunnel and up to the NW in bright sunshine on green grass.

Eight spirits of the hills

Kobie, Philip, Mervyn, Mark2ts, Stephen, Rob, Andrew, Nathan

We had dressed for the cold (especially Nathan with his Canadian fur hat (in which Kobie took an interest later on)) but it was initially warm upward going, until we turned NE into a chilly combe.

Rob still needed no hat, but we all needed gloves

We gradually ascended into the light and into greener pastures, with fine views back to La Dôle.

Up into the light

Turning right up the summit slopes we met deeper snow, but nothing that needed a racquette.

Perfect snow conditions for a Cobberdog

It was not long before we arrived at a sudden right turn to the SAC hut the Cabane du Carroz Jura at 1508m, its terrace giving a fine view out to the alps with the Haut Cime and Matterhorn clearly visible. It was time (11.30 am) for coffee/wine/malt/schnapps or whatever your fancy standing in the sun – with thanks to providers.

Coffee stop – Nathan out of the picture to the right organising for his charity taxi efforts.

Kobie was behaving as was the party itself, and I can recall nothing occurring that could be described as untoward or mutinous. A very pleasant way mark on our route.

After we had replenished our tanks it was time to move on down the snowy trail through beautiful forest down to the road leading to La Genolière for our pre booked table for lunch. The hut dog Mousse was delighted to meet Kobie again (the third time in a week). It was so warm in the sun that we were able to order beers sitting outside in the sun, there being very few other diners that day despite the sunny weather.

Aperos outside at La Genolière

Our orders placed we decided that the log fire inside was needed to keep warm and enjoy the croute fromages and röstis we had ordered from the friendly lady I had met twice before recently. In fact Kobie had met Mousse in the winters of 2020 and 2021 and they enjoyed friendly romps in the snow.

Those Croutes disappeared entirely in good time.
Selfie – no – I’m not wearing underpants on my head..
Non selfie – note Kobie by the log fire

There was much lively discussion and we toasted absent friends. Scottish independence was back on the agenda as Rob was back, and it was a very convivial and lively lunch. Nathan informed us that he is looking for drivers to help his charity take old folk to appointments etc (please email Nathan directly). After desserts, coffees and digestifs it was time to amble back down through the snowy fields and forest to the cars at La Givrine with sun still in the sky albeit increasing cloud cover. A great day out enjoyed by gintlemen and dog in full measure.

The night saw the arrival of bad weather and a snow storm with a white mushy layer in my garden in the morning under falling snow. Handing over to Mark Warren now for the Snow-Shoe season must surely be starting.

I shall post a summary of 2022 hikes in due course. Thanks to all for being so accommodating of my big gentle hound. He loves you all.

GIN Hike Givrins to St Cergue from Trelex 24 November 22

The weather forecast seemed not unreasonable with clearing skies for this Thanksgiving hike. The question was – it was cloudy and threatening light rain – were we a little too early for the sun ?

Eight brave Gintlemen and two dogs turned out, eventually meeting up at the Parcours-vita parking (at 600m) on the Rte de St Cergue above Trelex at 9.45am. At least it was not actually raining. Attending were 8, Nathan, David, Stephen, Mark2ts, Nicolas, Rudi, Mervyn and me; hounds Kobie and Onyx. We had packed a picnic to allow for a promised return to our firesides by 3.30 pm, this timing would be helped also by a descent on the train from St Cergue to Givrins.

It was particularly good to see Rudi back in our ranks. Sad that Philip was not quite fit enough, others had good excuses. We set off in good spirit, the dogs were behaving, and so were the gintlemen with neither side having a full dip in the initial lake in the Bois de Ban. Underfoot was damp, perhaps wet at times, with fallen leaves aplenty, so we had to be careful to watch our footing all day.

Mervyn, Mark, Rudi, Stephen, David, Nicolas, Nathan – by the lake
Kobie camouflaged by the foliage
Bois de Trélex

Steady progress was made up through the woods lit up in orange and yellow, the final leaves of the year. We descended some 60m down to cross the bridge over the stream (called La Colline – I have always called it the Trelex River). Turning left the path steepens up to the level of the track that leads to the gorge that lies below St Cergue. A pleasantly level track allowed for chats and banter as the dogs hunted about left and right.

By the La Colline
Towards the Gorge
Happy Hikers
Coming back out of the Gorge
Looking back to towards the Gorge

Near to where the gorge ends and the path turns back up right, there is a source – a little cave from which water emerges from under the Jura – but it was dry on the day. We were soon trending back out of the gorge and then up left towards the Parapente Seat (at 980m). Nicolas asked me who I thought were the greatest rock groups of all time, so the time passed quickly for me. I don’t think I would have chosen The Who though.

Just before the Seat below the parapente field, I slipped on a wet slanting rock and almost knocked Mervyn over. This happily was the only slip of the day. No damage done. Views from this seat are normally amazing, today less so as there were clouds on the Jura tops and over the alps. But we could see the Jet d’Eau.

Dogs were now put on leashes as chamois frequent the cliffs hereabouts and the path traverses above some steep and loose drops. Drops of light rain had begun and we had donned waterproofs, but there was still a hint of sun in the sky. Just after the Pilar Chinois (a bolted sport route on the limestone cliffs below the railway) the steps lead up to a picnic area with two benches just big enough for the 8 of us to sit, nicely dried by Nicolas with a towel (nb memo to self to pack a towel in wet weather).

Picnic with hounds – very light rain
And then the sun came out, as ordered.

While we were enjoying out picnic the light rain turned to sunshine ! With no Richard we were without strong liquor, but some pleasant reds from Italy/Puglia and Monastrell/Spain were in the offing. At least one spare bottle remained unopened. Kobie and Onyx were not forgotten either (re food not wine that is). Mark came round with his usual excellent hot, strong, black fluid and paper cups.

Checking the watch it was likely that we would make the 1.32 pm train from St Cergue as it was only a short stroll across to the station. It was here that we had the Problem. Several members attempted to acquire tickets from the machine – most of us used the SBB app on our phones. The train came in from La Cure, we all boarded and the doors suddenly closed and the train left. Wait a minute – there were only 7 Gintlemen and two dogs settled comfortably. Where is Nathan? Oh no! He had missed the train, he had been waiting to obtain a ticket from the machine and was last in line. The train did seem to leave all of a sudden, with no audible warning, and none from Nathan either. I did sort-of feel responsible, but I had a big dog to look after and sometimes leading Gintlemen is a bit like herding cats.

We sent Nathan messages with the intention to meet him at the coffee shop in Givrins (of biking fame). The train ride provided some fabulous views out over to the alps. The sun had come out in full and we enjoyed some pleasant caffeine in Givrins while waiting. Rudi stayed on the train to be picked up by his chauffeuse in Trelex. He had cruised the hike just fine. Nathan showed up 30 minutes later seemingly none the worse for wear, bearing no obvious grudges.

Coffee in the sun at Givrins
Onyx – A* for behaviour
Kobie – almost an A* too

There remained the short stroll back down across the Trelex River and up into the forest back across to the cars. A pleasant hike, and one that apart from one incident, turned out just as I had hoped (sorry Nathan). We even got back on time! I clocked 8.7km and 606m denivellation. The dogs had a fine time too and behaved well (imho). Thanks to all for the great company and fine wines.

The route – Starting at the Green marker – ignore the green line. The train ride is not shown.

Hiking Pas du Roc 10 November 2022

Apart from the marathon (well, 24 km) hike around the Lac de Joux 2 weeks ago, this was my first GIN hike for 8 months, mainly due to open-heart surgery during the summer. So it was with some apprehension that I offered to organise a mountain hike in the French Alps to the east of Annecy. I felt sure that the ascents were going to slow me down, so I made sure that I went in front on the narrow tracks so that none of the greyhounds on my heels could streak ahead.

However, problems arose before we even reached the hike start. After passing through Thorens-Glière, Usillon and the hamlet of Nant-Sec, we came across a “road-blocked” sign. Since there was no deviation possibility, we optimistically drove straight on. A kilometer further was a second road-blocked sign, which looked a bit more serious. Since this was only some 700 m short of our intended stopping point, we found a verge-side parking spot for the three cars and set off on foot up the road. The reason for the signs quickly became apparent – trees were being felled just above the road and one of the lumberjacks advised us that if we continued we would face hefty fines.

Richard reconnoitering the Pas du Roc
Mervyn in the rock arch

Undeterred, the eight of us – Mark 2tts, Mark 2rrs, Richard, Andrew, Nathan, Mervyn, David and me, Philip – set off up the narrow path crossing the slope above us  while keeping a close look-out for falling trees. The path zigzagged up the slope at a pleasant gradient and after 1 hour we reached a steeper, more rocky section – the Pas du Roc. Here the path had been cut out of the cliff, which reared hundreds of meters above our heads. On the outer side of the 2m-wide path the cliff plunged vertically to the forest below. The recent rain made some sections of the path quite slippery, and one slip here could have proved fatal. Fortunately, hand holds had been provided, in the form of cables and chains, to avoid touching the void.

Cautious progress up the Pas du Roc

The explanation for the human engineering of this bold path is that in 1830 it was decided to build a glass factory on the plateau above. The high-quality glass was to be made from Salève sand, but also needed substantial quantities of wood to fuel the fires. The cliff-carved path was the only way of bringing in the timber, presumably on horses or mules. In fact the glass factory only operated until 1860.

Crossing the cascade
GIN Hikers Shadow Cabinet in action

Above the delicate passage was a cascade, swollen by the recent rains and crossed by two bridges. Richard nobly climbed up to the higher bridge to photograph us on the lower one. From here the path wandered across the Champ Laitier, a huge plateau of boggy ground.

La Montagne de Sous-Dine – a moveable feast

It was around this point that an interesting discussion arose concerning the whereabouts of a mountain called the Sous-Dine. I told the group that the mountain over to the left must, from its profile, be the Sous-Dine, a mountain that Richard and I had climbed a few years earlier. Richard replied that it was impossible, as a sign that he had just spotted announced the Sous-Dine by pointing to the right. To the right there was indeed a mountain but it was forested to the summit, which the Sous-Dune is not. I pondered for a moment then brought out my trump card: “my IGN 1:25000 map indicates that the Sous-Dine is to the west of our present position. Unless my compass has inverted, west is over to the left, whereas that sign is pointing eastwards.” Faced with this irrefutable logic, Richard graciously admitted defeat. We could only explain this strange situation by assuming that either the sign had been erected the wrong way round or, more likely, that it wanted hikers to take a “scenic deviation” across the boggy ground.

Warm sunshine and lively picnic discussion

Up ahead was a large building, the Chalet de Plan, which looked as though it would be a good picnic spot since it was now well past midday. It proved to be the perfect place, with steps and a bench to sit on in the warm sunshine. The blog writer notes that GIN outing accounts traditionally mention conversation items covered during lunchtime. Given the erudite nature of the group members, it is no surprise that the conversation between bites covered such learned topics as 1) the relative merits of cooking techniques for eggs – hard boiled, soft boiled, sunny side up or easy over; 2) the resignation of a bullying UK cabinet minister; 3) the quality of the alcoholic beverage that Richard brought, which allowed us to toast absent friends. Scottish independence was deemed not to be a worthy topic as there was nobody present to defend it. We probably need an eloquent Scot to revitalise this once-popular topic.

Another of Richard’s tipples

Having eaten well, we decided not to continue further over the Champ Laitier but to head downwards via a deviation across boggy ground sloping down to the river that fed the cascade. Since we were well equipped with torches and head lamps, we fixed as objective a goufre (pothole) marked on the 1:25000 map. With Nathan keeping a constant eye on his GPS, we soon came across what might have been a pothole. There was certainly a depression in the ground, surrounded by a feeble fence that would have posed no problem to a determined warthog. However, the height of the nettles around the hole was enough for even the most enthusiastic cavers among us to be put off any further investigation.

Atmospheric descent through the rock arch

As we descended, the pleasant sunshine gave way to thick mist, which provided a suitable atmosphere to the 200m-long delicate cliff-cut path. No one spoke. It definitely needed 100% concentration to avoid a dangerous slip. Once past this hazard, we could relax and enjoy the contrasting autumnal colours of the beeches, oaks and conifers. Back at the cars we discovered David’s pair of clean shoes lying undisturbed on the ground outside the car where they had been all day!

David’s shoes enjoying a day out

In the Thorens-Glière bistro where we stopped for a well-earned drink, it was generally agreed that the Pas du Roc hike provided an interesting variation to the more usual Jura walks. Now, while we await the first snows that will allow us to get moving on raquettes, there might just be time for one more autumnal hike.

Top