Category: Hiking

For the sixth time in the modern (GIN) era, the classic hike on the shores of the Lac de Joux was planned for Thursday, 9th October.  It was billed as a relatively easy outing which might have attracted a larger response from the hiking community, but in the end just eleven of us embarked on the trip as several “would-have’s” were otherwise occupied, along with some regulars who were either incapacitated or off on their travels.  Seven of us (Mark 2rrs, Mark 2tts, Nathan, Stephen, David, Rob O’Riordan and myself) met at the Divonne parking.  Rob had just descended from St Cergue by public transport only to be returned by private mode. Our delight in seeing that there were none of the usual queues up to the autoroute was quickly dampened by the slow-moving, sometimes stationary, traffic on the said road.  Messages were exchanged advising of  possible late arrivals at the L’Orient parking place, where we met up with the four (and a half) remaining members (RichardW, Andrew, Thatcher, MikeH and Rocco).  Rocco ran around greeting everyone, but was obviously confused that his mates Kobie and Nessie weren’t present.

The weather had been sunny on the plain but as we had reached the summit of the Col du Marchairuz, we encountered the cloudy conditions which unfortunately persisted for the rest of the day.  The leader communicated the bad news that the little red and white train for the return trip was out of service, but the good news that there was a conveniently-situated bus stop which would enable us to be ferried back to the cars.  It was also noted at this point that there were three virGIN members who hadn’t participated in earlier hikes in the area.

So we set off, somewhat delayed, which may have precipitated the cracking pace set by the first two in the group.  However, everyone managed to keep up with the young bucks at the front and there were occasional stops to admire the views across the lake and take in the bird life and Autumnal colours which had been promised.  One common topic of conversation which seemed to prevail were the latest exploits of the Orange man and whether his efforts to bring peace would prevail, and if he would be subsequently rewarded by the Peace Prize.  Nobody fancied a swim except the brave Rocco who didn’t stay in for long!

The trail, which varies between grass, road, wooden boardwalk, pavement, soft woodland soil and rocky paths, follows the edge of the lake until there is a steep uphill section rising about 80 metres in a series of switchbacks to a welcoming seat which served a very useful purpose. 

Upwards and onwards

Tucking in

A bottle of excellent red from Puglia was produced (many thanks, Stephen) as well as a variety of snacks, which were gratefully consumed.  Sitting forlornly on the bench was the GIN bottle who would remain untouched until much later in the day

Conscious of our tardy start, we continued into the woodland section hoping to see large herds of chamois, but were somewhat perturbed to see several groups of fellow hikers in both directions which may have scared off the wild animals.  However, the leading members of our group, including an excited Rocco, did soon espy a small group of chamois disappearing off to the right.  Although we didn’t encounter the 70-odd herd that we saw last year, we did eventually come across a gathering of 10 individuals who seemed quite happy to munch away even though we got quite close.

The path down to the lake level is quite steep with rocks and roots, which is slippery even in dry conditions, so the team became a bit strung out with the leaders obviously thirsty and hungry, probably in that order, marching off along the Le Pont promenade towards the Brasserie des Combières, our lunch spot. 

Beers brewed less than half a kilometre away were quickly ordered and sampled and we were pleased to see that a selection of “chasse” was on the blackboard. 

About half our number opted for one or other of the game options and a couple of bottles of red were consumed, although we agreed that the quality was not up to Stephen’s earlier offering.  Our twelfth honorary member, the GIN bottle, was passed around and several partook of it’s contents of Stolnaya vodka.

The buses back to the cars run hourly and with the 14.30 departure not being an option, 10 of us bought tickets online or from the driver at inexplicably different prices for the 12 minute trip leaving at 15.30.  Rob took his chances that trains would at least be running northwards to Lausanne so headed off to the station.

Our total hike was 12.5 kms, somewhat less than last year, but hopefully just as enjoyable.  Total ascent was 180 metres.

September 24-25th, 2025

A hike organiser needs to keep a close eye on weather conditions. So it was with some apprehension when the late summer from the previous week turned into a forecast for early winter with heavy rain and potential for snow for a planned 2 day hike in Barme. So much had been promised by the organiser in terms of stunning scenery only available in fine weather. 12 enthusiastic participants had responded to an early call with happy memories of the Tour of the Muverans and the Tour of the Dents du Midi still in mind. When one potential participant, with a Philippines’ warm weather habit, literally got cold feet, it was an indication that the rest of the group would have to be consulted to check on their resolve. Happily, the first response from a member (one happy to frolic in the snow) set the tone and suggested that this GIN group is more than used to adversity. After this, no-one else dared back out and the organiser had shared the weight of decision-making responsibility.

Backpacks were loaded with wet weather gear and layers of warm clothing (and in some cases copious supplies for canine friends) and then covered with waterproof membranes. The journey from respective homes to the Grand Paradis parking meeting place in the Portes du Soleil at the far end of the valley from Champéry was mostly smooth. The 11 eager participants arrived on time and were soon talking about the sole hiker who had decided that the best waterproofing was bare legs…. well, the Scots do have experience in this domain. The party consisted of Mark2Rs, Mervyn, MikeH + Rocco, MikeM + Nessie, Nathan, PeterS, PeterT + Kobie, Ralph, RichardS, Rob and Stephen (leader). As was commented, mad dogs and Englishmen were certainly present on this occasion as well as a representative sample of other nationalities with similar tendencies.

All present and correct. The team sets off.

The dogs set off excitedly, happy to also be part of this adventure, and the group followed in a more measured manner. There was a request for a coffee stop but unfortunately the one suitable restaurant had decided to take a few days off. So, we started the initial climb, past the closed restaurant and up towards the threatening sky and our luncheon spot. The rain held back and as those aging bodies warmed up there was perhaps a greater understanding of a choice of shorts. We started to find our rhythm with a group of usual front runners and backmarkers and those happy to be in the middle or alternating between positions. Plenty of time had been allotted for this shortish but steep ca. 500m climb to the Refuge de Bonavau at 1552m.

On the way up. No rain and warm….maybe the Scotsman has got it right

Nathan, with his dedicated trek tracker, is a dangerous companion to a hike organiser as he always seems to know in advance the exact location, elevation, steepness of climb/descent, etc. so it’s impossible to suggest any route is less arduous than reality. We arrived in good time at the refuge just as the rain started to fall and we installed ourselves in the dry as the only customers of the day. The refuge has checked the day before that we really would be coming as all their other reservations, including the overnight stays, had cancelled due to the weather forecast.

Good spirits and good beer.

Plenty of banter over lunch and memories of the first day of the Tour des Dents du Midi hike which had passed very close to here (but without lunch….a story often brought up to try, unsuccessfully, to embarrass Mervyn, the organiser of that great outing). The mountain fare was good with mostly a selection of croûtes and omelettes chosen, washed down with sufficient beer but leaving room for the tarte aux myrtilles before coffees. The dogs too had their nutrition, Kobie only being satisfied when the 80CHF bag of mega-chews was eventually opened. Unfortunately, we did have to leave this warm cocoon and venture out into the cold and now increasingly wet world. However, it appeared that all was not well with Rocco and his concerned owner, Mike, who felt that there was canine over-excitement. He took the difficult decision to head back down to Grand Paradis and onto St. Luc, a day earlier than initially planned.

After lunch outlook was not so promising.

By chance, Mike missed the wettest, muddiest, slipperiest, and overall not a very pleasant climb up to the col at 1793m and then sliding downhill to Barme. Normally this is a short and scenic walk but in these conditions, with little visibility and heavy rain, it seemed unusually long….atlhough Rob did claim to like these familiar conditions. However, expectations had been set for the rest of the hike…..Day 2 must be better, mustn’t it?

A pause at the high point before descent into Barme

The Cantine de Barmaz was welcoming, serving us hot drinks on arrival as we shed wet clothing and recovered from the afternoon’s exertions. The owner/waiter didn’t seem over stressed as we were the only customers (although another couple appeared for the evening meal…..from where and to where we do not know).

A warm, dry haven at last.

Out of the rain….time for a warm drink and relaxation

Feeling slightly less damp we moved operations to the bedrooms where the only predetermined arrangements were for the dogs and their owners, one individual room and one agreed double room. The rest of us looked around and hoped that we had chosen room mates with no unpleasant nocturnal habits. From the discussion the following morning it seems that we mostly succeeded. The rooms were compact, especially for PeterT and MikeM who had to share their accommodation with Kobie (no need to mention Nessie as she seemed to slot in unnoticed anywhere). There was a relief that MikeH and Rocco didn’t have to share this room as the owner was adamant that there could only be one room with dogs.

Dog tired …..but where do Peter and Mike sleep?

The bathroom facilities were also interesting with two closed showers , three basins and one open toilet all within a confined area. Happily, we discovered much more private toilets downstairs for the more meaningful visits.

After a change of clothes and a time for general relaxation, we congregated for the apéros before making our meal choices. With a room to ourselves, equipped with a stove, we soon were enjoying the warmth and letting the afternoon conditions recede into the distant memory (some poetic licence here). Were we all game for the game on the menu, especially when we were told by the owner that this was local. Wines were not quite so local but came from Saillon, just a little further down the Valais. Since MikeH had made a generous parting gesture of offering us some drinks, we decided to opt for one of the better bottles on the list to toast our friendship at his expense. It was very drinkable and, unfortunately, set the standard for the other bottles consumed, much to the concern of the leader/accountant. In fact, we didn’t hold back in this convivial atmosphere and enjoyed not only ample good wine but also copious helpings of cerf and/or sanglier in rack, medaillon or entrecote form with all the trimmings, without forgetting starters and desserts. Such were the helpings that Kobie benefitted from a large meal of left-overs the following morning….a veritable doggie bag. By the time we were at the coffee stage several were mellow enough to be persuaded to have a glass of the homemade pine liqueur. Sadly, the accountant was also mellow enough to allow this. Added to crème brulée in small quantities this liqueur was truly excellent but in pure form it transformed to a green sludge with a very unpleasant aftertaste, rivalling the worst of Richard’s flask offerings. Amazingly, Mervyn and PeterT seemed immune to these flavours (aftermath of COVID?) and were happy to help out those with more sensitive palates. Even they could not finish all 7 glasses.

A great choice of chasse and wine. No prices on the latter…..

Game for this plate of food.

Happiness is a warm room, warm food and warm company

To rival any of Richard’s

Replete and tired from the day’s efforts, people started drifting off to bed at an unusually early hour, leaving a hard core to have a final rinsing beer and to listen to the calls of amorous wild animals across the valley, mingled with the bells from more domesticated animals. The night passed without major incident, no loud snores or rampant dogs, just the frequent creak of old doors as aging men needed to make use of the open plan bathroom. The dog room had the worst of this as the only place for Kobie was in front of the door, causing a large obstacle for exit. Ironically, on an informal count the following morning, the human content of this room claimed the maximum number of nocturnal reliefs.

Is that sunshine behind us?

A new day dawned……and it was still raining. However, there seemed to be better visibility at times. MeteoSuisse promised a drier day from 09.30h until 16h, almost perfect for the planned walk. So we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast and repacked our backpacks ready for the rain to stop….which it did but visibility was still poor. Backpacks were left at the Cantine as we would be passing by again on our final way down and could pick them up them. The walk up from the Cantine to the end of the Barme valley can be spectacular under good conditions. We had tantalising glimpses between rising and falling cloud and started to gain an appreciation of our location. New snow on the peaks added an additional quality to those ethereal glimpses. We even managed to see some chamois high up on the hill, which Kobie felt obliged to get closer to. By the time we reached the end of the valley, we had a fairly good view of the impressive Dents Blanches and, looking back, the Dents de Midi were also making a partial appearance.

Majestic Dents du Midi

We met your cousins last night….

Richard, Mark and MikeM decided against a longer uphill loop to see the bird station at the Col de Bretolet. This added an extra 3-4 kms to the circuit. Instead, they took the ridge walk back towards the lunchtime Cantine des Dents Blanches at a leisurely pace (allowing time to find a wayward Nessie on a couple of occasions) and secured our table in the near empty restaurant. The rest of us made the detour. This involved a steep up and as we climbed the visibility reduced. At the top, on the ridge, we had zero view to our left and to our right and it started to snow. Not ideal conditions for seeing birds.

Up into the cloud and the bird ringing station

As we began the tranverse across to the bird ringing station, there was a hint of movement in the cloud cover. As we arrived, there was a biblical moment as the clouds parted and showed the Dents Blanches appeared in all their glory. Magnificent.

Rock and awe

The Lead Ringer, one of the two paid employees at this Swiss Ornithological Institute station along with several volunteers, gave us a fascinating description of their work and trends in migration. Over 10000 birds are ringed annually between April and October, at least half of them being chaffinches (what is a chaffinch in French?). Migration trends clearly indicate errors in President Trump’s theories on (or lack of) climate change. As we were listening we had a fly past of a bearded vulture and a griffin vulture. PeterS was able to make an internation connection with ornithological activities in South Africa. Interestingly, the work of this ringing station is not advertised strongly in Switzerland since there is a body of people who are not in favour of the stress to the birds despite the information and understanding this generates.

After three isolated months here he’ll even talk to the GIN Group

We retraced our steps enjoying the view and the autumnal colours of the azaleas and myrtille plants on the hillside. Amazingly, there were plentiful berries still on the plants….if only we had picked up that myrtille comb from the Cantine. Back on the ridge, the clouds were clearing from the Portes du Soleil side and we had a good view of the new border house at the Col de Cou. Due to the time, we headed straight down and along the ridge that the alternative party had walked earlier. The views on both sides were great, enhanced in some ways by the still swirling cloud and the uncertainty of how long we would have them. The snow had stopped and it was not as muddy underfoot as the day before. We made good time despite a seemingly endless zig-zag descent through the woods along the chemin “Nature”.

We arrived at the restaurant only about 15 minutes after the reservation and reunited with the rest of the group. There was another opportunity to sample local game but for some reason we all thought that would be an over-kill. Instead, the more modest ordered salade de chevre chaud and the more gourmand went for the croute and risotto options. Some people still had room for dessert and a chance to sample another tarte aux myrtilles. The food was excellent and we marvelled how two restaurants in a small hamlet could have such good kitchens. The famous flask at last made an appearance and several sampled it’s syrupy delights. If only we had known the night before…..

Appetit refreshed. Ready for more game?

A healthy salad is a sensible choice

After lunch we recovered our backpacks and headed the direct route home. A descent of ca. 500m over 3-4km, i.e .very steep in parts. However, this was a good quality gravel track and the rain was not due until 16h. At the bottom, we passed again the closed restaurant. Although part of the initial plan to stop here, this closure was a blessing as the budget had already been blown from the excesses of the night before and the rain was starting, very much on cue. We were keen to get back to the cars. Discrete top up contributions were made to the grateful accountant, so that the books balanced.

Farewells were exchanged and we all returned back to our homes with warm memories of another memorable GIN hike. GIN really is a great organisation….friendship, exercise, tolerance and a lot of fun, despite frequent discussion over aches and pains.

Bloggers note: Many thanks for all your photographic contributions. It was not possible to use them all! I’ve chosen a representative sample without reference to who took the photo

Rob’s kingdom lies North of the Col de Marchairuz, while MikeH claims the South. Rob’s note went out :-

“For the upcoming hike I propose that we hike from Col Du Marchairuz to the Alpage Du Mont Tendre. The plan is we start at the Col at 9:30 am and take an alternative route up to the Alpage, with a return by the usual route. 

• The Col to Alpage route is 10.4 km, 465m denivelation and takes approx. 3hrs
• Return to Col is 8.3km, with 300m denivelation and will take approx. 2hrs 30min mostly downhill.
• I will arrange a booking at the Buvette for lunch.

The proposed mapped routes are attached.”

There were quite a number of apologies, some of which were apparently accepted. In the end seven and a dog arrived at the Col du Marchairuz at 9.30am on a cool and breezy morning. I entered the restaurant with Kobie who grew immediately very excited at seeing Rob, RichardS, Ralph, Rudi, Nathan and David, quietly enjoying a coffee. So excited that I had to take him out straight away without even checking to see if a new parrot had been installed.

Luckily I had an iced coffee in my car, so we were all soon caffeined-up and ready to go for this mammoth outing.

Rob last led this hike on 25 May 2023 when the following attended : – Peter D, Mervyn P, Andrew N, David C, Mike M, Mark Warren, Richard S, Richard W, Ralph and Robert P.  

Re-reading Rob’s blog of that outing it seemed that he found it a bit difficult to keep the team together. There was to be no such replay today, well almost.

As can be seen from the first map above, the outrun involved one of Rob’s long shortcuts. Sadly loggers were in place so we had to slighly shorten the shortcut, but only by a bit.

Happily the wind was behind us and we sailed along in intermittent sunshine.

It was not long before we attracted some doggerel companions.

Just before Cunay, Nathan decided on a shorter shortcut and we found ourselves on very steep ground attempting to reach the main ridge.

By this time it was becoming clear that we were entering the cloud base, with some moisture and a chilling breeze.

We finally knocked the 1679m b—–rd off so it was time for some summit apèro – Chilean Cabernet Blend, el Parron, with some healthy nibbles.

We were soon ensconced inside the Alpage at a reserved table, with room for Kobie by the door, beers were ordered and very welcome Old Boxer arrived.

A very enjoyable lunch with much banter. Some politics, not much about Scotland. We solved a few of the world’s problems though. And Kobie at least had behaved acceptably well (I believe).

Time to face the wind, but happily the sun had come out and the wind seemed less cold.

The way back is “mostly downhill” according to Rob (see above). It does not always feel that way, still another 300m up to go. But we were well fortified and somehow I had avoided the Saynor potion bottle. And the sun was nice.

For those of you who have done this it is indeed a long way back and we strode on with fortitude.

The trail goes on and on, but after 8.3km we finally made it.

I think we were too tired for final refreshments at Marchairuz, so we simply said our farewells and left.

Before finishing I promised an insight into Rob’s thermal protection, allowing him comfortably to wear shorts in cold and windy weather.

A super day out 18.5km and 750m. A fine lunch and great company. One of our longer and more challenging outings. Well done to those who made it. Sorry for those who were not able to come.

Thanks Rob for leading us again through your kingdom.

The forecast of bad weather for our normal hiking day of Thursday necessitated a change to the plan, so Wednesday 27 August was proposed instead. The venue selected was the magnificent Cirque du Fer à Cheval at the end of the Vallée du Giffre beyond Sixt.  This drew eight enthusiastic participants and an equal number of notices of absence.

Five of us, Bill, David, Mark 2ts, Mervyn and Pete, duly assembled at the Divonne Lake parking for an 8:30 getaway to rendezvous with Mike M, Peter T, Kobie and Ross at the parking lot at the Cirque. This was achieved by 10am with Mike and his trusty co-driver Nessie arriving in a sleek dark blue Alpina somewhat later.

Unfortunately the organiser had failed to inform the two dog owners that new regulations were in place which prohibited dogs from venturing into the Reserve Naturelle itself.  This meant that the planned hike beyond the area of the valley floor up to the Bout du Monde and perhaps beyond was somewhat compromised.

In the event we all set off up the Giffre valley via Giffrenant as far as the Buvette du Prazon.

En route the threatened afternoon rains began far ahead of schedule (no thanks to MeteoFrance!) requiring the donning of multi-coloured rain gear, frequent pauses under trees for shelter and a welcome coffee stop at the buvette.

Thank you Mike for treating us. The patronne informed us of more rain to come and that the path higher up was exposed and the rock underfoot very slippery and dangerous.

This became the parting of the ways for the dog-owning duo and the rest of us – who were intent on venturing up into the Reserve Naturelle. 

See Below :  Peter’s dog blog.

Back to the exploits of the main group:  By now we were entering the area of spectacular waterfalls descending vertically hundreds of metres on both sides of this glaciated valley.

Not as dramatic as during the spring melt but impressive nonetheless.  Under continuing rain we climbed higher on a path, in parts liberally strewn with sheep shit, until reaching a large dryish cave in the cliff face under a waterfall where we took shelter and enjoyed our picnic lunch. Peter had generously offloaded pretzels and a bottle of Côtes du Rhône, which was consumed appreciatively. A surprising number of hikers/walkers including kids had made it this far on a wet Wednesday, some shod in distinctly sub-optimal footwear.

A little further on from our cave refuge we reached the Bout du Monde 1222m itself with a gate and signpost indicating destinations further and higher: Refuge de la Vogealle 1902m and thence to the Lac de la Vogealle and the Swiss border. We had neither the time nor the enthusiasm to “cross to the other side”.

The afternoon was dry and even partly sunny and the path back down to our starting point, which was over a shaky 30m passerelle and on along the other side of the river, took us two hours. So we were  a little behind our estimated meeting time with the doggers. However we couldn’t resist a celebratory beer at the cafe just above the parking area. 

Mike had already departed but Peter waited to take Ross back since Mark’s car, capacious as it is, could only seat five.  The journey home was swift until we encountered the early evening traffic on the airport to Coppet section of the autoroute.  Our thanks to Mark for once again bearing the driving burden.

Technical details:  Distance 14.5 Km, denivelation 550m,  humidity high (from external rain and internal perspiration)

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Peter’s Dog Blog

Mike Muller and Nessie with me and Kobie had to turn around at Prazon after the coffee stop. Dogs cannot enter the Reserve Naturelle which starts 2.5km up the main valley (and encompassed the area on the outside of the valley bottom from Sixt). I had checked out the trails on Outdoor Active, which had not identified the Reserve, but I had an inkling that this was the case. Mervyn’s “dogs allowed” was not going to work. No worries, as we had had a good start to the coffee stop in the woods to Prazon and by which time water was falling from the sky.

Nothing for it but to circle back down a different, but what seemed like the main tourist trail to the Plan Des Lacs Centre with its nice restaurant Chalet du Fer-à-Cheval. There were plenty of folk about, many with no rain gear.

We entered the Chalet with Kobie barking in excitement, and thus we were offered a suitable table outside, happily under large chalet eaves and which suited us perfectly. A fine glass of IPA for me, an iced tea for Mike and a superb lunch of burger, chips and local sausage ensued, with desert of chocolate mousse and cheesecake. And good and friendly service.

Mike and I had a good chat in the spectacular setting as we watched the rain falling and we felt a bit sorry for our colleagues (Lost) up at the “end of the world” and out in the heavy rain. Kobie and Nessie were well fed with chews and burger bits, indeed Kobie swallowed my chicken wrap (lunch) from the Volg in two goes – without choking.

Mike decided to head back home so Kobie and I headed up to Prazon again in the rain (and this time I put Kobie in his new yellow (Temu) raincoat which I had earlier left in the car) but the downpour eased by the time we got there.

No sign of the Lost so we headed back down the main trail to the car.

It was not long before the Lost became found and Ross and I wended our way back via Tanninges this time, only hitting the slightly heavy traffic before Coppet. A fine walk for us, and I was only marginally miffed that we missed the main hike, but the lunch and shorter hike was great compensation – and our views were stunning too -and K and I were indeed a bit tired from a 900m hike the day before. I think Mike and Nessie were happy too.

I made it 10km and 210m for us.

Eleven hikers (Andrew, Bill, Mark 2Rs, Mervyn, Nathan, Ralph, Richard, Stephen, Peter Solomon, Peter T with Kobie and Peter S as leader) met at the parking lot at the entrance to Vaulion (932m) a little after 9:30am.

The forecast for the day was sunny and hot with a high of 29 degrees. The trail started on the south side of Le Nozon stream then crossed the road to begin the ascent on the east side of the Dent de Vaulion.

After crossing a field, the path (marked by orange dots) entered the woods and up a steep incline with some unusually big steps.

Exiting the forest the hikers adopted Kobie’s strategy of hurrying over sun exposed areas to reach the next patch of shade for a water break.

A large Norway spruce provided some relief and an opportunity for Mark to take a photo of the “shady group”.

After successfully crossing an enclosed meadow marked “Taureau!” the group clambered up a steep section of rocks to reach the top of the Dent de Vaulion (1483m).

Mervyn brought out a bottle of chilled Chardonnay to better appreciate the 360 degrees view over 4, or was it five, lakes (Lac Leman, Lac de Neuchatel, Lac de Joux, Lac Brenet and ?).

There was a short descent to reach the Chalet de Dent de Vaulion for lunch under a partially functioning umbrella. The much-awaited glasses of Boxer pression were graciously passed down the table only to find out that it would take a while for the next round to arrive. This practice soon stopped when the croute aux champignons, pates du chef and mixed salads arrived. The dessert menu included ´tartes du jour’ (abricots au pommes) which were enjoyed with coffee.

The route down went past Cabane de Orny II SAC and tracked back below the Dent de Vaulion.

Although somewhat more in the shade, this path included an unwelcome incline before reaching the track down the ridge on the east side of the Dent.

Kobie and Stephen enjoyed the spring water in the only water trough along the hot and sunny descent.

A sweat drenched group of hikers and one panting dog reached the car park around 4:15pm to complete a hike of 14km, 680m denivele with a hiking time ~4.5 hours.  

The last GIN ascent of the Bellevue in Morgins was in September 2021. Memories from that occasion has meant that a repeat has been discussed many times since. Stephen was in Morgins for August 1st celebrations and so this seemed like a good occasion to ask the weather gods to be kind to facilitate the taxing straight up/straight down hike with the reward of a 360 degree panorama at the summit.

Despite heavy rain a few days earlier and cold and misty weather leading up to the planned date, July 31st started sunny with blue skies and little cloud as PeterT (+ Kobie), Mervyn, Mark2Ts, Ralph and Nathan set off from the Divonne car park. There were apologies from David and Thatcher who preferred to stay across the valley in Villars, several people claiming to be out of the country, one declination on grounds of excessive inclination and unfortunate withdrawals from RichardS and Rob on medical grounds.

Stephen could enjoy a leisurely morning and saundered down to the arranged meeting place for the 09.30h arrival. The core crew arrived ahead of schedule but the planned parking spot had been cordoned off due to Morgins’ preparation for the Fête Nationale, so some rapid arm waving was needed to redirect the cars to a suitable alternative. The group now gathered made a beeline for the local boulangerie for a coffee/tea to give time to mentally and physically prepare for the impending climb.

For those who had already been on this walk before it didn’t take long for the relentless uphill climb memories to come flooding back as we set off up the road. There was a fair amount of car traffic: a reminder that we hadn’t chosen the easiest means of ascent. However, we reached the Col de Culet base camp in good time with our backmarker taking his role seriously.

A break in the clouds with emerging Mark

Base Camp – Portes de Culet 1787m

The weather seemed to be taking a turn for the worse and even though there was no rain, the clouds were moving in and visibility was decreasing. By the time we reached the top after ca. 720m climb, admirably in under 2 hours, the panoramic tableau served only as a useful table for the refreshments and snack that people had brought.

Final push to the top and a false promise of blue skies.

Point de Bellevue (2042m) not living up to its name….. but a useful table

Cava and a Chilean Viognier served as useful lubricant to an assortment of sandwiches, crisps, nuts and some unusual dried chili mango. A toast was raised to our absent friends. A red wine was also available but was left untouched (are we becoming more sensible in our increasingly mature years?) and had to be transferred to a different rucksack, to someone with stronger knees, for the descent. Actually, knees and other bodily ailments were, as usual, a dominant subject of conversation during the day. Top athletes have been known to medicate for increased performance and this group was no exception….PeterT doing it overtly.

3 bad and 5 good knees heading down

On the way down going up.….

The clouds were starting to separate and we caught glimpses of the Dents du Midi with fresh snow on their peaks from recent days as well as the surrounding mountains. Stephen’s promise of “stunning views” was partly fulfilled. The decent down to lunch was steady and less severe than some of the climb and we arrived at the Ferrage alpage almost exactly at the booked time of 13.30h. The multitude of other clients were well into their meals and the car park indicated that most had missed out on the physical exercise pre-cursor. Beers were ordered and consumed and we relaxed in the knowledge that the hard part was over and that it was “mostly downhill” from now on. The Ferrage is not known for light meals and whereas some opted for the substantial fondue and röstis, even the light salad that Mark thought he’d ordered turned out to be sufficient for at least two. Natham probably was wisest in his choice of omelette.

Replenishing the calories

Small omelette, lots of chips.

Happy with his fondue

Yes, the Dents du Midi are over there

Desserts looked meaningful but with the prospect of tarte and biscuits at Chalet “Les Longs” we opted just for coffees before departing.

The descent in Morgins from the Ferrage always surprises tired legs and full stomachs with an uphill section and with a steep road section down to the valley before a final climb up again to “Les Longs”. These ensure that the total climb for the tour passes the 800m. Kate was waiting for us with tea, coffee and promised edibles soon prepared whilst Stephen found some of his homemade beer for those brave enough to try and not driving.

A final stroll back to the village centre to find the cars and complete the circuit. Electronic devices agreed that the total ascent was 814m, exactly the same as 4 years ago and just over 14km. Unlike Mont Blanc, the height of the Bellevue has not changed…..to be reconfirmed in 4 years’ time?

It was time to re-attempt the Parmelan, known to some as the Parmaham, others as the Parmesan. Here was the flyer :-

Dear GinHikers,
For this upcoming Thursday 17 July I am proposing to visit David’s old favourite, not the hard cheese normally grated, but – The Parmelan. The weather forecast looks to be dry. 

Le Parmelan

• Difficulty: Intermediate 
• Altitude: 1,832 m
• Ascent: 2 hours 00 min via the Grand Montoir
• Descent: 2 hours 00 min via the Petit Montoir
• Elevation Gain: 750 meters
• Round-trip: 9.0 km
• Map: IGN 3430 OT
• For viewers :- Richard found this YouTube video showing the itinerary:-
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IlvRxdUu9Hg

Parmelan is one of the must-sees of Haute-Savoie. Visible from the surroundings of Annecy, its imposing cliffs dominate and make it a panoramic viewpoint that will amaze any hiker. The ascent by the Grand Montoir is delicate, with passages exposed to heights on a narrow and steep path. Although entirely secured by chains and ramps, the passage can scare people with a fear of heights; I thus advise the use of a rope.

The route I propose describes a loop which starts at the Bois Brûlé parking lot and descends smoothly through the Petit Montoir. The plateau of Parmelan is very sculpted by erosion as chasms and fissures form the lapiaz.

Starting Point: 45.952219, 6.222312

Ascent

On the right of the parking lot, the path gets into the forest and becomes quite steep very quickly. Follow the direction of Chalet Chappuis reached in 20 minutes and already offering a beautiful view of Lake Annecy and Dents de Lanfon. Turn left to reach the junction with the road coming from La Blonnière, and continue again to the left. After a good walk, the trail gives the right to admire Parmelan’s cliffs and runs down to the bifurcation of the Petit Montoir where you take a right towards the Grand Montoir. By entering the Grand Montoir, vigilance is in order: the pathway, although secure, is still difficult.

Indeed the weather was set fair with early clouds forecast to disperse leaving a clear and sparkling day.

Richard had some fore-knowldege of a buvette on the top, which might have attracted more punters, but after receiving many apologies and excuses, some tendentious, some robust, five of us and a dog turned up at the Divonne parking at 9.10am, with Richard joining us later at the start. At the last minute MikeH pulled out for medical check reasons.

Attending : Mervyn, Nathan, Ralph, Steven (Ralph’s brother – a photographer from Blighty and who has been on previous hikes (Incl Le Salève)), me and Kobie with Richard meeting at the Parmelan parking.

As we approach the mountain a herd of cows gave an opportunity to take this shot from the car:-

As we drove up the zig zag mountain road, cars in front and behind foretold that there would already be a number there and indeed it was a pretty crammed parking lot (at 1167m) as we arrived, but there was room for us all. Clearly the Parmelan was going to be busy today, but I saw this as a good sign in that here is a hike really well worth doing.

Richard arrived shortly after us and we assembled for the task ahead, 700m of up, steady at first but getting steeper and a little tricky in the Grand Montoir. The weather was perfect and the team were in high spirits, including Kobie who was pleased to be back in the peloton.

At Chalet Chappuis the views are expansive and give only a hint of what is to come. We continued steadily up stopping for a drink at the 1500m level before the path bifurcates, Grand Montoir to the right, Petit Montoir (and our descent route) to the left.

There are notices here that the paths are dangerous in winter when the gulleys are snowed up, as when twenty five years ago or more I recall they were badly verglassed and Jill and I retreated.

And so to the crux section of the Grand Montoir and I fixed Kobie on his leash. There were a number of parties ahead of us, but all moved steadily up in good humour.

The path steepened and some exposure began to be felt. A stout wire was available for pulling on or just for balance.

We zig zagged up the steep trail, passing some, allowing others past us.

We all regrouped after the main section and took the final steep section at leisure – well almost. Soon at the col, Kobie looked for shade while we regrouped again.

A notice stated that dogs should be on a lead as the chickens thereabouts are aggressive, so I retained him on the leash. The team all looked in good shape and I think had enjoyed the mild excitement of the steep path cut in rock. So we tootled up the remaining 80m to the hut at the top – the Chalet Hôtel C.Dunant, next to the Croix de Blondet.

There were quite a number of folk at the top, enjoying the fine views. As Richard had predicted the restaurant/bar was open and we went inside to escape the sun. Ralph ordered large beers for us all which were cool and refreshing.

Suitably refreshed we set off to conquer the actual summit of the Parmelan, not far off.

It was time for lunch and we found some suitable rocks close to some shade for Kobie. Some red wine was shared and we did toast absent friends. They were missing a real classic. Kobie benefitted from Richard’s suasage and apple.

We all agreed that the fluid from Richard’s bottle was indeed excellent. Sirin Lingonberry liqueur from Finland.

Well refreshed and in a merry mood we upped sticks and set off back down to the col. An alternative but longer route traverses the lapiaz, but this was not needed today.

We had some astounding views over to the big hills, with Pointe Perćee not too far off. It was warm and Kobie, having escaped from the aggressive chickens, took time to shelter from the sun.

We stopped as Steven expressed signs of cramp, and he took on some mag tablets. This would not have been of interest for this record but for what happened shortly afterwards. We set off back down the trail towards the Petit Montoir and within 5 minutes or so at the front I heard news from the back that Steven had turned back; he had left his camera on a rock when we had stopped. Very shortly after a young lady appeared holding Steven’s camera. We thanked her profusely. (Richard believed she had looked at the photos in the camera and recognised us from crossing us in her ascent).

All that was needed was to recover Steven. We called him by phone and he was soon reunited with his beloved camera, relieved if not over the moon.

The trail descends gradually and then traverses back under the cliffs to the junction with the path up the the Grand Montoir. It was here that the kind lady gave Kobie some water from her pouch. We moseyed on down to the Chappuis Chalet where chickens were wandering among the hikers.

On the final trail Kobie took an early bath.

We were soon back at the car and rehydrating. It had been a warm hike, getting hot finally.

We said farewell to Richard and all the other fellow hikers we had been meeting on the trail, before driving back to Divonne (1 hour, no trouble) and then over to Mervyn’s for some cool beer in the garden.

A super hike in great weather, fantastic views and great comapny. I had 701 m (not 750m ?) and 11.5km (not 9km ?). My monitor also showed I had got my heart into level 5 (145 bpm and over) for 30 seconds. This rarely happens on hikes…. And Kobie slept well that night. Thanks for the fun everyone.

We had originally planned this hike 4 weeks ago on May 22 but the forecast of rain and coolth forced us to adopt plan B, a gentle walk from Morges to Ouchy.

This time the weather forecast was great: wall to wall sunshine and temperatures between 15 and 20 degrees at the top of the gorge. But there were many apologies, ranging from “going to see a man about a knee” to fear that it would be too hot for hiking. After all the apologies we were down to a planned energetic eight. Then there were more apologies the night before the hike: two complained of stomach bugs, one with too much detail, and one feeling generally tired (turned out to be Covid so almost acceptable). So we were down to the fab five: Mervyn, Peter S, Ross, 2 Marks.

We duly assembled in Divonne at 07:45, climbed into one car and set off. The early start was in case of delays getting to, and on, the autoroute. In fact it took us 15 minutes to get to the autoroute. After that the journey was relatively easy and we arrived at Noiraigue at shortly after 9:30.

The station at Noiraigue has got a new loo, all high tech with an illuminated push button for every function (further detail suppressed). It was almost worth the drive just to inspect the loo, but that was not the intended purpose of the trip so, all booted up, we set off on the climb to the top of the gorge.

We soon entered the woods and then the path climbed steadily. Those of us familiar with this hike knew that the steady incline was just to give a false sense of confidence. Pretty soon we reached Les Oeillons where the path makes an abrupt left turn and starts climbing more seriously. The path from here is called the Sentier des Quatorze Contours and, sure enough, the path zig-zags 14 times before getting to the top. Each bend is labelled with a number on a tree (is this new? I’ve not noticed these numbers before) which is a great psychological help on the climb. Also the length of successive zigs, or zags, gets shorter so by bend 7 we are well over halfway up this section. At one point we found a, not very horizontal, bench and all managed to perch on it, with difficulty.

Eventually we came out at the top with fabulous views over the gorge.

From there it was only a gentle uphill, then downhill all the way, with plenty of photo stops, till we got to the restaurant for lunch.

We arrived a La Grand Vy exactly at the reserved time of 1 o’clock and found a pleasant shady table.

Ross had brought a picnic but joined us shortly afterwards with a maths problem for the resident geek.

Essentially take any 4 digit number and rearrange the digits highest to lowest and lowest to highest. Subtract one of these from the other to give a new 4 digit number and repeat the procedure. This ultimately produces 6174. I was asked to chose 2 four digit numbers and process them in parallel. By pure chance I chose 1357 and 2468 which both generated 6174 after a single iteration but I’m assured that any other 4 digit number, without repeating digits, will eventually get there. I’ve still got to check this out.
1375 => 7531 – 1357 = 6174
2468 => 8642 – 2468 = 6174

About 14 kms hiking with 774m denivelation. A good hike in beautiful weather and well worth the drive.