Blog

A morning stroll in the Portes du Soleil

For our first Alpine outing this year a seasoned band of 4 congregated on a fine sunny day at the car park, near to the church, in Morgins (1303m) at 09.30. It also happened to be the day that Boris finally threw in the towel. There had been some predictions during an earlier walk and I think that David College might have correctly forecasted a July departure for Boris. (Whether this is valid if he stays on longer as PM……).

Several excuses had been received from absentees from visiting relatives to summer travels leaving Richard, Mervyn and Rob to take the challenge set by Stephen. This commenced by zig-zagging up towards the source of La Vieze, across the 28 rustic bridges through the woods. Along the way we passed the Cantine de They (1483m), site of annual Heren cow fights, where Stephen had helped sponsor the local, Caprice, to third position in the National “Reine des Alpes” competition in 2014.

Interesting as it might have been to linger and admire the scene, our leader suggested getting some altitude behind us before stopping for refreshments. So it was at Torvoissière (1689m) that a short first stop was permitted, a couple of the hikers opting for their first beer of the day, whilst the other two settled for luke warm tea…..all kindly sponsored by Richard.

From here the route continued steeply uphill, made more hazardous by groups of fast descending mountain bikers, illustrating that the marketing of the Portes du Soleil as a biking haven has indeed taken root. A number of these bikers were clearly of anglo-saxon origin due to the understandable expletives issued on hitting large lumps of earth in the terrain at speed. It was decided that this would not be a suitable outing for the GIN Bikers. By the time we neared the spot marked by a cross called “Portes du Soleil* (1950m) in the Portes du Soleil, there was drifting cloud, wind and threatening rain. This encouraged Mervyn to think ahead to the next ski season and take his place on the strategically positioned télésiege seat (we didn’ like to tell him that it was unattached to the télésiege). Happily, the rain didn’t materialise and Mervyn left the seat before the next ski season.

From here an undulating path gave us a great view of the emerging Dents du Midi and a panorama down to Les Crosets and across to the Dents Blanches. As we neared the outskirts of Champoussin, it became evident that timings for lunch were optimistic and the selected alpage restaurant was informed that we would be behind the planned schedule and that the punters would be hungry. Indeed, there were signs of sugar lows and unuttered “how much further?”. The former was aided by some dextrose tablets from a well-prepared participant (Rob) and the latter deflected by the leader who encouraged that a little more effort now would pay dividends in a shorter route after lunch.

So it was that we arrived at the Alpage La Chaux at about 13.30 having completed 15km and ca. 770m uphill. (There were notable differences in distance and elevation from the various electronic devices present. However, since this blogger had the most recently purchased device and this also showed the highest figures, we’ll go with that). The sun came out and the wind died down allowing us to enjoy an open air lunch with a view.

Beers were rapidly consumed and the food ordered. Unusual to find truite meuniere at altitude, so this was ordered by the fish lovers whilst the true mountain men stuck to the more heaty offerings of spare ribs and rösti La Chaux. There was some debate as to whether the ribs were spare at all. All meals were well appreciated and the restaurant noted for future outings. To help the digestion Richard had found some professionally labelled grappa in his back pack and was keen to share this around and lighten his load for the return. We duly obliged but questioned the authenticity of the labelling. As usual, we had a lively banter on a range of subjects which surprisingly did, fleetingly, touch upon Scottish independence and the impact of the departure of Boris. As usual, I can’t remember any outcomes to the discussions.

True to the leader’s word, the after lunch walk to the chair lift down was less than it could have been at a different restaurant but still necessitated a steep uphill stretch to bring our total climb for the day to ca. 870m. Everyone was happy not to have to walk down the 600m. It was a short walk from the chair lift station to the parked car. Richard, Mervyn and driver Rob headed home after a tiring but enjoyable day and Stephen returned to his chalet for R&R.

With some members (including me) not at peak fitness, I decided it was not yet time to head to the Alps, and quite a few recalcitrant members were away and/or were providing apologies and a range of stories. So we stuck to the tried and tested Jura and the St Cergue train.

The dawn rose fine with some cloudiness over the hills, at least allowing for relief from previous very hot weather. Storms were forecast for later in the day – we had had a big one the night before – so it was essential to keep to an early finish, albeit this might require some chivying for the 13km and 940m denivellation. We started at Trelex forest parking, necessitating a hike across from the Givrins station to close.

Kobie was obviously so keen to join me that I reversed an earlier decision to leave him at home and along with Mervyn we arrived at 9.20am at the start at the 600m contour and where Marktt, Markrr, Stephen and RichardS were already getting booted up. Thus 6 and a dog set off on time up towards the start of the trail at Les Allévays. This is a straight-up trail with few zigzags and we have ascended it several times before. There are several distinct stages which get progressively steeper until the 1250m level.

We made good progress with an obedient dog and hiking team. Although the temperature was pleasant we did have a Putin stylist.

The forest changes continually – in time and elevation – and we were blessed with some wonderful greenery.

This team needed little encouragement to keep the momentum up and it was at 11.45am that we crested the terrace at the Barillette restaurant at 1432m. Heck – that works out at an ascent of 370m per hour average, including several rest stops for water. Not bad for a group with an average age of 7*+.. Some of us needed to change our shirts.

We toasted absent friends, especially Philip lying in intensive care in Geneva – may he be back with us very soon.

After an excellent mountain restaurant lunch, including home made tart, coffee and digestifs, washed down with fine conversation and banter, it was time to head down to catch a train.

We were very soon back in the trees and passing by Guinfard. Realising we had some time to spare in catching the 3.02pm at St Cergue, Mark2ts produced a flask of coffee, 6 cups, a flask of whisky and some Stanley cups, and we were fêted by a log pile.

Suitably fortified (merçi Mark!) we were soon into St Cergue and across to the station. The train was on time and a restful but amusing 23 minutes later (barking dog (not Kobie) and noisy children) found us spilling out at Givrins where it was hotter, but it was only another 25 minutes and we were back at the cars at 3.50pm.

We had missed the rain – it duly arrived at about 5 pm – and had had a brilliant day out. No Ginjuries, Kobie had behaved and I believe that we all enjoyed the exercise, lunch and company. And the Jura hills are wonderful at this time of year. Thanks to attendees for being so kind to Kobie.

Next hike July 7th, Stephen will lead a circuit at Morgins (on the opposite side of the valley to last year he tells me).

Genolier to Chalet Basseruche and beyond

What a difference a day makes. Friday, June 10^th was a glorious sunny clear day….just perfect for a hike on the Jura. The forecast for Thursday, June 9^th was overcast with some possible rain. In the event, the intrepid six of Stephen, David, Richard, Mark2Rs, Bill and new recruit Rodney met at the Colonie parking in Genolier in the pouring rain. It was quite an initiation for Rodney’s first venture out with the GIN Group, Richard’s first back hiking after his injury and for Bill back in Europe for the season. Mervyn had the sense to nurse his cold/flu in protective warmth, whilst PeterT was sweltering in Corfu, Mark2Ts was still in pork pie land (gaining insight on Scottish devolution?) and Rob was chancing his luck with the weather in Lenk. Others also found suitable excuses not to test their wet weather gear.

However, spirits were not dampened and we set off up the official yellow-signed path towards St-Cergue. This being notable only due to the fact that recent hikes on the Jura seem to have avoided official tracks and, on occasion, any track at all. Stephen had stepped in for the usual leadership of PeterT and his hound and, not-knowing the paths so well, kept the group on those that are well-trodden. Consequently, good progress was made and frequent stops permitted in the rain without jeopardising the arrival time at the restaurant.

Rodney, a frequent trekker in this area, led us on the only detour of the day…..around the back of some houses in St-Cergue and up to the Basseruche.

On entering the restaurant we realised:

1. How wet and cold we were. Richard’s son (a local to St-Cergue) was summoned to bring dry clothing (just for Richard!),
2. How unnecessary the reservation was since we were the only table occupied,
3. How many bells Swiss cows seem to need.

There was a unanimous vote for fondue to help with inner warming. This was preceded by beers and a meat platter. White wine was prescribed to help digestion and the meal was rounded off with further digestive aids and a toast to absent friends. There is something about a fondue that encourages conviviality and we certainly confirmed this again. We left the restaurant with spirits renewed (in all senses) and all political discussions unresolved.

Richard wisely decided that he had done more than enough on his first outing since injury to take the short route home via the St-Cergue train. After a short deliberation, the rest of us rejected the downhill route on slippery paths and opted instead for a further climb up to La Givrine and catching the train back to Genolier from there.

Overall about 11km of walking and 700m elevation gain.

Pleasant weather was forecast for this 7 men and a dog hike up to the Fruitières de Nyon from Genolier and then on to La Givrine, descent to Sus-Châtel on the little red train. Logged on an earlier reconnaissance as 11.8 km and 800m deniv.

Attending Drew (to St Cergue 530m), Mark 2Rs, Mervyn, Rob, Stephen, Thatcher, PeterT (Leader) and Kobie the Cobberdog (Leader’s assistant).

We set off shortly after 10am in sunshine. As this was Ascension day it felt good to be ascending directly from the parking above Genolier over the railway line and up the right bank of the stream called L’Oujon. It had been very dry recently and there was not a lot of water in the stream for Kobie to cool down in.

Steady progress was made upwards in a NW direction. At one point a little black mole was found by Kobie struggling in the path in the dry leaves. Happily Kobie was on the leash and could be pulled away. Others inspected the little fellow but it appeared that we had all packed enough for lunch so we let it be.

Passing up under the train line just below La Chèvrerie we reached the Arzier to St Cergue road after several halts for breath and water.

There was some cloud about so it was not too hot as we crossed the fields and up past a lunch spot of a hike a few years back. On into woods it was soon time to say farewell to Drew at 1125m as he left to traverse across to St Cergue – he made it at exactly 12.30pm – on time for his rendezvous.

The remainder of the peloton turned right and up through pleasant pine forest on a soft bike-track meeting the main trail to the Fruitières de Nyon at 1210m. It was then a pleasant short hike up the the FdN, through a field of cows at the top. Being a holiday the tables at the top (1333m) were full of families barbecuing sausages etc, so we passed through to a lunch spot on a small grassy mound just behind and above the building.

Thatcher was trying out a new medicine – RedBull. While the rest of us tasted some excellent red from Puglia then some Californian cabernet sauvignon. There were large kites circling above us – or were they vultures ?

Finally our Scottish division brought out some rather fine Tobermory. Altogether an excellent picnic among the flowers and grasses with views over the Lake and over to the Alps and Mt Blanc.

There remained an easy hike down across open fields and then forested tracks to La Givrine where we took beers and coffees while waiting for a short while for our train. The ride down was enlivened by meeting up with Rodney Allen a friend of PeterT’s, who had been hiking alone. In future he may also join our group. We were back at the cars at 3.30 or so and home in good time for a well earned siesta.

The leader would like to thank the attendees for being so (apparently) accepting of his faithful hound.

I wandered lonely as a cloud
That floats on high o’er vales and hills,
When all at once I saw a crowd,
A host, of golden daffodils

Two days after the official ending of the winter GIN season with an excellent buffet lunch at Mervyn and Deborah’s in glorious sunshine, the GIN Hikers were sufficiently recovered from the alcoholic and gastronomic excesses to attempt an ascent of the Dôle. The weather had remained amazingly warm and sunny for this early in the year and our leader, Mark2Ts, taking over the reins from the absent PeterT, promised us a hike of about 15kms and 700m climb with lunch amongst the wild daffodils. His earlier reconnoitre had identified the exact spot at Sonnailley where he wanted to lead the 9 keen GIN Hikers for a picnic lunch with refreshments.

The group consisted of Mark2Ts, Mervyn, Mark2Rs, David, PeterD, Andrew, Rob (re-armed and poles in his rucksack), Nicolas and Stephen. The latter being the last to arrive at the new La Givrine car park, albeit exactly at the designated hour, but late enough not to park near coaches which had chosen to disgorge their mass of  day-outing school children exactly the same spot as the other parked GIN Hikers. We were delighted to welcome Nicolas to the hikers, it always being a pleasure to have new discussions and opinions to add to the usual banter. After a brief uncertainty as to whether we had all of the signed up group, our leader lead us rapidly away from the mêlée, across the fields in the direction of the Cuvaloup restaurant. For some unexplained reason, there was no outcry at the lack of a stop for an early coffee and we transitioned to the uphill part of the hike in the direction of the Dôle. Ski pistes originate from the top of the lift and in summer the grass pistes lead upward to the same. As for winter, there is a choice of difficulty and steepness. Inevitably, there are always those individuals who wish to prove themselves and opt for the more challenging routes. The GIN Hikers are no exception and a breakaway group of 3 didn’t follow the leader (who admittedly was some way behind) and chose the fast track to the top. On the way up, we passed an amazing display of daffodils, covering the hillside and dwarfing the crocus challengers. If this was a foretaste of the luncheon spot, we were in for an excellent day.

The party regrouped at the top, admiring the vista from the Dôle, even though a little haze blurred the distant Alps and a chill breezed rapidly cooled the sweat from the ascent.

From here we could see the downhill direction to the promised Wordsworth worthy golden daffodil fields and the signage promised that we would be there in 40 minutes, an ideal timing for lunch. The path was stony and uneven and separated again the group, based on foolhardiness or comfort.

At the subsequent regrouping point, the leader’s judgement was put in doubt as we were surrounded by fields of golden buttercups. Could his ability to identify flowers need perfecting? We pressed on, passing an earlier meeting point on the Swiss/French border during early COVID times where a glass was shared over a forbidden border. From here we followed a road to the plains and indeed more flowers, including the much heralded daffodils, gentians as well as the occasional orchid. Some could say that the daffodils were past their peak but that would be unkind as our leader had fulfilled his promise.

Lunch was well up to expectations with samplings of fermented products of varying strengths from several countries aiding the digestion and enhancing the conversation. Have the Irish election results increased or decreased the likelihood of Scottish independence? This story has further to run although the main proposer admitted a disillusionment to UK politics (don’t we all?). Golfers also thought that there was a business potential for a new course at Sonnailley….plenty of fairway for any wayward shots. Talking of shots, unfortunately, there will be an absence of Absinthe at future outings as Paul’s long lasting bottle has finally poured its last drop….just as we were starting to enjoy its subtle pleasures.

The saunter back to La Givrine passed uphill through a wood where the track had been blocked in several places by fallen trees.

We were soon back in the open and found ourselves back descending the pistes and arriving back at the Cuvaloup. This time there was no doubt that a stop was in order and a sizeable order of the amber fluid was made.

There was a gentle stroll back to the Givrine car park where for the first time of the day our leader was actually ahead…..the crowd like sheep having followed the front runners on a longer path.

Another truly enjoyable outing at our back door on the Jura. How lucky we are.