Author: Stephen Long

So many excuses were received for this first hike in September that it seemed for a while that only Stephen and David would participate. Admittedly, Stephen had indicated a drive to Morgins would be required and that first indications of the weather were not favourable. In the event, a final call resulted in a 50% improvement in numbers, Mark2Ts being happy to be transported by David on the way there and return via CFF.

The day dawned bright. SwissMeteo kindly readjusted its forecast to rain-free. The allotted meeting time of 09.30 at Stephen`s chalet came and went and by 09.40, the walk leader was becoming anxious. Thanks to mobile communication, he was reassured that Mark and David were indeed only 6 minutes away. They duly arrived, sheepishly admitting that David’s satnav had led him on a detour heading towards his usual destination of Villars, happily realised before his arrived there.

There was some possibility that we could have had a female participant (would this have been a first?) but Kate, with inside knowledge of the leader, decided for a less strenuous day. The intrepid 3 set off through Morgins village, up to the pas de Morgins and into France. So far gentle. From there a recently found track could have led for a near vertical ascent to above Chatel had the designer not decided to insert a few tight bends as a less arduous route. Even so this rivalled some of the usual GIN Hiking leader’s steeper routes. As it was, the GIN men were tested and reached the heights, sweated but not broken.

As we climbed about the tree line the panorama opened out with views down the valley to Abondance and across the valley to the ski areas of the Linga and Pré la Joux.

From this vantage point, a slight descent and then renewed climb within close proximity of the Super Chatel cable car station. Cable car and chair lifts were operating but seemingly with little custom. Stephen artfully cut a corner to prevent the other two hikers taking the short detour to the restaurant, having already phoned ahead to the intended hostellerie a little further up the track. Chalet Neuf was reached shortly before 13h, ahead of schedule.

The restaurant was busy. Many of the alpine work force having decided that this was a suitable location to re-fortify themselves over a long lunch break. Unfortunately, there was a lack of waitresses….one in total to be exact….who had to serve both outside and inside clients. An immediate order of beer and panache managed to fill time before the fondue and viande sechée (and the essential carafe of fendant) order was placed and eventually delivered. The sun disappeared behind cloud, the new freshness in the air requiring additional clothing layers,  allowing fondue to seem a more appropriate choice for this time of year.

We eventually left the restaurant at 14.40h, not before the GIN Hikers traditional Scottish digestive was consumed, courtesy of Mark, with the coffee. A short, but steep climb especially as blood was not focused on leg muscles, took us to the Portes de Culet, with its splendid view of the Dents du Midi.

There was a possibility there for the short, 40 minute climb to the Belleview. Rejected. However, due to the later time than anticipated,  modification was needed to the planned itinerary even though Mark said his next commitment was not until the following Tuesday. The leader took an executive decision for a direct decent on the road. This was rapidly vetoed by David, who suggested an alternative unknown grass track, albeit marked at frequent intervals with red “Swiss Peaks” flags, indicating that it probably lead somewhere. Several fit looking individuals passed us at speed going  uphill in the opposite direction. It did indeed lead us down to Morgins village eventually joining with a route more familiar to the local resident. There’s a moral here….something about being open to new ideas and not being too blinkered.

Kate was waiting for us, after her relaxed day, with welcoming tea, fruit and biscuits. Farewells were said and David and Mark drove off down the valley after what we all agreed was another excellent day’s hike in the Alps. Just as Stephen was settling in for his post-hike siesta, Kate discovered unclaimed supplies that David had left in the fridge to keep cool during the day. New farewells were exchanged half-way down the road to Monthey as David’s evening’s rations were returned in a layby.

Statistics: ca. 14.2k, 3h20m moving time, 3h eating and resting time, min. elevation 1305m, max 1784m, 647m total ascent/descent.

Sentier des Toblerones – Gland to Bassins

Chocolate doesn’t fare well on hot days, so it could have been a very sticky day given the current weather. However, the Sentiers des Toblerones from Gland Golf Club up to Bassins is mostly in very pleasant wooded shade and the earlier than normal start meant that we completed the hike in time for lunch and a subsequent siesta at home in the real heat of the day.

Summer is upon us and many of the usual GIN hikers were away or engaged with visitors. So, once again, it was a select group, this time of Stephen, Rob , Mark2Ts and Drew who subscribed to this outing. Careful planning identified that we would:

1.  not want to descend during the warmer part of the day and that we would
2.  be in need of refreshment and revitalising at the end point of our hike.

This ruled out making it to the formal end of the sentier at La Pessette (see below). Bassins, however, offered the possibility of an Auberge Communale and parking to leave a car, ready for the drive back after lunch. As it turned out, a notice on the auberge door indicated that it had decided to take a vacation and so an alternative hostellerie was selected at Le Muids, a short car ride away . At 08.30 they happily assured us that there would be a menu de jour but that what it would be was still undecided. Rob and Stephen then descended by car to meet up with Mark at the parking near the Gland Golf Club. From there we walked along the well-marked sentier towards a suitable pick up point for Drew near to his apartment in Gland (the high rise building where he lives being a significant landmark and famous for a severe fire a few years back…happily now repaired). The only glitch in the arrangement was that mobile numbers had not been exchanged but this was overcome by the resourcefulness of GIN members (and the fact that some of them leave telephone numbers in emails).

Amongst the group, knowledge of the correct route was well covered, some used to heading down and along, others ascending from a half-way up starting point, and some with just a vague sense of direction from earlier walks. All of us though re-acquainted and added to our knowledge of the sentier and covered new ground along the way. A short stop at La Cézille, at the once famous ham and gratin restaurant, now changed hands, allowed us a coffee break (all 4 black, no sugar…what a healthy lot!). From there it was a short but nonetheless meaningful last ascent to Bassins to cover the ca. 350m overall climb from Gland and 10.5 kms, arriving just before midday.

The short drive to Le Muids, in the car left at the Bassins parking, brought us to the promised set menu lunch, now finalised,  of salad, sausage and chips (or couscous) but more importantly, perhaps, to a couple of refreshing beers. We remarked on the agricultural nature of most of the clientele amongst other wide ranging discussion topics.

We agreed that the timing, length and severity of the hike had been just what was required, giving a sense of fulfilment without heat exhaustion. Nevertheless, this blogger for one, appreciated the afternoon siesta.

A morning stroll in the Portes du Soleil

For our first Alpine outing this year a seasoned band of 4 congregated on a fine sunny day at the car park, near to the church, in Morgins (1303m) at 09.30. It also happened to be the day that Boris finally threw in the towel. There had been some predictions during an earlier walk and I think that David College might have correctly forecasted a July departure for Boris. (Whether this is valid if he stays on longer as PM……).

Several excuses had been received from absentees from visiting relatives to summer travels leaving Richard, Mervyn and Rob to take the challenge set by Stephen. This commenced by zig-zagging up towards the source of La Vieze, across the 28 rustic bridges through the woods. Along the way we passed the Cantine de They (1483m), site of annual Heren cow fights, where Stephen had helped sponsor the local, Caprice, to third position in the National “Reine des Alpes” competition in 2014.

Interesting as it might have been to linger and admire the scene, our leader suggested getting some altitude behind us before stopping for refreshments. So it was at Torvoissière (1689m) that a short first stop was permitted, a couple of the hikers opting for their first beer of the day, whilst the other two settled for luke warm tea…..all kindly sponsored by Richard.

From here the route continued steeply uphill, made more hazardous by groups of fast descending mountain bikers, illustrating that the marketing of the Portes du Soleil as a biking haven has indeed taken root. A number of these bikers were clearly of anglo-saxon origin due to the understandable expletives issued on hitting large lumps of earth in the terrain at speed. It was decided that this would not be a suitable outing for the GIN Bikers. By the time we neared the spot marked by a cross called “Portes du Soleil* (1950m) in the Portes du Soleil, there was drifting cloud, wind and threatening rain. This encouraged Mervyn to think ahead to the next ski season and take his place on the strategically positioned télésiege seat (we didn’ like to tell him that it was unattached to the télésiege). Happily, the rain didn’t materialise and Mervyn left the seat before the next ski season.

From here an undulating path gave us a great view of the emerging Dents du Midi and a panorama down to Les Crosets and across to the Dents Blanches. As we neared the outskirts of Champoussin, it became evident that timings for lunch were optimistic and the selected alpage restaurant was informed that we would be behind the planned schedule and that the punters would be hungry. Indeed, there were signs of sugar lows and unuttered “how much further?”. The former was aided by some dextrose tablets from a well-prepared participant (Rob) and the latter deflected by the leader who encouraged that a little more effort now would pay dividends in a shorter route after lunch.

So it was that we arrived at the Alpage La Chaux at about 13.30 having completed 15km and ca. 770m uphill. (There were notable differences in distance and elevation from the various electronic devices present. However, since this blogger had the most recently purchased device and this also showed the highest figures, we’ll go with that). The sun came out and the wind died down allowing us to enjoy an open air lunch with a view.

Beers were rapidly consumed and the food ordered. Unusual to find truite meuniere at altitude, so this was ordered by the fish lovers whilst the true mountain men stuck to the more heaty offerings of spare ribs and rösti La Chaux. There was some debate as to whether the ribs were spare at all. All meals were well appreciated and the restaurant noted for future outings. To help the digestion Richard had found some professionally labelled grappa in his back pack and was keen to share this around and lighten his load for the return. We duly obliged but questioned the authenticity of the labelling. As usual, we had a lively banter on a range of subjects which surprisingly did, fleetingly, touch upon Scottish independence and the impact of the departure of Boris. As usual, I can’t remember any outcomes to the discussions.

True to the leader’s word, the after lunch walk to the chair lift down was less than it could have been at a different restaurant but still necessitated a steep uphill stretch to bring our total climb for the day to ca. 870m. Everyone was happy not to have to walk down the 600m. It was a short walk from the chair lift station to the parked car. Richard, Mervyn and driver Rob headed home after a tiring but enjoyable day and Stephen returned to his chalet for R&R.

Genolier to Chalet Basseruche and beyond

What a difference a day makes. Friday, June 10^th was a glorious sunny clear day….just perfect for a hike on the Jura. The forecast for Thursday, June 9^th was overcast with some possible rain. In the event, the intrepid six of Stephen, David, Richard, Mark2Rs, Bill and new recruit Rodney met at the Colonie parking in Genolier in the pouring rain. It was quite an initiation for Rodney’s first venture out with the GIN Group, Richard’s first back hiking after his injury and for Bill back in Europe for the season. Mervyn had the sense to nurse his cold/flu in protective warmth, whilst PeterT was sweltering in Corfu, Mark2Ts was still in pork pie land (gaining insight on Scottish devolution?) and Rob was chancing his luck with the weather in Lenk. Others also found suitable excuses not to test their wet weather gear.

However, spirits were not dampened and we set off up the official yellow-signed path towards St-Cergue. This being notable only due to the fact that recent hikes on the Jura seem to have avoided official tracks and, on occasion, any track at all. Stephen had stepped in for the usual leadership of PeterT and his hound and, not-knowing the paths so well, kept the group on those that are well-trodden. Consequently, good progress was made and frequent stops permitted in the rain without jeopardising the arrival time at the restaurant.

Rodney, a frequent trekker in this area, led us on the only detour of the day…..around the back of some houses in St-Cergue and up to the Basseruche.

On entering the restaurant we realised:

1. How wet and cold we were. Richard’s son (a local to St-Cergue) was summoned to bring dry clothing (just for Richard!),
2. How unnecessary the reservation was since we were the only table occupied,
3. How many bells Swiss cows seem to need.

There was a unanimous vote for fondue to help with inner warming. This was preceded by beers and a meat platter. White wine was prescribed to help digestion and the meal was rounded off with further digestive aids and a toast to absent friends. There is something about a fondue that encourages conviviality and we certainly confirmed this again. We left the restaurant with spirits renewed (in all senses) and all political discussions unresolved.

Richard wisely decided that he had done more than enough on his first outing since injury to take the short route home via the St-Cergue train. After a short deliberation, the rest of us rejected the downhill route on slippery paths and opted instead for a further climb up to La Givrine and catching the train back to Genolier from there.

Overall about 11km of walking and 700m elevation gain.

I wandered lonely as a cloud
That floats on high o’er vales and hills,
When all at once I saw a crowd,
A host, of golden daffodils

Two days after the official ending of the winter GIN season with an excellent buffet lunch at Mervyn and Deborah’s in glorious sunshine, the GIN Hikers were sufficiently recovered from the alcoholic and gastronomic excesses to attempt an ascent of the Dôle. The weather had remained amazingly warm and sunny for this early in the year and our leader, Mark2Ts, taking over the reins from the absent PeterT, promised us a hike of about 15kms and 700m climb with lunch amongst the wild daffodils. His earlier reconnoitre had identified the exact spot at Sonnailley where he wanted to lead the 9 keen GIN Hikers for a picnic lunch with refreshments.

The group consisted of Mark2Ts, Mervyn, Mark2Rs, David, PeterD, Andrew, Rob (re-armed and poles in his rucksack), Nicolas and Stephen. The latter being the last to arrive at the new La Givrine car park, albeit exactly at the designated hour, but late enough not to park near coaches which had chosen to disgorge their mass of  day-outing school children exactly the same spot as the other parked GIN Hikers. We were delighted to welcome Nicolas to the hikers, it always being a pleasure to have new discussions and opinions to add to the usual banter. After a brief uncertainty as to whether we had all of the signed up group, our leader lead us rapidly away from the mêlée, across the fields in the direction of the Cuvaloup restaurant. For some unexplained reason, there was no outcry at the lack of a stop for an early coffee and we transitioned to the uphill part of the hike in the direction of the Dôle. Ski pistes originate from the top of the lift and in summer the grass pistes lead upward to the same. As for winter, there is a choice of difficulty and steepness. Inevitably, there are always those individuals who wish to prove themselves and opt for the more challenging routes. The GIN Hikers are no exception and a breakaway group of 3 didn’t follow the leader (who admittedly was some way behind) and chose the fast track to the top. On the way up, we passed an amazing display of daffodils, covering the hillside and dwarfing the crocus challengers. If this was a foretaste of the luncheon spot, we were in for an excellent day.

The party regrouped at the top, admiring the vista from the Dôle, even though a little haze blurred the distant Alps and a chill breezed rapidly cooled the sweat from the ascent.

From here we could see the downhill direction to the promised Wordsworth worthy golden daffodil fields and the signage promised that we would be there in 40 minutes, an ideal timing for lunch. The path was stony and uneven and separated again the group, based on foolhardiness or comfort.

At the subsequent regrouping point, the leader’s judgement was put in doubt as we were surrounded by fields of golden buttercups. Could his ability to identify flowers need perfecting? We pressed on, passing an earlier meeting point on the Swiss/French border during early COVID times where a glass was shared over a forbidden border. From here we followed a road to the plains and indeed more flowers, including the much heralded daffodils, gentians as well as the occasional orchid. Some could say that the daffodils were past their peak but that would be unkind as our leader had fulfilled his promise.

Lunch was well up to expectations with samplings of fermented products of varying strengths from several countries aiding the digestion and enhancing the conversation. Have the Irish election results increased or decreased the likelihood of Scottish independence? This story has further to run although the main proposer admitted a disillusionment to UK politics (don’t we all?). Golfers also thought that there was a business potential for a new course at Sonnailley….plenty of fairway for any wayward shots. Talking of shots, unfortunately, there will be an absence of Absinthe at future outings as Paul’s long lasting bottle has finally poured its last drop….just as we were starting to enjoy its subtle pleasures.

The saunter back to La Givrine passed uphill through a wood where the track had been blocked in several places by fallen trees.

We were soon back in the open and found ourselves back descending the pistes and arriving back at the Cuvaloup. This time there was no doubt that a stop was in order and a sizeable order of the amber fluid was made.

There was a gentle stroll back to the Givrine car park where for the first time of the day our leader was actually ahead…..the crowd like sheep having followed the front runners on a longer path.

Another truly enjoyable outing at our back door on the Jura. How lucky we are.

Being late in the season there was a little concern on how the weather would hold up for a hike to 1561 meters with a 660m ascent, all was fine though. It was a beautiful and sunny day, on the cool side but excellent for hiking. This hike was in the Jura, a round trip from La Cure or was it La Coure or even La Coor, who knows but it was that place on the border with France just up from La Givrine.  Yes definitely La Cure. The planned route was to climb to Le Noirmont, down to Le Croue and onwards to L’Arziere and back to La Cure. All in all 14.4km and 660m of an ascent.

A motley crew of 8 (Peter D, Mark W, Michael H, Stephen, David C, Mervyn, Richard and Rob) met at the parking in La Cure only to find that it was time limited, so we quickly drove over into France to park nearby and proceeded to march back into Switzerland in the full gaze of the border guard …… nothing to declare.

Many had completed this hike before, often on snowshoes, although not in this direction so we all set off in good spirits and in the knowledge that all was well on a well-trodden path. The climb wasn’t too bad, although some heavy breathing was heard, but classic Jura terrain with some of which on the Noirmont ski piste. We did encounter our first snow of the season and had to occasionally duck from the ice pellets falling from the trees, but we braved on.

There was a quick stop near the top for an aperitif of grappa where the discussion was of interesting spreadsheets and alcoholism before we moved on to the top of the Noirmont for a picnic lunch where we had an excellent view of the valley and the lac des Rousses below, in France. No one on the golf course below though. There was some excellent Spanish wine with the usual digestive on offer to accompany the good cherry chocolate dessert shared by Michael.

As they say in all good sports commentary, it was however a game of two halves, with somewhat more excitement to come.

Descending towards Le Croue was tricky in that the ground was wet, deceivingly muddy, and frequently covered in slippery rocks and tree routes. Taking our time, we managed to find our way down most of it with a few minor slips all round. The viewpoints though were quite unique for the Jura as we descended into some nice pasture valleys.

Then came the unwanted excitement just short of the end of the descent where Rob slipped while holding on to a tree branch and fell not too far down the path, but with an arm still attached to the branch. As the teller of this blog so far, I can attest that it was painful, so much so that he was unable to continue hiking. So halfway through we were stuck. As a group, we decided to call in REGA air rescue mountain accident support (some of us, including Rob, were members). A truly excellent service where the helicopter support with medical assistance arrived just some 15 mins after being called in.

As the blogger, I can attest that as a result of the superior support from the GIN hikers, from REGA and the accident team in Nyon hospital, Rob and his dislocated shoulder is now on the mend. A real big thanks to the GIN hikers for all that they did to get me out of there safely.

Then there were seven hikers with eight rucksacks returning back to La Cure somewhat later than planned.