Well, it’s half-past January already, but the 2026 ski season has now got under way, notwithstanding an earlier outing to Flaine some five weeks ago.
In the event, four committed regulars – Joe, Mark, Mervyn & Stephen – signed up for what promised to be a sunny ski day in the eponymous Portes du Soleil. Others proffered the usual excuses for absence – sickness, injury, lack of fitness, travel, etc – but a ‘tonic’ winter wander to Le Vermailley scheduled for the same day might have held more appeal for some of the uncommitted. Just saying.
An early start, picking up Mark and Joe en route, saw us parked at Champéry by 09:30 and at the café at the top of the Mossettes chairlift soon after 10:00 for our coffee rendezvous with Stephen. He had been mostly resident in Morgins since Christmas and his skiing fitness soon showed as he led us, at pace, down almost empty and beautifully manciured blues and reds to Brochaux, Linderets, over to and around Plaine Dranse and finally the bottom of Lingua.
The long descent to LinguaPlaine Dranse (2)
After more than two non-stop hours of that we were ready for a much needed refuelling stop and chose the delightful auberge de montagne Chez Denis in Plaine Dranse for lunch. Old Denis has given up his day job as a shepherd for the easier(?) role of restauranteur. His somewhat brooding and taciturn mien (maybe he’s spent too long alone with just sheep) belies a very welcoming traditional venue. As we sat close to a roaring log fire sipping local beers we perused the appetising menu which comprised a tempting selection of highly calorific dishes. Stephen and I chose the Berthoud, a bowl of molten Abondance cheese with all the trimmimgs; Joe selected a poellée montagnarde (akin to a tartiflette). while Mark opted for a plain croute – for reasons that need not be divulged here. Whatsapp messages and photos were exchanged with our hiking bretheren who were ensconsed in the aforementioned Vermeilley, enjoying a return of the much-missed fondue trifon. Delicious desserts and coffee completed our feast.
Refueling stopLunch stop Chez Denis, Plaine Dranse
The afterenoon’s skiing took us back over to Linderets, Avoriaz, down the Coupe du Monde (now recassified from black to red), Arare and finally to Mossettes. Here we bade farewell to Stephen for him to return directly to Morgins whilst we remaing three descended the now distinctly softer snow on the south facing Swiss slopes to Les Crosets and thence to Col de Croix, to catch the cablecar back to the carpark.
Skiing moguls or picking up litterWhich way
We departed slightly later than planned at 16:15, but our anxieties about the rush hour motorway congestion around Lausanne and Morges this time turned out to be unwarranted, much to the relief of the driver and his long-suffering passengers.
Vital statistics for the day, according to Joe’s app (unverified):
Distance skied: 54.6km, denevilation: 10’600m, max speed: 59.6km/h, time in skiboots: 6h 45m, weather: grand beau.
Thanks for joining me and looking forward to more outings this season with more of you.
If any of us had been wondering why we chose to live in this area, today was the day that banished any doubts.
Reading the snow reports and trusting the weather forecast had led the organiser to propose a slightly earlier than usual start to the downhill season. Older readers may remember with nostalgia times during the previous millenium when skiing was possible in November or even October! Now it seems getting an outing before Christmas is a bonus.
Despite my encouragement, cajoling and blandishments just three of us, Joe, Mark & Mervyn, took the bait and rose early from fitful slumber. We met up before 08:30 in the foggy gloom of the Divonne Lake parking lot where an extremely noisy bulldozer was undertaking some seemingly random roadworks. Filling in the perpetual potholes perhaps?*
Our destination was Flaine which had partially opened its ski domain the previous weekend after good pre-season snowfall. This meant driving to Flaine itself rather than to any of the nearer satellite towns whose domains and liaisons were still closed.
A very slow journey then ensued down the motorway in thick fog and heavy traffic. An incident in one of the tunnels on the contournement delayed us further and it was not until 9:30 that we reached the border at Bardonnex and only thence the open road, direction Chamonix. At this point the sun, which was to remain with us all day, made its first very welcome appearance. There was no sign of snow on the ground until we were well up the long climb up from Cluses and the road itself was clear all the way to the central parking area in Flaine.
By 11am we were booted, ticketed and raring to go. Only the youngster had to part with any money for a day pass (special price of €37), the two super-seniors being able to ski for free in the Grand Massif! The only disadvantage was that we had to queue at the ticket office (to prove our age?) rather than being able to get a free pass online.
But that was the ONLY queue. We walked straight onto the main cable car to Grandes Platières to be greeted by the astonishing panorama of the Mt Blanc massif and the entire Western Alps. And almost no people. The promise of sun, snow and empty pistes was indeed fulfilled. How better to start the season? We cruised the long blues from top to bottom of Grandes Platières and Aup de Véran for a couple of hours, enjoying soft dry snow above 2000m and harder groomed pistes lower down.
Lunch was taken inside at La Pente à Jules where very satisfying dishes were on offer. Several restaurants were closed but this place, tucked away in the forest just above Flaine, is normally choc-a-bloc later in the season so it was a pleasure to enjoy it in quieter times.
There was still enthusiasm for some post-prandial skiing so we returned to the now softer snow and rode the chair lift to Grands Vans a couple of times before returning to the car at 4pm. An easy drive back completed a truly magnificent day out to start the season off as we hope it will continue.
Next outing December 18 (DV & WP – Deo volente and weather permitting)
*Whatever that bulldozer was doing, the potholes and puddles remain! Divonne was dark, foggy and very muddy.
This one was organised at short notice to capitalise on the unseasonably warm and clement weather. In the event eight of us were seduced by the idea of the annual amble up Le Môle, some old faithfuls and some for the first time.
Those participating: Bill, David, Mervyn, Mark 2Rs, Michael Ma, Nathan, Philip, & Ross.
Apologies for absence received from ten more, including the hiking team leader and several of his deputies. You were all missed.
The day dawned bright and we assembled at our usual muster station, the Divonne Lake parking, at 9am, all except the honorable member from Arzier who was waiting at the parking on the other side of the lake. (Note to the organiser: spell it out more clearly).
We loaded into two cars to travel the one hour journey to the start of the hike at Chez Béroud 1160m, a few kilometres beyond St Jean de Tholomé. Le Môle had been visible, a lone peak, for almost the entire journey, but from the car park was now obscured by thick forest,
Setting off from Chez Béraud
The path up starts wide and stoney and with a moderately steep and steady gradient. This warmed everyone up and we were soon shedding excess layers. At a junction we wrestled with the choice between steep and very steep. Being without the “A team” members we opted for the former and in less than an hour later we reached the isolated farm at Le Petit Môle 1534m for a photo stop. We had got tantalising glimpses on the way up through the forest of the Vallée de l’Arve far below us, but now we had reached open pastures with a clear vista of the distant alpine peaks from Mt Blanc and stretching west.
Halfway up
The broad south facing grass covered mass Le Môle now stood before us with several path options leading to the summit. They all looked steep but the ground was dry so we headed up the middle at various pace. The breakaway group reached the top, 1863m, at 12:30 and set up camp for lunch at our usual spot – the Wine Bar (see photo). Only one bottle of Côtes du Rhône between eight this time and no sign of the GIN bottle of Many Spirits; almost a temperance hike! It was quite windy but the visibility was superb and the anticipated 360° panorama did not disappoint. This really is an exceptional vantage point and banished memories of our ascent in the fog a year earlier.
The final pushBill about to catch DavidLate arrivals for lunchRoss on Le MoleView from the top … Dents du MidiView from the top … Mt BlancWine bar at the summit
The descent took us by way of the lower summit cross, along a narrow ridge and then down a steep and rocky path. There were vestiges of snow clinging to the north facing flank, which seemed incongruous in the prevailing warm conditions, but perhaps a reminder that winter is not far off. Upon reaching the Petit Môle we retraced our, by now weary, steps to Chez Béroud. We had noticed at the start a café which one of our number with sharp eyes and an optimistic outlook thought might open at noon.
Leader leaving Mt Blanc behindThe steep way down
It was by now 4pm but, perhaps……….?
Yes! It was. Beers and panachés were ordered and quickly downed by us thirsty hikers as we sat outside watching the late afternoon sun set behind the trees and reflecting on a grand day out – perhaps the last of the excellent 2025 season?
The forecast of bad weather for our normal hiking day of Thursday necessitated a change to the plan, so Wednesday 27 August was proposed instead. The venue selected was the magnificent Cirque du Fer à Cheval at the end of the Vallée du Giffre beyond Sixt. This drew eight enthusiastic participants and an equal number of notices of absence.
Five of us, Bill, David, Mark 2ts, Mervyn and Pete, duly assembled at the Divonne Lake parking for an 8:30 getaway to rendezvous with Mike M, Peter T, Kobie and Ross at the parking lot at the Cirque. This was achieved by 10am with Mike and his trusty co-driver Nessie arriving in a sleek dark blue Alpina somewhat later.
The team starts to gather
Unfortunately the organiser had failed to inform the two dog owners that new regulations were in place which prohibited dogs from venturing into the Reserve Naturelle itself. This meant that the planned hike beyond the area of the valley floor up to the Bout du Monde and perhaps beyond was somewhat compromised.
In the event we all set off up the Giffre valley via Giffrenant as far as the Buvette du Prazon.
Crossing the GiffreSpectacular views upwardsIn the forest just before the rain cameMuller Style looking into the End of the WorldMuller on the trail with mistsIt started to rain
En route the threatened afternoon rains began far ahead of schedule (no thanks to MeteoFrance!) requiring the donning of multi-coloured rain gear, frequent pauses under trees for shelter and a welcome coffee stop at the buvette.
Mike and PeterS at the coffee stopBill, David and Ross Ross, Mark and MervynParting of the ways as the Lost Team heads upwards
Thank you Mike for treating us. The patronne informed us of more rain to come and that the path higher up was exposed and the rock underfoot very slippery and dangerous.
This became the parting of the ways for the dog-owning duo and the rest of us – who were intent on venturing up into the Reserve Naturelle.
See Below : Peter’s dog blog.
Back to the exploits of the main group: By now we were entering the area of spectacular waterfalls descending vertically hundreds of metres on both sides of this glaciated valley.
Waterfall appreciation team -it’s behind you !
Not as dramatic as during the spring melt but impressive nonetheless. Under continuing rain we climbed higher on a path, in parts liberally strewn with sheep shit, until reaching a large dryish cave in the cliff face under a waterfall where we took shelter and enjoyed our picnic lunch. Peter had generously offloaded pretzels and a bottle of Côtes du Rhône, which was consumed appreciatively. A surprising number of hikers/walkers including kids had made it this far on a wet Wednesday, some shod in distinctly sub-optimal footwear.
Dry redFrom whence we came
A little further on from our cave refuge we reached the Bout du Monde 1222m itself with a gate and signpost indicating destinations further and higher: Refuge de la Vogealle 1902m and thence to the Lac de la Vogealle and the Swiss border. We had neither the time nor the enthusiasm to “cross to the other side”.
Close to the EndThe rain had stopped
The afternoon was dry and even partly sunny and the path back down to our starting point, which was over a shaky 30m passerelle and on along the other side of the river, took us two hours. So we were a little behind our estimated meeting time with the doggers. However we couldn’t resist a celebratory beer at the cafe just above the parking area.
Horseshoe Celebrations
Mike had already departed but Peter waited to take Ross back since Mark’s car, capacious as it is, could only seat five. The journey home was swift until we encountered the early evening traffic on the airport to Coppet section of the autoroute. Our thanks to Mark for once again bearing the driving burden.
Technical details: Distance 14.5 Km, denivelation 550m, humidity high (from external rain and internal perspiration)
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Peter’s Dog Blog
Mike Muller and Nessie with me and Kobie had to turn around at Prazon after the coffee stop. Dogs cannot enter the Reserve Naturelle which starts 2.5km up the main valley (and encompassed the area on the outside of the valley bottom from Sixt). I had checked out the trails on Outdoor Active, which had not identified the Reserve, but I had an inkling that this was the case. Mervyn’s “dogs allowed” was not going to work. No worries, as we had had a good start to the coffee stop in the woods to Prazon and by which time water was falling from the sky.
Dog wallowing – clear river that turned grey after the rain
Nothing for it but to circle back down a different, but what seemed like the main tourist trail to the Plan Des Lacs Centre with its nice restaurant Chalet du Fer-à-Cheval. There were plenty of folk about, many with no rain gear.
We entered the Chalet with Kobie barking in excitement, and thus we were offered a suitable table outside, happily under large chalet eaves and which suited us perfectly. A fine glass of IPA for me, an iced tea for Mike and a superb lunch of burger, chips and local sausage ensued, with desert of chocolate mousse and cheesecake. And good and friendly service.
A really nice lunch
Mike and I had a good chat in the spectacular setting as we watched the rain falling and we felt a bit sorry for our colleagues (Lost) up at the “end of the world” and out in the heavy rain. Kobie and Nessie were well fed with chews and burger bits, indeed Kobie swallowed my chicken wrap (lunch) from the Volg in two goes – without choking.
Mike decided to head back home so Kobie and I headed up to Prazon again in the rain (and this time I put Kobie in his new yellow (Temu) raincoat which I had earlier left in the car) but the downpour eased by the time we got there.
Back up the trailThe new raincoat worked but was put on too late
No sign of the Lost so we headed back down the main trail to the car.
Blue sky coming so I took off his coat. Stunning cliffs hereabouts.
It was not long before the Lost became found and Ross and I wended our way back via Tanninges this time, only hitting the slightly heavy traffic before Coppet. A fine walk for us, and I was only marginally miffed that we missed the main hike, but the lunch and shorter hike was great compensation – and our views were stunning too -and K and I were indeed a bit tired from a 900m hike the day before. I think Mike and Nessie were happy too.
Once again we were without the planning and execution skills of our Bleader, who, quite understandably chose the relative cool and tranquility of his mountain hideaway over the hassle of organising this week’s bike ride. So it fell to the peloton to come up with a plan.
This involved assembling in the relative cool of the morning at 09:30 at Everness and taking it from there. The participants were: Bill, Mark, Mervyn, Peter D, Peter T e-Paul, e-Richard. For his second outing with us, e-David B also joined, having travelled from Troinex to Coppet on the Leman Express with his bike for the princely sum of 2 CHF (Can that be right?)
Before the start
Luckily Peter D had hatched a plan and we set off to Grilly, this time by way of paved roads. There Bill, riding his thoroughbred road-racing bike, briefly left us to continue on tarmac to Gex while the rest of us rattled along the voie verte.
Gex, once again, didn’t fail to disappoint as we found not just one but five cafes closed in our abortive search for a morning coffee. These Gexois(es) really are a peculiar breed.
So, with just a water stop, it was on up to Vesancy, swiftly down to La Rippe and then the long hot push up to Bonmont. We all made it, with the e-bikers looking very self-satisfied.
Bonmont, where else?
Lunch had been reserved for midday at L’Intemporel in Founex where we all duly gathered, with Peter D arriving uncharacteristically late for his first beer of the day.
It was very pleasant to sit on the terrace in comfortable chairs under the cool of an enormous sail/awning and reflect on our morning’s exertions. Plates of fish ‘n chips, burgers and linguine were ordered and enjoyed, washed down with copious quantities of the amber fluid. Paul regaled us with more information on the remarkable life of his hero Alfred Russel Wallace and for once everyone’s favourite anti-hero, the felon-in-chief DJT, received hardly a mention.
Paul on Wallace
Wth the mercury now climbing towards the mid-30’s we all departed from Founex on our various ways home with the two Geneva residents heading first to Coppet station.
Once again a good ride, excellent conditions, enjoyable lunch and great company. I clocked 46km and 630m denivelation.
For this outing we were left without our Bleader, who for some inexplicable reason had left an essential part of his velocipede (to wit a modified pedal crank) in the UK.
To compound the dilemma, his able deputy offered an even more feeble excuse for absence – something about dog sitting. Isn’t it about time Kobie got a bike? That left the peloton to organise itself and yours truly stepped up.
In the event just four of us (Mark, Mervyn, Peter S, & Richard) assembled at the Everness at 09:30 for a morning ride, hoping to avoid the forecast rain.
After some banter about the current Tour de France a democratic(?) decision was reached to climb to Bonmont – our own Mt Ventoux – via a familiar route: Grilly, Gex, Veysancy and La Rippe.
As Richard, the sole e-biker, waited for the peddlers to reach Vesancy, the first drops of rain began. Was this the forecast 12:30 shower arriving two hours early? Or just MeteoSuisse getting it hopelessly wrong again? Oh well, we were in France, just. And while on the topic of vicissitudes, Vesancy really could do with a café for coffee now that O’Chateau no longer serves the purpose.
Donning rain gear we rode on to the foot of the shaded Bonmont climb. I for one shed a layer to avoid a personal sweaty sauna during the ascent By 11:30 we reached the summit with Peter claiming the polka dot jersey. We did check that this time he wasn’t on his e-bike, but being a doctor perhaps he has access to performance enhancing substances? Nevertheless, chapeau Peter!
Ten minutes later we had descended to Crassier and we’re sitting in the terrace of La Semplicita enjoying overdue coffees, as per Richard’s request. Or did he really want a beer but was too bashful to ask?
That indulgence cost us a subsequent drenching as the 12:30 downpour did materialise as we were passing Divonne lake.
Home in time for lunch and to reflect on our morning exertions. There had been no rain in Commugny!
I clocked 44Km and an estimated 600m dénivellation. Thanks team.
This time a different trio – Mark 2ts, St.Cergue Stephen and myself signed-up for a day in the Grand Massif starting from Samoens, where we met up shortly after 10am after an easy drive.
By 11o’clock we were coasting down towards Flaine to enjoy the still surprisingly good snow above 2000m. We weren’t alone as the half-term holidays were still attracting lots of intermediate skiers who bloated the lift queues and littered the slopes. However they seemed to head for the restaurants before noon leaving the well prepared pistes down from Grandes Platières delightfully empty. Stephen, fresh from his numerous outings in Les Rousses, but venturing into the Alps for the first time so far this year, exhibited fine form on his unforgiving GS planks.
Stephen and Mervyn spoiling a stupendous view of Mt Blanc
An al fresco mid morning coffee was followed by a late lunch at Le Blanchot. Were the portions too generous or was Mark just too exhausted even to finish his salad?
Under continuing clear sunny skies we headed back up to the top of Flaine for a final descent before covering the several kilometres back to Samoens. We set off for the return drive at 4pm after another glorious outing. Thanks guys!
Not sure in which activity category this fits – walking, dining, culture(?), or a new and separate activity – just drinking?
After yours truly had availed himself of a BuyClub voucher, back in the autumn, for a private group guided visit to the Calvinus brewery in Carouge plus beer tasting, he set about fixing a date for interested members. This proved far more difficult than he would have imagined, given the attractiveness of the offer. It wasn’t until a few weeks ago that five beer lovers were able to finally settle on a mutually agreed date – February 26th.
That evening saw four of us, Peter D, Peter T, Stephen and myself assemble at Coppet station to catch the 17:41 Leman Express to Lancy Pont Rouge, the nearest station to the brewery at 51 Route des Jeunes near La Praille. Not having these beer lovers behind a steering wheel that evening was considered a prudent decision! A fifth member, who shall remain nameless, having forgotten the date, drove to the venue, arrived late, missed most of the brewery tour, passed on the substantive tasting (he did sip them all) and drank only the non-alcoholic beer.
Calvinus, the latinisation of Jean Calvin, one of Geneva’s most famous residents, was chosen as the name of the only brewery in the canton of Geneva in 1999. Although not exactly known for his riotous or even pleasurable life-style, but instead for his strict religious teachings, Calvin was apparently experimenting with the brewing process in later life:
In Birae Predestinas
“Shortly before his death in 1564, Calvin, who was already unwell, would spend many hours cloistered in his house at rue des Chanoines in Geneva. Strange odours would emerge from his laboratory and percolate right up to the foot of the ramparts. He was even suspected by his enemies of practising alchemy – a pursuit forbidden by the Inquisition. In fact, assisted by a former Trappist monk, he was learning the art of brewing beer. His doctors had forbidden him to consume any communion wine, so terribly did its abysmal quality affect his complexion and gnaw away at his internal organs.
Alas, one fine Sunday in May, a dreadful bilious attack put a premature end to his life and his work. In memory of Calvin, we, Les Frères Papinot, have resumed his valuable research. After countless efforts, we have finally succeeded and the Calvinus beers have been born.”
Calvin on fire
Our guide for the visit, Arthur Papinot, son of one of the founders, showed us round the small brewing plant and explained the process.
Arthur explains the early stages of the processesArthur with some malt The fermentation vessels
He emphasised the attention paid to using quality raw materials – malted organic barley, hop concentrate in pellet form, yeast and spring water – and the absence of artificial preservatives, stabilisers, or pasteurisation. The ancient brewing traditions are respected, although the equipment used is stainless steel and ultra-modern. Calvinus produces about 100,000(?) litres of beer of various types annually – blonde, blanche, ambrée, IPA, noir(stout). It is sent to Appenzell for bottling and sold to restaurants and shops and at festivals in and around Geneva.
A fifth member arrives just in time for the tastingsIn the Brasserie, tasting the BlondeMark with the five beers we tasted
The tour concluded with a tasting of five of the beers produced accompanied by a cheese and cold meat platter. The consensus was that all the beers were indeed pleasant but not outstanding. The stout was characterised by its distinct coffee aroma and taste. The price of beers has gone up during the past couple of years due to the Ukraine war forcing a steep rise in the price of raw materials and energy. After a rapid expansion in the number of small artisanal breweries in Switzerland during the past decade some are now proving uneconomic and are closing. We hope Calvinus will not be amongst them and so to show our support we stayed on and sank several additional glasses.
Poor old Calvin. He never got to drink Calvinus! (Neither did Mark…(Ed.)).
8am on a rather grey drizzly morning saw four of us (Ralph, Mervyn, Mark and his grandson Henry) set off in Ralph’s comfortably commodious car in a Champéry direction, hoping to find more clement weather.
By 9:30 we were parked up and heading for the téléphérique to take us up to Planachaux and the start of our skiing – to our 10:30 rendezvous with Stephen, who was joining us from Morgins having escaped grandparenting duties for the day. Our French resident member was unable to use his on-line purchased ski ticket because seemingly he had specified Morzine (in France) rather than Champéry (in Switzerland) as his entry point into the Franco-Swiss Portes du Soleil ski domain. This was rectified by the payment of an additional supplement, but because of the queue at the guichet, also cost him two missed cable-cars and, in true GIN fashion, some mild piss-taking.
So somewhat behind schedule we set off but were soon enveloped in thick cloud as we groped our way along the ridge and down the long but gentle Abricotine run to Les Brochaux. The youth member of the team, on his first outing of the season, found that his skiing improved markedly once he’d done up his boots. Hot drinks and banter raised the spirits and with the visibility improving we headed towards Avoriaz to enjoy the Coupe du Monde and other long runs.
Lunch was taken at an old favourite, the erstwhile “soup kitchen” above Prodain whose menu now included fondue and tartiflette. After a tasty draught IPA we were soon tucking into the afore-mentioned fare plus wine and coffee for a very reasonable €40. For the information of our only €uroland dweller it’s a cash only establishment. He has now ratcheted up a debt as well as sundry fines.
Timid blue patches of sky were now turning into the forecast sunshine and we spent a pleasant afternoon playing on Arare and Fornet. The exciting off-piste was the scene of much sitting down skiing by one of our number, who complained that an old war-wound was giving him some gyp.
Returning to Switzerland, we rather sensibly opted for a descent of Chavanette by chairlift and enjoyed(?) the spectacle of numerous skiers who had clearly overestimated their ability to handle one of the most fearsome mogul fields in the Alps. Stephen left us at Les Crosets to ski back to Morgins and tired legs was the excuse for the rest of us to head back to Champéry the shortest way.
The return home in just over 1h30 was surprisingly easy and thanks to Ralph for his excellent driving and general bonhomie. Thanks too to Stephen for his guiding, to Henry for fitting in so well and lowering the average age of the group and to Mark for his customary good humour and displaying unorthodox drag-lift technique.
We were so busy enjoying ourselves no one had time to take any photos. Nor was distance or denivelation recorded, but it seemed lots.
A rather short-notice proposal for a ski day on Tuesday, to take advantage of recent good snow and very favourable weather resulted in just two of us, Joe and Mervyn, heading off in Joe’s car to the easternmost end of the canton, Les Diablerets, for a high-level adventure.
We duly arrived at the Col du Pillon, boarded the téléphérique and were quickly up at 3000m by 10:30. The sky was stunningly sunny and cloudless, the snow deep but firm, and crowds absent. After taking a few moments to absorb the view we decided to test our legs firstly on the relatively easy slopes on the top of the glacier. Indeed the T-bars were the most problematic feature, the skiing being effortless on the pristine pistes. Suitably encouraged we ventured down the magnificent Combe d’Audon, the first of several descents on this 7 km long, empty itinerary piste to Oldenalp some 1200m lower. The only disappointment was that the normally forgiving powder was crusty and uninviting.
Easy pistes to start with on the glacier
Time for a mid-morning coffee at the only open restaurant on the mountain, the recently restored Le Carnotzet at the summit, Scex Rouge. My all-time favourite watering hole, Refuge de l’Espace, nestled beside the iconic Quille du Diable is closed (for ever?) and the Cabane des Diablerets had its shutters firmly closed and no sign of a flag flying. One cannot visit Glacier 3000 without making the exhilarating Peak to Peak suspended walk, widely promoted throughout the region and the country. It was the perfect day to do so and we were rewarded with a breathtaking full 360° panorama, extending from the Jura, the cloud-covered lake, Gstaad and the Saanenland, the Bernese Oberland, the Valaisian Alps, to the Mt Blanc massif.
On the Peak to Peak walk.Joe on top of the (Vaudois) world
After more runs we took an al-fresco lunch at the cowshed at Oldenalp, now bathed in sunshine and transformed into a pop-up bar with barbecue. The menu was limited but wholesome – bratwurst mit rösti – and almost made the infuriatingly long wait worthwhile. Perhaps the cowherd needs to stick to his day job, or get some extra help. The afternoon saw us completing all the available runs and repeating the best of them. We were relieved to see that the recently constructed and infamous Black Wall was closed, requiring us to descend to the Col du Pillon by cable car, but with a clear conscience. A long 46° icy black run is not recommended at the end of the day! We were back in the car by 4:15 and home well before 6pm. All in all a great day and one to repeat, but only in sunny weather and preferably after fresh snow has fallen.
