This trip beyond the usual geographical scope of our walks was delayed until the daily deluge had abated and the pathway through this amazing series of gorges had a chance to dry out somewhat. A sudden improvement in the weather forecast triggered the organiser to copy General Eisenhower’s 5 June 1944 decision of “Let’s go…”
The Areuse Gorges lie within the Jura foothills, close to Neuchatel, and form an often-hidden area of the scenic Val-de-Travers region. Cared for by a local charity, the route follows the River Areuse for 11 kms between Noiraigue and the outskirts of either Bole or Boudry. For much of its way, it skirts the river as the Areuse meanders leisurely, followed by periods as a raging torrent forcing its way through two narrow and deeply incised canyons and white-water rafting country. Local publicity informs us that the path climbs 52 metres and descends 334 metres, with a duration of 2 hours and 43 minutes of “family friendly but moderately difficult” walking. OK – This is what faced our gallant team.
The group of six members arrived by car or train at the pretty village station in Noiraigue, fortified themselves with a coffee, managed not to be tempted to take an early morning absinthe and headed off in glorious sunshine along what was initially a straight, surfaced path alongside a babbling brook. A large gathering of lady hikers had already disappeared from sight, the only remaining sounds coming from the river itself and a variety of Skimmers and other birds. Everything changed some 30 minutes later, when we ventured into the upper of the 2 prime gorges. A sleepy stream suddenly became a cascading torrent. The pathway became a mix of jagged rocks and glutinous mud. The fun had begun.
As this expedition took the group to an area perhaps not known to some readers, more than the normal number of photos are included in this trip report. They tell a story that need not be repeated in detail in writing! We crossed several bridges, the ancient and arched one of which offers the picture postcard image of the Areuse in full fury (as it was on 28 May). The number of slippery wooden steps negotiated at times felt endless, even before our hungry band reached the halfway stage. Suddenly – and like a mirage – some houses appeared in sight. We had reached Champ du Moulin and its Hotel/Restaurant de la Truite.
All thoughts of surviving on a picnic lunch were instantly forgotten as we sat in an oasis of sunshine outside this welcoming restaurant, tucking into – you’ve guessed it – excellent trout, our throats lubricated by Neuchâteloise wine. Then, the second half of our trek was to be faced. This path had almost survived the ravages of a long winter followed by a very wet spring. The mud seemed even more glutinous, the steps steeper and the rocks sharper.
The result was the stunning sight of a torrent thundering almost below our feet as it fought its way through the second gorge. Minor deterrents were all taken in good spirit, no walker tripping or slipping but a small number of us found ourselves inadvertently crossing the river and following a surfaced road for a while. Mobile phones soon brought us back in line! As suddenly as the second gorge had started, it ended, and a signpost pointed our group towards Bole. Little did your scribe know that this track led steeply up to road level via a good 100 slippery wooden steps followed by an even longer walk to Bole station. The short train journey back to Noiraigue came as a welcome chance to recharge our energy batteries.
Well – Was it worth the 100 kms+ journey from our homes? The conclusion of this group was a resounding YES and a recommendation that some future walks be conducted in other areas of natural beauty or of specific historic etc interest. Long summer days and an easing of Covid-19 restrictions offer possibilities as long as we avoid exceedingly popular tourist destinations during “Le Saison”.
Thinking caps on, please…..
Here are some of the photos. The full set is to be found at this link
