Author and Leader : Mark Warren
Impeccable logistical cooperation enabled today’s nine hikers (Peter Taylor, Mervyn Powell, Larry French, David Colledge, Richard Saynor, Bill Westermeier, Peter Strebel (new member – welcome Peter!), Ralph Wares and Mark Warren) to leave the rendezvous point at the Gare de Noiraigue on time. The day was sunny, sun hats made their appearance and the forecast (not the one I read – Ed. PT) was good to the extent that some of our party didn’t see the necessity to bring any wet weather gear.
The trail up to the Creux de Van is straight forward and not particularly difficult, but it does go up some 750 metres which is a challenge in itself.
After leaving the village, there is a steady incline for longer than one thinks, even for those who know this trail well, before a left turn at the start of the famous “sentier des 14 contours”. This path meanders up the slope in serpentines with frequent great views of the rock basin; trees at each turn are numbered and after number 14, we found ourselves at the top with its magnificent view over the cliffs of the Creux de Van, including a recent rockfall, and a welcome glass of champagne in celebration of Richard’s birthday.
We then started to hear thunder in the distance and feel the odd drop of rain. The prudent hikers with rain gear put it on while the others accelerated for the 45 minutes’ walk to the restaurant, La Grand Vy – yes, La Grand Vy and not La Grande Vy! No one could explain that grammatical oddity.
Those suitably protected hikers took time to saunter round the ridge, looking at the views, watching a passing ibex and noticing others hikers sheltering under trees, some with picnics. Some told us in a despairing tone that the restaurants were full, so it was just as well that we had a reservation.
The restaurant was cosy and had good local mountain fare which was washed down with the odd beer or glass of wine. Several took the pudding option of an ice cream flavoured with the local eau de vie – absinthe. Richard’s famous bottle contained an excellent Armenian cognac. We toasted absent friends, especially the GINjured.
The rain was falling quite heavily after lunch, but there is no such thing as bad weather, just inappropriate clothing. Which was exactly the problem for some of our party who had over relied on the weather forecast (or read the wrong one) as some three or four did not have rain gear. Our experienced hiking group organiser came to the rescue for two as he had three sets of rain gear with him. As a result, he himself wore a bright green poncho, which earned him the nickname of the Jolly Green Giant.
Even though the trail back to the Gare was easier and shorter than the one up, there were some slippery parts that challenged some of our group who realised their age a little bit as young children overtook them hopping, skipping and jumping. As we approached Noiraigue, the rain stopped.
A lovely hike, already a favourite for some and newly discovered for others.
Distance 14 kms; height difference 750m.